Neil MAC
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Cheers Pete I will give that a check when I can. I took the car out with a passenger and some extra ballast in the boot (rockery now looking less rocky) the back seems to have settled as a result. I think it needs a few more miles. Car definitely feels better but I haven`t pushed it yet. I am thinking for the meantime I will run it and see how it goes before putting a spacer in. Hoping to take it to Europe in July so it will be loaded up then anyway (spare parts). Like Stevegt6 the wheels are virtually vertical with the weight in the boot, with two passengers in as well it has a slight negative camber. This is just by sight looking at the car from the back. Not an exact science, but on the principal that if it at least looks right then I should be on the right track. Neil
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Thanks, due to work I`ve not had a chance to try it with people in, hopefully tomorrow I will be able to take it for a run and see if a bit of a load has the desired effect. I will also try to work out the degree of camber to see what you think. I will post with the results. Cheers Neil
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New spring and roll bar fitted however I now have a slight positive camber on the rear wheels. I`m going to run the car to see if it settles, which I hope it does. However how much do the lowering blocks alter the camber if I find I need to fit one? Thanks Neil
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Yes did realise that will be the next job. Got them both as a kit from Paddocks to do the conversion from a saggy fixed spring. Thanks for the advice. Neil.
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Baz, Thanks for the links really helpful. Neil
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Thanks guys it was part of the original spring which eventually came out with a bit of persuasion, Just didn`t want to force it until I knew what it was. However on the swing spring should the lug under the1 spring sit completely in the hole on the top of the diff? At the moment it is sitting proud. Thanks
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Can any one help? I am replacing the rear spring on my Mk3 Spitfire from a 7leaf to a swing spring. I have removed the old spring taking out the six studs however there is a seventh stud in the middle that runs through the old spring that will not come out of the diff. Its turning but won`t come out and it does not appear to have any thread on it so I don`t know what is holding it to the diff. Any suggestions as I can`t fit the new spring with it there. Thanks
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Thanks for the advice The car was running fine before winter think I will try some adative in the petrol and maybe sort the cylinder head "eventually" whenever it starts actually causing problems. Just out of interest thougb can anyone recomend anywhere to actually get the head done I'm in Warrington but would travel to a recommended engineer. Neil
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Thanks for the replys I don't do that many miles 1000 -2000 a year but this year planning a big trip around Europe. Saw the wheeler dealers where they did the head thats one of the reasons I was after your views. I have no plans to sell the car so any work I do or cash I spend will be to my benefit. I haven't had to adjust the tappets other than after putting the head back on a few years ago. Neil
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Whats the general thoughts of getting the cylinder head converted from unleaded to leaded. Is it worth it? has anybody had it done? If so where and how much also was there any difference in performance? Had my cylinder head off about two years ago and noticed that the valve seats were worn and some of the valves were sat lower than the others, however when I re-ground them they did sit well and the car then performed well on the RBRR. Any advice and recomendations welcome, at the moment I am leaning to the prospect of getting the cylinder head converted to unleaded (thinking long term). Would also rather go to some one recomended Thanks Neil
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Craig would that be my Spitty on the back of that low loader?? ;) I do keep on top of the trunnions they are frequently well oiled (the lack of paint under the wheel arch gives away the history) By the way the spits still looking and running great and being loved. :) :) Neil MAC