Roger Keys

No real problems for us im pleased to say. 16 runs completed now.

Though couldnt adjust the heater from the controls on the stag. Have to reach under the dash to adjust the valve directly. And avoid getting burnt doing it.

The cable clip had broken prior to event. Those who have a stag may realise that the car first part into a stag shell is that clip!!!! Still got that particular job to look forward to.

3 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Could you not insist that any car being used for the RBRR has a valid MoT certificate? 
 

Given the fairly extreme real world test they are out through it seems like a sensible ask?  

But the headlight check will be conducted on an unladen car. By the time it rocks up at the start, it will be pointing at the sky.

The reality is, people need to buy decent LED lights if they are going to move away from stock. Theres heaps of crap on the market. But the people who dont bother to find out what works, likely wont try them out before the event, check the beam pattern or anything else.

Its hardly rocket science. Prep car, load car, find garage door at night, Turn on lights. Adjust accordingly.

Yes the TR3 was exceptionally bad. 

As per title, i note that this has disappeared. Anyone know if its likely to come back?

Shame we cant do it this year. Have fun 🙂

9 hours ago, JohnD said:

But not for Classic Le Mans!

At present it seems that all France requires is that you sign a form declaring that "On my honour, I have not had symptoms of Covid in the last 48 hours or have been in contact with a case in a fortnight"     How delightfully old-fashioned!

John

Where are you finding that info? Not what the government (ours) website says.

Germany looks to be the problem country. More than 180 days since last injection then you cant come in.

5 hours ago, Chriss said:

It is the perception of politicians and the public is the problem we need to address as a club.

 

In a nutshell.

It is, really, an information/propaganda war. The "other side" has almost unlimited resources. This wont be an easy battle.

I see you posted a pic of the best car 🙂

12 hours ago, thescrapman said:

So if I pay for trees to be planted, can I go and chop them down in a few years time when I need some more firewood as the price of oil will have gone through the roof?

I have paid for them after all, so they must be mine. Though we would need to be told where they are.

Just a thought.

I might just plant some trees in my own garden instead.

Can you can wait 30 years for your firewood though?

On 04/02/2022 at 09:44, Dannyb said:

I'm all in agreement with that, it's just the cynic in me that wonders how much of the money is actually passed on. As like some large charities, administration costs are taken out and very little goes to the front line. 

Danny

Thing is, its never as simple as it seems. If we assume all the money does go into planting trees, and, frankly, dont believe a word of it, thats just being considered in isolation.

Right now thousands of acres of welsh farmland is being sucked up by corporates so they can tick the box, say they are green, offset their emmosions. Thousands of acres of farmland being lost from food production, and fundamentally changing their local economy and way of life. Some serious unhappiness there.

By doing this, we are adding to that problem.

3 hours ago, carlton x said:

Yes after doing some research 

Assuming the oil pressure climbs with RPM, unless the relief valve is sticking open, it seems likely the bearings are worn. Depending on crank wear, you might be OK changing the shells in situ, but still major work. 

I assume you changed the oil pump because you had low oil pressure?

Its not viable at our end of the market. Never has been.

You dont do it for its "viability".

While i wait for all my engine bits to come back, i thought id have a stab at the carbs. They work fine, but look pretty sorry for themselves.

Only one solution. Aqua blasting. However, that does mean a total strip down.

Because i have no idea what im doing, im doing one at a time. Sort of. 

All the exterior plated parts have been removed from both and again, off to the platers.

The first carb was then completely stripped.

Before and after pics,

Next job is to reassemble.

Not a great deal of action lately but some at least.

Decided to replace the block on the engine to get over the bore scoring, as i dont want to go oversize pistons, rebalance etc, etc.

So got an orginal size unlinered 1850 block. This is at the machine shop now. Its been acid dipped and then bored out. Should have it back next week.

While that was away, ive stripped pretty much everythinmg else off the engine.

All the bolts, brackets etc have gone to the platers from zinc plating.

Cleaned up this pistons in the aqua blaster. Came up like brand new.

And also managed to get a set of NOS piston rings too. Which im most pleased about.

Yes. Tax free is related solely to age.

3 hours ago, richard w said:

2017 was my car, 2019 Roger's Stag so 2022 will be my turn again. Mk1 but with 2.5 power and MOD box should be a bit more capable this time!

Something about a mk1 thats just so right for this event...................

6 hours ago, Beans said:

My car of choice again! 5 completed 10CR's and one DNF due to a snapped prop shaft 🥴

How does one snap a prop?????

On 14/11/2021 at 00:02, Topic63 said:

Hi Roger,

I’ve fitted Floflex bushes to previous cars and never had any issues, I don’t think the colour has anything to do with the quality as they can be any colour the manufacturer chooses. I can only assume you may have bought ‘orange’ ones in the past that were not up to the task?

Floflex are a UK manufacturer based in Wrexham (I think) and as many other suppliers they do sell on eBay but you can deal directly if you so choose.

Many different suppliers will choose a particular colour, such as red, blue or black to identify their product, Floflex choose orange but that does not in itself point to a poor product.

I wasnt suggesting the colour dictated the performance. Each manufacturer will use a compound(s) for their bushes. Not all compounds are created equal. Not by a long way.

Just that most use a specific colour from a marketing/identification angle.

Having seen some durability testing of multiple brands of poly bushes, that they are not equal was abundantly clear.

16 hours ago, Beans said:

You have clearly never owned a TR7 🤪
They are famous for shredding the rear lower link bushes 🥴
Good quality poly bushes has eliminated that problem!

But the poly ones are not voided like the OE ones are they?

Am i correct in saying these are the same as dolomite? Rather than poly, which, depending on whose it is and duro, will limit movement a bit, the old trick was to use the OE rubber unvoided one from the other end of the arm. 

On 14/11/2021 at 00:14, Ed H said:

For poly bushes, neither color nor cost is necessarily a good indicator of quality.  A much more important parameter is the type and durometer of the material, which is often not mentioned at all in the marketing copy.  "Poly" could mean polyurethane, but maybe not.

Ed

Absolutley. Hence my post and list of manufacturers.

The colour simply allows easy identification of who makes it (in some cases).

Do NOT buy the cheap orange crap that seems to be everywhere. 

Superflex (witor) superpro or whiteline if you want stuff that works and lasts.

Personally, there are situations where i prefer rubber. I.e. stag/saloon rear subframe/crossmemer mounts. Being a bit sad, i spend my time looking for NOS bushes. They are out there.

27 minutes ago, Topic63 said:

Nothing wrong with Gaz as non-standard dampers, it’s just the fact that OEM style dampers are no longer available.

So rather than pay £50/£70 for a pair of adequate dampers, you are forced to pay £150+ for something you didn’t (given a choice) want 🤷‍♂️

 

Its just economics. As slimboyfat said at the beginning, the market is too small/niche to be able to make a production shock.

Gaz are, effectively hand building. Thats relected in the cost.

As tim suggested, no downside to CV jonted drive shafts.

Im not sure why you think that there may be an issue with the anti vibration staps? Never had an issue on mine with similar power and more torque. The torque however did trash 4 diffs in short order.

Have you tried canleys?

6 hours ago, thescrapman said:

You need to be quick with some of them, it looks like it is all the "reference" parts that were hoarded years ago for possible later retooling, so just 1 or 2 of everything. 

Andwhen they are gone they are gone.

Yep. Need to be quick!