Roger Keys

23 hours ago, Rubce said:

Super looking car. Are you keeping the hardtop on for the RBRR?

Yes, definitely. Cuts down road noise massively compared to soft top.

Mind you, the zip is busted on the soft top, so little in the way of options!

On 09/09/2021 at 17:08, Tim Bancroft said:

At the moment, we are at 130 starters, very similar to 2018...amazing amount of withdrawals in recent weeks...quite disappointing! Still 130 is a great amount!

Dont be disappointed. Its a great achievement.

Bigger isnt always better.

Ready to go 🙂

My 13th or 14th RBRR, but only the stags second RBRR.

3 hours ago, Ian Perry said:

Hi Roger,

That's certainly different from my recollection - one of the things that stuck in my mind about the rules *at that time* was the conviction that you COULD re-shell a car, though everything else would have to be original. It seemed to make sense, to me at least!

You may well be right though - there's plenty of wine flowed under the bridge since then!

It's academic though (as far as this conversation is concerned) and I never wanted/needed to re-shell any of my cars, so never put that aspect to the test!  

Sadly, i am right. The 8 point rule has remained unchanged since its inception. Plenty of myths about it though.

17 hours ago, Ian Perry said:

As a bit of a red herring, sorry... 🙂 I used to have a Toledo and (way before they started to become rare, and such sacrilege would be frowned upon now) I converted it to a Sprint drivetrain (and built it as a rally car).

The system at the time for retaining the original registration etc was that each element of the car had a "points value" and you had to achieve a certain score to retain the registration/identity. The scoring system was designed so that you could re-shell the car, but would have to transfer everything else from the original car, to retain the original registration. Alternatively if you kept the shell and (IIRC) the interior trim, you could change the engine, gearbox, back axle, suspension and brakes 🙂 . Obviously by changing to the Sprint drivetrain I was changing pretty much all of that... and as the rally car prep progressed, somehow all the interior came out too!!

 

The points system is still the same and has never changed. And nothing to do with tax or MOT exemption status.

However, there is no way that you can "reshell" a car unless it is a "NEW" shell, and be proven to be so. You lose too many points, and the DVLA's position on this is clear, if you do so, you have destroyed the identity of the car.

Extract from DVLA website:

Keep the original registration number

Your vehicle must have 8 or more points from the table below if you want to keep the original registration number. 5 of these points must come from having the original or new and unmodified chassis, monocoque bodyshell or frame.

Just reading the blurb on the EJ ward website which prompted me to go and look at the car, Being a mk1, its different. Looks to have an external voltage reg. At least thats what i assume this is?

On 19/08/2021 at 13:22, FloydP said:

I gave up on the standard crap ones and put a kubota digger one on instead and it was easier to move it up high whilst I was at it as the mounting was different anyway.

Ones assumes you did this yourself?

Im rather surprised there isnt a kit you can buy to do it. EJward do a kit but it perpetuates the use of refurbed lucas junk.

If a kit was available, id buy it this evening.

I really dont have time to be engineering one myself.

On 19/08/2021 at 13:40, Tim Bancroft said:

Roger,

 

I'd change it, if it fails it will be in the middle of the night and it will be raining cats and dogs.

 

If i knew its replacement would be any good, i would. But as we know with current aftermarket parts, thats by no means certain!

Pondering changing the alternator on the stag. Ign light still comes on at tickover sometimes.

Been like it for a trip to scotland, and border raiders. Not got worse. Loath to change for a "new" one. I have one, but given the standard of repair these days, im not sure. Dont want to be another RBRR statistic!

Its in its original location, so no easy swap at the side of the road 😞

Other than that, ive a screw to put in the parcel shelf that fell out on brder raiders, no doubt due to some, err, serious potholes. Like most of the road missing!

This is what you need. Injector bosses already there.

I disagree. I think it makes it look like nothing is happening as the limited traffic is spread out further.  There simply isnt, nor is it likely to be enough. There is also overlap between subjects. There are sections there i probably wont look in. So that potential conversation/exchange of knowledge and ideas is lost.

We just end up like the old website.

4 hours ago, chris2 said:

 

I have got a block like that. The circlip was missing i only remove clyhead to find grooves on number 1. The block was able to rebored.

Chris      

My thought, initially was that, and gudgeon pin had marked it. But the marks are too far apart for it to be that. Its odd.

Not much progress to report. Continuing work on the house after a flood, and a paying mustang job, getting in the way.

However, with the engine out, ive popped off the cylinder head to investigate the "running on 3 cylinders" issue.

Wasnt really conclusive so far. Its certainly not a "mechanical" fault with the engine. I was expecting a valve issue on no1, but they are fine.

What i did find was a double score mark up the side of no1 bore. Its not deep, and ceretainly isnt the source of the misfire, but it is very odd. The oil control rings have worn to the grooves. So, im going to need at least one cylinders worth of of std size oil control rings.

The odd thing is, the head is immaculate internally. Its done next to no mileage since being fitted. I did this back in early 90's.

However, this wear on the rings logically must have happened over a longer time.

I either need another std size block, or i just leave it. It was discussed with others a while back, but since then, ive concluded (my memory is hopeless) that the modified head was put on the existing engine in the car. Doing so would mean the piston would be at TDC during the swap. So if it was scored back then already, id never have known. Which explains the wear on the oil control rings, but a virtually as new top end!

So as a minimum i need some oil control rings. Dont want aftermarket, just some good originals.

The cylinder head shows a significant difference in mixture between the front 2 and rear 2 cylinders. That makes no sense either as its on webers, set up the same, or should be. I note that the vac take off is on no2 runner rather than shared across all 4 like a standard intake? Might this be an issue?

Took the axle off too. That needs some new oil seals. And painting. 

Thats it for now

I just need to get the stag out of storage first. Will worry about what to do when ive done that.

On 10/05/2021 at 21:49, Tim Bancroft said:

More pics.

NOS wings and repairs to nose cone and lower valence.

Looking good tim. Swift work too!

Errr, nothing. Car still in storage.

If it looks like physical exertion might be required, use a fork lift!

Here's a couple if the engine box and subframe on the floor.

If that pics anything to go by, that's coming from behind. Will be significantly more than is visible. It is possible to do localised repairs, but it's blending on the paint that's the issue. Very difficult for it not to be visible to some extent. If you are happy with slight difference, get it done. It can only get worse.

51 minutes ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Roger you are teasing us with your workshop...it looks like a fantastic place to work on old Triumphs! Lucky man.

You don't want to know the rent, trust me. I can only do it as the company effectively pays for it. Need to crack on while I have it!

Ok, I'll be first 😋.

I have just started on my sprint's resurrection. For those not familiar with it, bought it in 1990, modified it and rebuilt it several times. Final spec was fully built engine, ported head, twin 45's STR91 can etc. 195 bhp. Which was nice.

It did, I think, five RBRR's.

In 2002 I'd got a bit bored with it and sold it. Bizzarely to a guy I knew from back in the early 90's.

I never saw it again until 2013 when Dave Kent sent me a link to eBay with it for sale. Back with the same chap, but sold in the interim, it was now broken, and a bit more rusty. Ran on three cylinders. So I bought it back😊😊.

It's been stored ever since. But I'm back on it now.

Here is a pic ( I hope) of the engine and box coming out.

Both my stags have been like this. Swapped suspension left to right, fitted different suspension etc. Only logical conclusion is the shell is not true.

The second of the 2 cars defintely not had an damage. Ended up fitting and additional poly insulator on right rear with the lip cut off. Problem fixed!

The regulations document state that the car must have a valid MOT. Is this actually the case, or just an error copied over from previous?

The revs rising on there own suggests an air leak. To the point its so lean it stops. Whislt changing the timing could do the same, ir rise in revs, i dont see why that would stop it unless it changed so much. I dont really see that as a credible failure mode.

Wards do an extension loom i believe.