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Paul64

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  1. I did this last year when I changed my driveshafts on the MK1 - easy to fit with the kit provided and will be there forever. Paul
  2. Paul64

    Furflex

    Hi George, Many thanks, will give them a bell and see what they are offering. Paul
  3. Paul64

    Furflex

    Just checking out a few options on line - Woolies version seems to be steel internally whilst BAS in Wales are rubber tubed - it's really not a cost issue on something like this, more that I want something that fits well all round the frame with the colour to match the original, which appears to have little in the way of steel internally compared to some of the photos on Woolies website for example... It's one of the first things people see when they open the door so it has to be right!! Paul
  4. Paul64

    Furflex

    Hi Michael, Thanks for that - I thought that might be the best way for the corners but didn't think about taking the steel section away for the other bits. Seems a shame when the old one seems to fit everywhere in one piece - practice makes perfect on the production line I guess...! Paul
  5. Paul64

    Furflex

    I am looking at replacing the Furflex around the door openings before the summer season starts and have a piece of new left from another job handy so thought I'd give it a go around the more 'bent' parts of the frame.  Not the easiest thing to fit and indeed, not really secure - even after re-crushing it together with pliers after fitting. Are there different types of this strip, perhaps more specific to the car as I don't want to get the wrong stuff - I see CW has some for sale but he hasn't got the correct colour on his site for my car... The original product seems more flexible than the new one I have, especially around the 90 degree corners and more able to cope with the thicker sections at the base of the windows. If anyone has any experience on this, it would be good to hear back with any hints!
  6. I had leaks from an ally one I bought - turns out the mating surfaces weren't a good match at all, especially at the corners.  Gave up in the end, chucked it away and went back to the original after it was sand blasted and powder coated. No leaks and looking good!   Paul    
  7. Thanks - will keep it in mind for the rebuild - where are you based and how much are they? Paul
  8. Hi Alec, Great, thanks for that - just wanted to be sure before hitting it properly....! Paul
  9. So, I have removed the head of the PI and, have the overhaul completed with new valves, guides and seats with the help of CW and Howards at his suggestion. The original had lost some compression and a vacuum test on the three throttle bodies seemed to indicate some valve guide wear too. For the rebuild, I ordered a new cam and gear/chain set from Chris, his 3003 spec item but at his advice, it's being made from a blank rather than regrinding another one. Seemingly, he's had up to 25% failure rates from regrinds, which is not good! Anyway, there's a couple of weeks to wait now for the next delivery so I started on the other bits. Rocker shaft - I attempted to strip this down after work one night this week thinking it would be a quick job; there's a bit of play in some of the rockers on the shaft and, some wear generally on the pushrod pads. I wanted to get into it to clean out the shaft initially and replace what was necessary however, without resorting to hammers and punches, it's all pretty tightly on the shaft - the pedestals will need to be tapped / punched off after the split pin and locking screw have been removed - is this normal I wonder? The Haynes book seems to imply it's all a sliding fit...! Paul
  10. Paul64

    exhaust flame

    Indeed, 1 gallon for a gallon burned is what I heard too... I suppose exhaust corrosion might be getting less now with the lower and lower sulphur levels in the fuel - I think it's sulphurous acid that's formed towards the end of the exhaust as the gas cools enough to allow the moisture to condense - not ideal! Paul
  11. I had cause to use these guys earlier this year - great service, really helpful and when the wheel came back, it was superb, http://www.pristinealloywheels.co.uk/ They charged 60 quid I think to refinish a polished alloy wheel and I wouldn't hesitate to give them more work. Paul
  12. I've used The Wheel Specialist a few times and always had excellent results. I use the Manchester branch but there's a few around the country: http://www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk/ Quick, good price and can do all the fancy finishes like black chrome if you want.... Paul
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