65redspit

If you decide to go the spitfire 1500 route, let me know, I can send you links to the parts I bought …

12 minutes ago, Firefly said:

I made up this tool in the photo, gave it away several years ago, and lost track of it, otherwise you cold have had it. The threaded parts I think were 7/8” fine. It took 2 days on each head and don`t think I would have got them off with the engine in the car. Once you have managed to get the head about 12mm clear of the block, very carefully hacksaw thro` the studs. They will probably need pressing out of the head, but what`s left in the block usually comes out easily. Good luck.

Ingenious!!!

4 hours ago, drofgum said:

Hi,

Increasing the master cylinder bore will make the pedal travel less, but you pay the price with a harder pedal. The larger piston displaces more fluid. But the advantage of a small master cylinder is that the same pressure on the smaller piston area makes the total force on the master cylinder piston less. The pistons at the wheels all see the same pressure as the master cylinder piston unless the system is boosted. If the wheels have double the piston area they have double the force on them, but only move half as far. The area ratio is normally much more than 2:1. This is why proper adjustment of drum brakes is so important. It minimizes lost motion before the shoes reach the drum.

Cheers,

Paul

Absolutely true, the bore size of the master cylinder determines the pressure achieved however, if you upgrade to 4-piston callipers, you also have to factor in the travel length of the piston in the master cylinder to match the additional pistons in the calipers.

A 1” master cylinder creates 127.4 PSI as compared to a 7/8” master cylinder which is 166.7 PSI based on your foot making 100 pounds of force at the master cylinder. 

The smaller cylinder makes more pressure but the smaller bore will move less fluid. More travel will be needed to make up for the reduction in fluid moved by a 7/8” master cylinder as compared to the larger 1”

Totally agree re tyres and road adhesion !! Also with sticking with drums on the rear… 

I’ve got the princess calipers and discs on my sprint, I also went up slightly on the master cyl but as you rightly point out it’s all about the larger swept area and heat dissipation…

11 hours ago, Clive said:

I suspect finding a disc brake conversion will be easier, and is probably a well trodden path. Rear brakes will be fine as they are, the car is light and the last thing you want/need is too much braking at the rear.

One of the biggest issues is friction material. The usual "white box" (or stuff bearing the name of a company that used to make quality stuff) is not very good at all. I have found NOS asbestos pads/shoes to be much much better. Mintex 1144 are probably as close as you can get to those but in asbestos free material. 

Of course, it is well worth trying the brakes as they are, but checked over, adjusted and so on. But I do remember my first car (avenger) and that had drums all round. I experienced brake fade many times, but always when I was enthusiastic on some long downhill twisty sections of roads.

A used disc brake setup off a herald or spitfire should not be too expensive, assuming it is a fairly simple swap.

It’s so cheap it’s almost worth buying the stuff new…

I upgraded my 1147 spitfire to 1500 brakes which work well even on the track … I have no idea if this would work for you but, for me, the upgrade process was an easy fix…

It’s not an Accuspark … if that’s of any help !

I think people buying new vehicles should have to do the same to offset the carbon used in producing the things….

Hmmm might take some cleaning !!

Wednesday is drive it round Castle Coombe Circuit day 😜

Hi Wendy, I used JE pistons in my rebuild. They were light and balanced up really well 👍🏻

(Turn with the plugs out)

Before spinning it on the starter, try and turn it over by hand using a large spanner/socket or adjustable on the crank pulley bolt… if the oil in the bearings has deteriorated this will help prevent any damage

Then we shall agree to differ !!

On 15/04/2024 at 18:59, johnny123 said:

I have an Herald 13/60 with an engine number DG28801HE could any one tell me what engine is in it as the distributor is a strange one.

The HE stands for High Efficiency 

The E stands for Efficiency

Ouch !!!

Co not coal tits after all …

18 hours ago, Velocita Rosso said:

For my own peace of mind, I contacted the Certificat.air.gouvr.france, direct and this is the response I received 

contact@certificat-air.gouv.fr

Good morning,

Your vehicle is old: it falls under the less strict anti-pollution standards which result in more polluting technologies. It is not eligible for a certificate.

 

Cordialement,

Le service de délivrance des certificats qualité de l'air.

www.Certificat-air.gouv.fr

How very French !! Our locals contacted the Prefecture when our local Mayor said something similar… after a thorough public finances investigation the mayor was unceremoniously replaced 😆

As a side, it is worth Re-torquing it after the first time it runs and then again after 500 miles or so…

Speedy Cables have alway done good work for me - they can change it to electronic too, just run a single wire from the coil and it’s up n running…

Mine makes 114.8 bhp on twin 40 webers and is still smooth enough to idle properly and drive normally on the road … no superchargers needed

On 03/04/2024 at 16:25, Don Cook said:

Mike

Rouen and St Etienne have been discussed, at some length, on another thread: In short, classic cars are exempt in Rouen https://urbanaccessregulations.eu/countries-mainmenu-147/france/rouen (open the 'Exemptions' box!), and in Sept, St Etienne regulations won't apply to cars.

Thanks that’s really useful 👍🏻

6 hours ago, Rosbif said:

Not at all. It is actually 'Bleu de France'

Or if you prefer, a Norman.

Those A210’s were beautiful 🤩 

18 minutes ago, Beans said:

It's a uni colour based on Topaz Orange but brighter.
It is actually a pretty close match to RAL 2000 (yellow orange)

Cool, thanks !