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TR7th Heaven

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  1. It's time for new rubber on my '72 MKIV Spit running on factory 4.5J steel wheels. I see two choices: 155/80/13 or 175/70/13 I want to retain the accuracy of the speedo so are the 155s better? The 175s would be wider so would I get more grip or are they just a little too wide? It's currently got 145/13s on it but they're hard to find at a reasonable price. What are people running and what would you suggest?
  2. Thanks both I'll run it with the standard gap as you suggest R  😎  
  3. Hi, I've just fitted an Accuspark electronic ignition system (module/coil/leads/cap/rotor arm) but there's nothing about enlarging the plug gap in their instructions. The standard plug gap for points is 25 thou. Is there any advantage in enlarging the gap with the Accuspark system? I ask because I've heard some people increase the gap with Luminition etc Thanks
  4. Decided to keep the ballast resistor so ordered an Accuspark 'ballast type' sports coil. Will now be fitting the coil, electronic ignition, Accuspark silicone plug leads, red rotor arm and distributor cap to my 'stripped, cleaned and re-painted' Delco distributor. My plugs are NGK and are pretty new so will remain. Cost was very reasonable at £67 delivered for everything. Let's see how she runs after all that.
  5. That's interesting Danny. So I could keep my existing coil and ballast resistor? I assumed I'd have to upgrade to a sports coil to take advantage of having electronic ignition and potentially a stronger spark. Accuspark do a sports coil suitable for use with a ballast resistor, so I could replace the coil like for like and retain my existing ballast set up. Maybe that's the way to go? R 
  6. Hi, I'm just about to upgrade the car to electronic ignition. I intend using Accuspark as I've had their units on several cars before with no issues. I have a Delco dizzy. Anyway, I will also upgrade the coil to a sports type coil but at the moment, I have a standard type coil with a ballast resistor. My question is, can I fit a non-ballast type coil by just removing the ballast resistor? If so, is there anything about the wiring I should be careful of? Any help, as always much appreciated Richard
  7. Thanks sparky-spit I've just fitted new seals! They were a pain. Oh well. At least I know   :)
  8. Thanks sparky-spit I've just fitted new seals! They were a pain. Oh well. At least I know   :)
  9. I want to change the glass (side windows) in my '72 Spitfire MKIV. The passenger side just pulls straight out but the driver's side is firm. I guess the passenger side window shouldn't really do that but it does and otherwise, it works perfectly. Anyway, how do I remove the driver's side? What do I need to slacken off to lift the glass out?   Thanks,   Richard
  10. I want to change the glass (side windows) in my '72 Spitfire MKIV. The passenger side just pulls straight out but the driver's side is firm. I guess the passenger side window shouldn't really do that but it does and otherwise, it works perfectly. Anyway, how do I remove the driver's side? What do I need to slacken off to lift the glass out?   Thanks,   Richard
  11. That's a good point Dannyb Never thought of that
  12. Anyone tried this here Dynolite gear oil in their gearbox or differential? It's specially forulated (apparently) for older, worn, noisy transmissions which I think means it's extra thick. It doesn't pretend to cure wear, but mute the noise. Worth a try? or stick to good old EP80? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1714.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  13. James Paddock sell the Newton Commercial stuff at good prices. Rich  ;)
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