Oggi
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herald948 wrote: similar hard object of the appropriate diameter lying about somewhere. No secret to bending these lines; just keep decently firm pressure on the pipe as you form it around whatever object! Brings tears to the eyes just thinking about that one ;D :o ;D Sorry couldnt resist
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4535 wrote:Thanks Dave, I have seen Delaney ones on canleys for £56 but they are out of stock so I think I might get one of those if in the meantime I can't find one cheaper. Still expensive at that price! May even pop into a local auto factors see if they can pick them up any cheaper. Thanks for the pics Dave much appreciated The same/similar heater controls were used on some series landrovers, it might be worth trying somewhere like craddocks, paddocks or famous four, all on google. If it's landrover it is usually cheap.
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Just had a massive catch up on this one, sounds like you are getting closer. My money is still on a poor earth (engine to chassis) did you check the condition of that? As you say the old boy could possibly be your new best friend I would offer him some beer tokens if he would spare you 1/2 hour of his time.
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Ahhh just had a look at your youtube moment. First thing that hit me is you dont appear to have a vacuum pipe attache from the distributor to the carb. Thats the cone shaped thing on the side of the distributor, there should be a pipe running from there to a similar point on the carb. No vacuum no start!! Secondly it might be worth going right back to basics and setting the static timing. There is a link somewhere on this site for a PDF of the Herald workshop manual. I have a copy but no idea how to upload it so if you drop me your email on a PM I will happily forward a copy. Are you running neg or pos earth from the battery? this will determine which way round the leads go to the coil. Earth strap is easy to find, stick your head under the front of the car and you should see a cable (probably very grotty) bolted to the bottom of the engine near the bottom pulley on the engine, follow that and you have both ends of the earth strap.
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When I mentioned the earth strap I mean the one from the engine to chassis, which is located at the front of the engine and goes underneath and is bolted to the chassis via the steering rack mounts. I take it you set the correct gap on the points when you installed them? 0.16 from memory but could be wrong. If you want to check for spark pull one of the spark plugs reattach the lead to the plug and hold it close to the block. PLEASE NOTE THIS IS HIGH VOLTAGE SO USE WELL INSULATED PLIERS TO HOLD THE PLUG. When you crank it over you should be able to see a spark running across the gap on the spark plug, if not its either the points arent set right, engine earth is poor or you havent got the low voltage lead attached to the distributor and coil. Hope this helps
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If your trying to get it running first thing I would suggest as your getting fuel to the plugs (is the fuel new or old?) replace the points and condensor and rotor arm check the condition of the dizzy cap. They are all really cheap parts and the best place to start. If still no spark check the earth strap and replace the coil. I have been through all this recently with mine it's a process of elimination, mine ended up being the coil was on it's way out.
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Hot start also appears to be OK I just need to fine tune the timing. Many thanks to all those that made suggestions and recomendations, As always I picked up some useful hints and tips along the way. One of the reasons I like this forum.
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It arrived in this mornings post and as I am working from home today I couldnt resist using my lunch break to fit it. What a difference first flick of the key and she is running. I didnt have time to let the engine get warm so cannot tell if all is well on the warm starting but compared to the old coil it is a big improvement. I will be ordering the kit Dave recommends as well and that will hopefully put an end to this issue.
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Thanks Peter, I will double check the connections when I fit the new coil when it arrives. I had trouble sourcing a decent coil locally so ended up buying online. I have ordered a Lucas gold sport DLB105 non balasted coil, hopefully it will arrive today or tomorrow.
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Well I have tried all the suggestions so far and installed an extra earth and at first still no joy, so I stripped everything cleaned all possible connections again and it ran for a while. but once it was warm it wouldnt fire. It appears it might be the coil as I noticed it had got very hot whilst the engine was running, surely it's not supposed to get that hot you can hardly touch it? I will call into Manvers tomorrow if I get back from work in time and pick up a Lucas.
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Good thoughts, but the engine earth is good and I have just cleaned the contacts and lead, and the coil is only 12 months old. I have connected the spark plug tester to the coil and get a strong regular spark, could it be the low tension side that is playing up? Has anyone heard anything about the accuspark stuff on ebay, they are doing a coil distributor and red rotor for �65 is it worth a gamble item is item 180862491253, I cannot afford to be paying out on maybe fixes so just wondering if anyone has tried this product. If I was to add an extra engine earth strap where is the best point to go from on the engine to the chassis?
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My Herald has started playing up again. It was starting fine idled well and reved fine. I left it on the drive ticking over to get it warm and all was well. Turned it off went to put it back in the garage and nothing absolutely no spark. So far I have a strong pulse from the coil, another new set of Lucas points, condensor and rotor arm, still nothing. I have tried with an inline spark tester and this is where it gets weird, most of the time no spark and then every now and then it will give an odd spark and try to run, the spark is then frequent for about 2 seconds then dies again. Is this the distributor or control box. The cap leads and plugs are newish I have also tried two other caps and sets of leads, I have recleaned up the earth leads and the battery is good and with the cap off the points spark well. I'm at a loss anyone got any suggestions?
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On looking yesterday with fresh eyes, the bolt holding the slave wasnt quite tight enough so had allowed it to slip back. I have reset this nice and tight in the right position and the clutch is liveable with but still not right. When we got the car my father inlaw drove it back and he recons the clutch was nice and light but that was 4 years ago and it has since been stuck on due to no use, freed off and a new clutch just fitted. I will change the master just in case but once its on the road it may improve over time. But my next question will cause further delays in getting an MOT see new thread.
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Update on this, I have spent the last few evenings pulling out the box cleaning everything replacing the 3 part clutch, I even made up a centralising tool from a scrap gearbox I had lying around. I am still at the same place as before I started just a little poorer and everything is a lot cleaner. I also replaced the slave cylinder. The pivot pin is good with no play. With the bleed open the master operates nice and smoothly but I will replace the seals in a hope it may be that but apart from that I am at a loss. I used DOT4 is that OK I cant see how it would make a difference from 3 but please tell me if I am wrong. Any suggestions?
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Just a quick thankyou to all those that offered advice, the job went smoothly all apart from 1 b****r of a bolt that sits right above the cross member, that was a pain in the a*s Still got plenty of other bits to do but when a job goes well it helps motivate to get on with the rest + I saved 2 evenings beer tokens as well now thats a bonus!