A TR7 16V
-
Posts
278 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by A TR7 16V
-
Mountney have replied, and their 3 & 4 inch round clip-on mirrors are both supplied with flat glass. But as a fairly standard size I imagion it's possible to get convex replacements. Graham.
-
The one Johnny points to seems to be the Mountney rectangular one (CDM. So if they stay on, that's worth knowing. These are Mountney ones are available on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLAS.....?hash=item33a6b17461, as are the 3" round ones from the same supplier. Can't see the 4" ones marked as Mountney, but I think they're there. Interestingly, the Mountney website says the rectangular ones (and most others) are flat, but doesn't say that for the round ones (CDM3 and CDM4). I've asked if these are convex and await a reply. Graham
-
These training note are the D's Bs, including the information on adjusting the length of cantrail at the front to close the gap at the back of the window. However, I think the rear part of the hood's shrunk too much, or just misassembled, as I can see the windscreen frame bend back and the scuttle rise against the bonnet as I do the clamps up with the cantrail shortened enough to close that gap. So I've still got a bit on the driver's side. And I think I'll need to fit a new cover to solve the problem. Also, the rear part of the weather strip rail (above the B post) is pop riveted to the hood frame, so I can't move that outboard, which would help a little. Can anyone tell me if the bolts are part of the metal strip, or their heads are just hidden behind the rubber seal? If anyone has pictures of a disassembled one, that would be nice.
-
That would be good to see. Assuming the Mountney ones are better enough to be worth trying, I still have to decide between squarish and round and, if round, between 3 and 4 inch. Graham
-
Wondering if the Mountney ones might be more reliable in fixing - the clamp looks more substantial. Don't think there a convex mirror though. Has anyone tried one of those? As for drilling holes in the car to make it look like some Mods scooter, I'd have to be off me Rocker! Graham
-
The missus wants door mirrors on the herald. So I've been looking at the ones that clip on to the quarterlights -http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2312.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT – and wondered if anyone else has tried them and has an opinion, etc.? Graham
-
Thanks Mark. Unfortunalty the only Gp 5 one on ebay is from 59. It mightn't matter for the hood, but there'll be other stuff; and I want one that covers the 13/60 and 1300 Spitfires as our car's a bitsa. Graham
-
The original workshop manual's in a number of parts, is it not? So which part does the hood? Graham
-
I've either got to find out if there's any adjustment in where the sticks bolt to the tub, or how to fit a replacement cover - the one that's on is okay, but has shrunk. I've done that a couple of times on a TR7, using a proper ROM as I remember. So I've a basic idea, but there'll be differences of detail. Graham
-
Does anyone know if this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triu.....?hash=item2ca0786f04 covers the hood (not literally, the pages would wash off in the rain)? I got a Haynes one, and all it gives is advice on cleaning, FCS. Graham
-
That's an interesting idea. Just need any pair to try, I suppose. Graham
-
Driver's door on ours only locks with key, and the inside handle doesn't go forward. Though I do note it opens from inside when locked from outside, and, IIRC, closes again. I assume the LHD sports six had a left hand door that only locked from outside and a right hand door that only locked from inside. I wasn't expecting the key to override pushing the handle forwards, i.e. be able to lock from inside and unlock from without. And I'm not sure only being able to lock from outside is any better than only being able to lock from within. And being able to lock from both sides but then unlock only from that side might confuse everybody – hence I'd disable the inside mechanism with a locking handle. So it would be more interesting if the button could be made to override pushing the inside handle forward. But given the possibility of getting a locking passenger handle, might it be used? Graham
-
Yes, but given a locking handle that takes a key, can the car then be locked and unlocked from outside, presuming the inner mechanism, as described above, is not used or disabled? Graham.
-
Am I right in thinking that the locking mechanism for the Herald/Vitesse doors is in the handle itself and I don't need more than the handle to have a locking passenger door? Graham.
-
No, I don't think so: If the speedo head over-reads, the drive needs to turn fewer times in one mile to make it right. And by simple algebra, that's the same as a display head that needs more turns per mile for the same speed reading, i.e. a higher tpm value. So I think I need an internal helical speedo drive gear with fewer starts and/or an external pinion gear with more, I was wrong before, teeth. So, does anybody know if it's possible to count - see, feel - the number of starts on the helical gear with the OD on the car? Even if it means draining, etc., that's on the to-do list anyway. Also, would the standard Herald 13/60 speedo cable reach to the OD speedo drive? Graham
-
Just had one other thought to add to the issue, but the speedo drive will be off the overdrive not the GB. Must be, otherwise the reading would change between OD on and off. Does that affect the posibility of changing it's ratio? Graham
-
I know the tpm value I need from the current reading on a 1216 tpm one and the frouny face on the LED display stuck to a lamp post [why do they never smile at me?] - . Though the speed reading on a GPS sat nav unit works fairly well too. And that gives that a 1620 tpm would be near enough for avoiding tickets. Yes, I'm assuming the 1216 tpm value is near enough right. But: a) I can't think of a fault in the display head that would make it over read. b) Compared to the idea of pushing the damned thing 52 foot 9 and 6/10ths inches while counting the bloody turns, the risk in that assumption seems well worthwhile to me. c) I haven't got a 53 foot ruler that's marked in tenths. But I can't find a speedo head with that high a value, ne'er mind with the right set of lights, etc. So, if either the internals of the speedo drive are not different for different cars, or like the LT77 it's too much pain to do, I need to pull the "angle drive" that's in, count the teeth and find one that's got 25 percent fewer. But, given that there won't be many teeth on any of them, unless the box, diff, wheel size combo is one Triumph used, it's going to be pot luck finding an angle drive and tpm combination that gives the correct reading. Alternatively, I could just put bigger wheels on the car. But I'm not sure how the herald looks on 19 inch wheels and modern low profile tires. Would there be a bit of bodywork to mod as well? Or make a new bezel for the current speedo with 30 marked where 40 currently is. But that's a bit slapdash, even by my standards. Or get another and have that recalibrated - after checking what its error is. Or get another and recalibrate one myself - never done one, but from what I rember from Hooke, to make it read consistently less, at least to a first aproximation, just needs more tension in the hair spring in the mechanism, i.e. make it shorter. But I don't know how the spring's fixed in; never had one apart. Graham
-
It's the "angle drive" I mean. Though, the question is whether it's like the LT77 box, used on so many BL cars. In that case it can be necessary to change the internal drive component as well, to get the speedo drive ratio that matches the diff ratio and wheel sizes, etc. What I think I need are the diff ratio, speedo drive ratio, and speedo tpm as a set. I guess I can work out offsets for the rolling diameter of the tire - bigger wheels, fewer tpm, etc. Graham
-
Might get the limit switch found and wired in next week. I'll check the number if I do, becuse I'm also going to need help with the speedo drive, as the speedo is overreading by 25 - 30 percent. And as its allready a 1216 tpm one, it may be hard to find one that would match the drive - 1550 to 1600 tpm. I guess I'll also need to know the diff ratio to get the right speedo drive for the O/D. Is changing that doable on the car? Fourth is straight through on these boxes isn't it? Graham
-
Never thought of specifying that. It's left and forwards, so a 3 rail box. Graham.
-
Wondering if anyone can help with where the overdrive limit switch should be on this gearbox, and how to access it? Don't know what box or OD they are, so can't look at a parts manual or owt. Must admit, I don't like the look of that drain plug. Anyone suggest where to get a better one? Graham
-
Thanks, I should get to do that tomorow. Just wanted to know if it was captive or if I need to do it the way Sheepy said. Graham.
-
Thanks, I should get to do that tomorow. Just wanted to know if it was captive or if I need to do it the way Sheepy said. Graham.
-
Going to replace the driver's door striker plate asap. Quick question: if I take out the three CS screws all at once, are the nuts captive or does a plate fall down the inside of the b post? Any hips or tints would be appreciated. Graham
-
Going to replace the driver's door striker plate asap. Quick question: if I take out the three CS screws all at once, are the nuts captive or does a plate fall down the inside of the b post? Any hips or tints would be appreciated. Graham