A TR7 16V
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Everything posted by A TR7 16V
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I've looked a bit more closely, and pretty much all the oil is low down on the front left corner of the block. I can't find any sign it's weeping from under the chain cover and I think it's comming from somthing further back. There's no oil to speak off from the higher up except a very slight weep from the back left corner of the head gasket that the greybeards at work suggest is almost a given. But it looks like I need to pull the rad to see what's happening, so I'll get a bottom end set ready. Any recommendations on where to get a set of bolts n set screws? Gaham
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I've looked a bit more closely, and pretty much all the oil is low down on the front left corner of the block. I can't find any sign it's weeping from under the chain cover and I think it's comming from somthing further back. There's no oil to speak off from the higher up except a very slight weep from the back left corner of the head gasket that the greybeards at work suggest is almost a given. But it looks like I need to pull the rad to see what's happening, so I'll get a bottom end set ready. Any recommendations on where to get a set of bolts n set screws? Gaham
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I've got a bit of an oil leak - about 1pt/100miles -, and it seems to be slowly gettin worse from the state of the driveway. As there's a hosepipe ban comming I need to do something quickish. It seems to be at the front, on the left side of the engine, above the level of the sump - there's a big vertical bolt hole through a small flange sticking out of that corner of the engine, and the top that is blathered. I'm guessing that's the timing chain cover gasket, and propose to get the bits to replace. But is there enything else I should consider or look at first? Graham
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I've got a bit of an oil leak - about 1pt/100miles -, and it seems to be slowly gettin worse from the state of the driveway. As there's a hosepipe ban comming I need to do something quickish. It seems to be at the front, on the left side of the engine, above the level of the sump - there's a big vertical bolt hole through a small flange sticking out of that corner of the engine, and the top that is blathered. I'm guessing that's the timing chain cover gasket, and propose to get the bits to replace. But is there enything else I should consider or look at first? Graham
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Thanks for that. It's perhaps not so unexpected given its also fitted with a Spit engine, box, and overdrive - not sure about the diff. Graham
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Is this a std caliper for a 1970 13/60? I ask because the pads the factors suplied were, according to the garage, wrong in every possible dimention. I've looked online at various images, and I can't see any exactly the same, so I'm not sure enough to just order a set and hope. Graham
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In the picture I added, the yellow arrow shows how I want to move the bonnet. I reckon if I take some of the curve out of the frame tube and move the pivot point up the slot in the bracket behind the overrider, that will do what I want. But can I take any of the curve out of the tube? If I were able to get a jack under the low point of it, which I might just be able to do, will it unbend, or will the bracket sheer off first?
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It's possible it's had a bump or two in it's history. I see the slots in the bracket behind the overrider, but that only seems to let me move the bonnet a little bit up and rather more forward; whereas, I really need it to go up a lot, 15mm. There's scope for it to go back a bit, maybe 5mm. To my eye, it's not that the pivot point needs to move forward on the car, which would make the gaps between the open bonnet and the car more correct, but not help the gaps when closed. Rather, the opened bonned wants to be moved forward w.r.t the pivot point. That will both move the bonnet forward when open and up when closed and correct the problem I want to fix. But the slots I can see don't give that. Is there another slot that I'm not seeing? Graham
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I posted this and then it disappered, so I duplicated it, and the other is active. Graham
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That's not it. It does move the front of the bonnet up slightly, but moves it forward more, and that's the oposite of what's needed. It looks like what I need is to modify the curve in the frame tube one side or t'other But I guess that'll need some heat on it and that means taking the bonnet off the car. Unless there's a better way? Graham
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Thanks. Found the adjustments, but it doen't look like there's enough - the off side will lift but I'm not sure it'll be enough. I'll give it a go and see if it is enough. Graham OT: A Commander Vimes fan?
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Anybody know how I move the bonnet, down on the right I think, and or point me at the instructions? Graham I know I already posted this, and can still find it by a search, but can't find where it is. So if this is a duplicate, or it goes wrong again, sorry.
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Anybody know how I move the bonnet, down on the right I think, and or point me at the instructions? Graham
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Thanks Pete, That's exactly the reply I hoped for. Thanks again, Graham
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Can anyone tell me what the specs are for the hex head screws that hold the tank to the body - there's one goes through the bottom of the bracket that holds the boot lid stay? Oh and where to find them on Rimmers or some other suppliers web site? Graham
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That seems nice and clear, thanks. Graham
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I can't really get the switch out from underneath the dash without taking the radio out. So I was hoping the small panel would come out the front to give me access to the back of the switch - I think it could be a loose wire. I don't know why Mr Haynes don't show the clips that hold it to the wood of the dash. Graham
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Go-on, someone must know how the small switch pannel holds into the 13/60 dashboard. I did look in the Haynes and it shows no clips or screws, etc., but there's no info on its separate removal. Graham
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Can anybody help with how to remove the small pannel with the side/main light switch in the middle of the dashboard on the 13/60. I have an intermittent fault with the supply to the side-lights that seems to be at the switch. However, haveing slung a radio under the dash, access is a bit constrained, so I'd like to have some idea of what I'm doing before I start taking it all out - I hate finding I've done it the hard way for stupid reasons. Graham
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I've got a pair of waterproof boxes on the back seat, but it could do to be louder; especially, the left one. I guess I'll get some board and cut to shape. It's a concertible too, so I'll let you know if I can hear them faded forwards when I do.
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I saw, but there a bit good for my car. Sombody doing a nice one might like them though. Graham
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Looking for a set of those card panels at the outsides of the footwells to fit some speakers in. Don't really care about condition or anything really, as long as they'll take a pair of 125mm speakers. Graham
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Testing the servo's operation is all the test is meant to do. I understand the servo's function is as a mechanical force-amplifier, with a fixed gain and a maximum dynamic range. But the requirement for amplification is a design issue, not test and maintenance. And the servo had a big part to play in the design of the TR7 at least. It let BL fit the same brakes as the HA Viva had to a much (well a bit) higher performance car. Saved them loads of money. Though not necessarily enough to make a profit. Graham
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I sort of agree with JohnD - find the problem, not mask it. But I think servos have their place. There's a really easy test for the servo, however. Just start the engine with your foot on the brake. If the pedal doesn't move down substantially for the same foot pressure as the engine fires, then the servo is not working. The problem is what is substantially. If IRC fromt the last time I did that with a 7, it should be more than an inch of movment under your foot, but it's been a while. Graham