A TR7 16V
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Everything posted by A TR7 16V
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I just had one fitted that looks exactly like that. I got mine from Moss. Only thing is it seems to be a bit noisy once the thrermostat opens - rattles a bit at low rpm, but only after several minuites. The old one was quiet - though it sprayed water all over and poured it out when the engine ran backwards on switch off (seem to have cured that though). Think it's the pump, but I did have the front oil seal and chain cover gasket done at the same time. But I'm thinking that because it's only noisy when it warms up, and because there's no change in sound for pressing on the cover with a long screwdriver, it can't be the chain on the cover - like because of a thinner gasket or somesuch. It's done a few hundred miles now and it don't seem to be changing any, so I'm just keeping an ear on it, as it were, for now. Graham
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I just had one fitted that looks exactly like that. I got mine from Moss. Only thing is it seems to be a bit noisy once the thrermostat opens - rattles a bit at low rpm, but only after several minuites. The old one was quiet - though it sprayed water all over and poured it out when the engine ran backwards on switch off (seem to have cured that though). Think it's the pump, but I did have the front oil seal and chain cover gasket done at the same time. But I'm thinking that because it's only noisy when it warms up, and because there's no change in sound for pressing on the cover with a long screwdriver, it can't be the chain on the cover - like because of a thinner gasket or somesuch. It's done a few hundred miles now and it don't seem to be changing any, so I'm just keeping an ear on it, as it were, for now. Graham
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Thanks for the help. I found and fixed it. Though I have to fess up to fixing the earth connector in the "nose cone" with a scotchlock. I'll look for a better solution when it ain't so bloody cold out there. The orginal 3 way bullet connetor in the earth side has devolved into a 2 way one, and it's the link to the battery that's no longer connected or connectable. I just need a replacement 3 way rubber coated block, but I ain't got one. So I found an old scotchlock in the boot of the Doly - probably got there from the boot of the TR7 -, and connected direct to the LHS headlamp earth. I think I see what was happening with the mainbeam warning light as well - that now works too. Graham
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Don't think it's the switching because the mainbeam warning light goes on and off with both the dash and column switch. Initially, it was on for both main and dip, but now, after I lifted the bonnet and poked at the wires, it works right. BTW, the side lights are working fine and on when the headlights should be (I think - I will check later), so are they earthed separatly at any point? Graham
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Fuse is okay. I think it must be an earth fault if the GPS speedo is powered off the coil, and went out with the lights on, but the ignition continued to work: can't be the supply, so it must be the earth. But is there a common earth point for the lights, other than the battery strap? Graham
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Both headlights, dip and main, have all gone off. I parked the car up with the lights working, but when I came back an hour later, they wouldn't turn on, and every time I tried, the GPS speedo went off. That runs off the supply to the coil and is earthed to the body, where several other things earth, inbord and below the battery. The really odd thing was, whenever either the main or dip lights should have been on, the mainbeam warning light came on. I had a poke about, and now everythoing except the headlights seem to be fine. The mainbeam warning light is only on when it should be. There is one inline fuze, in the loom just infront of the bulkhead in the engine bay, but it seems fine. I'm thinking earth fault. But where? Anybody any ideas? Graham
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Sorry. It's the distance out from the centre line of the stub axle to the centre line running through the two calliper piston centres. It's essentially the leverage the calliper has on the brake disc. It's not necessarily the exact same distance as hub to pressure centre, but it can't be far off. And if the two callipers are basically similar, the percentage change in leverage should be the same as the change in that distance – near enough for such a comparison. So if you're comparing another calliper as an upgrade, like from TR7 to TR8 callipers, you have to multiply the change in piston area by the change in that distance. If I had to guess I'd put the centre of the 51 mm TR7 piston at about 98 mm from the hub centre, and the 54 mm TR8 piston at slightly less – 97 or 96 mm –, giving an area change of 13 percent but a loss of about 1.6 percent from the pressure centre moving inwards on the same diameter disc. That gives, approximately, an overall gain of about 11 percent. Again guessing at the leverage for the big princess callipers, I get that as an overall increase in front brake effort of just under 20 percent – about 12 percent from area gain and 6.5 ish from the centre of the smaller 4 pot pistons being further out from the hub. I think 20 percent is a pretty good increase, considering you can only really take advantage of it by increasing the grip from the tires, and H rated road tires on a standard wheel should only vary in their coefficients of friction by about 10 or 12 percent, e.g. from about 0.8 to about 0.9 - depending on what source you take; some give it as 0.9 to 1.0. Graham
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Does anybody have the measurment for the distance between the piston centre and hub centre on the TR7 and TR7 front brake callipers? Graham
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I'm not sure forcing it not to start till oil pressure's up is ideal. I suppose you could fit a defeat switch in parallel (with a relay in the ignition feed that's open till the oil light goes out). But if the charge in the battery is low, you could blow it all by the time you've realized you wanted a quick start. I've done that by waiting for the oil light to go out before pulling the choke out, as you do. As to firing a bit when cold but with no choke: Might excess fuel when starting be connected with slightly leaky float chamber needle jets? I'm wondering if there's enough fuel in the line above and/or enough residual pressure to overfill the float chamber and lift the level above the top of the main jet; especially, if the tickover is set a little high. You might even be able to see something by removing the filter when cold and looking if there's fuel on the venturi steps. It's probably not that, but it's easy and relatively cheap to try. Graham
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There's a similar thing with the "Truimph" badges on the front of the ealier Sprints, some have raised letters and some flush. Isn't the "overdrive" back plate the same though? Graham
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I suppose it depends on how much leverage is needed and how many turns before the filter will turn by hand. The one I took off only needed two or three applications of the tool, which was probably well less than one turn. But to break the seal, it needed a bit more leverage than the Draper chain wrench gave comfortably. And I've never liked the way the chain is picked up by the handle, once wrapped round the filter - just too fiddly. Some of the other chain wrenches look much better. Are the ones that clamp securely to the filter a pain if you need it to turn the filter many times? Graham.
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I suppose it depends on how much leverage is needed and how many turns before the filter will turn by hand. The one I took off only needed two or three applications of the tool, which was probably well less than one turn. But to break the seal, it needed a bit more leverage than the Draper chain wrench gave comfortably. And I've never liked the way the chain is picked up by the handle, once wrapped round the filter - just too fiddly. Some of the other chain wrenches look much better. Are the ones that clamp securely to the filter a pain if you need it to turn the filter many times? Graham.
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Alternatively, there's http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triu.....?hash=item2c7492737e and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triu.....?hash=item2c97f57af2.
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Well the tool's turned up and fits very well. It's not clear from the description, but it takes 1/2 and 3/8ths inch drive or a spanner - open or ring - the nut is actually a 1/2 to 3/8ths adaptor with 6 flats. Obviously I haven't actually turned the filter, but I offered it up, and there's room to operate it with a full sized 1/2 inch ratchet, and loads of room with a 3/8ths stumpy. Graham
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Well the tool's turned up and fits very well. It's not clear from the description, but it takes 1/2 and 3/8ths inch drive or a spanner - open or ring - the nut is actually a 1/2 to 3/8ths adaptor with 6 flats. Obviously I haven't actually turned the filter, but I offered it up, and there's room to operate it with a full sized 1/2 inch ratchet, and loads of room with a 3/8ths stumpy. Graham
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I didn't bother with the cloth tightening it up, just did it by hand. But I did do the best I could filling it with clean oil and then turned her over on the starter with the ignition disabled till the light went out. It's easier to fill the Sprint's filter housing, as it sits at a much smaller angle. But it did look like I got it screwed on before much of it spilled out. I also used some low detergent "classic" mineral oil (Kroon 20/50). I've used ASDA's semi-synthetic in the sprints for years, and it don't seem to be a problem. But the Herald sounded tappety (done 'em, there gapped right), and leaked a bit much. Sounds much better cold and about the same hot. Less leakage when cold is to be seen. Don't imagine we'll do more than a couple of thousand a year, so I'm thinking every MOT should do for oil changes. Graham
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I didn't bother with the cloth tightening it up, just did it by hand. But I did do the best I could filling it with clean oil and then turned her over on the starter with the ignition disabled till the light went out. It's easier to fill the Sprint's filter housing, as it sits at a much smaller angle. But it did look like I got it screwed on before much of it spilled out. I also used some low detergent "classic" mineral oil (Kroon 20/50). I've used ASDA's semi-synthetic in the sprints for years, and it don't seem to be a problem. But the Herald sounded tappety (done 'em, there gapped right), and leaked a bit much. Sounds much better cold and about the same hot. Less leakage when cold is to be seen. Don't imagine we'll do more than a couple of thousand a year, so I'm thinking every MOT should do for oil changes. Graham
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Good. Is it the night for saying it looks like it will do the "trick" a "treat"? Graham
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Good. Is it the night for saying it looks like it will do the "trick" a "treat"? Graham
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These look the same from a UK supplier: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANGL.....d:g:lyMAAOSwl9BWGpth. But I've ordered one of these slightly cheaper tools to try: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1815.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. I'll see if it fits and works, and report. Graham
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These look the same from a UK supplier: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANGL.....d:g:lyMAAOSwl9BWGpth. But I've ordered one of these slightly cheaper tools to try: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1815.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. I'll see if it fits and works, and report. Graham
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I don't much care about the mess, but errindores gets grumpy. I like the jubbly clip idea, but It'd get used for somert else and never be there when needed. I do like the look of those 1/2 inch drive ones, especially at the price they are from China. Shouldn't matter overly if they're a little bit crap. Graham
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I don't much care about the mess, but errindores gets grumpy. I like the jubbly clip idea, but It'd get used for somert else and never be there when needed. I do like the look of those 1/2 inch drive ones, especially at the price they are from China. Shouldn't matter overly if they're a little bit crap. Graham
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I did, and that type of tool. And I see I want one for 14 flats. But I'm not sure what diameter - 67mm? Graham
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I did, and that type of tool. And I see I want one for 14 flats. But I'm not sure what diameter - 67mm? Graham