A TR7 16V

It was a bit stuck, but it did come out and the socket fitted. Had to hit the shaft with quite a big hammer to get the wheel off though. Wheel's not great, but the column sheath has all 4 mountings for the column switch.  Now I need to get at the knuckle down by the steering rack to turn the shaft so the canceller mechanism works better. I also intend to replace that with a UJ, as the rubbers have gone and the replacement flexi ones are rubbish - I had one fail completely while driving. Graham

Maybe my 12 point socket has too thick a wall, cos it didn't seem to get between the nut and a boss in there that I assume is for the horn connection.  Graham

Went to take the steering wheel off a 12/50 I'm parting up and I had nothing to undo the nut with. What's the proper tool for that look like even? Looked in the Autobooks manual and it just says "remove the nut". Graham

Don't know about the 2000/2500's, though many of the Triumphs seem to be switchable to LH indicators. Like I said I did the Doly already - needs the stalks bending a bit and one lead extending a few inches -, and I've done a couple of TR7s - the early ones were RH and later ones LH, and the later switches will fit early cars. Now the Herald is done.  Graham

No the wipers aren't on the herald column. It's in the wife's car or my Doly (which has also been swapped to indicators on the left) after I've been driving the Herald that I wipe the windscreen turning left and have to turn right when it starts raining. I think that may be because I learned to drive in a car with the indicators on the right, and go back to that with more ease than remembering what to do in a modern car. As I said, indicators on the right is best, but that's only true for a RHD car. With LHD it should be on the left, so, in either case, you can change gear and indicate at the same time. Graham.

What's the difference between the LHD and RHD column light switch? I've just swapped the light and indicator switches over to match modern cars and it works fine, except that dip is with the switch up not down. So is it just that it's the connection with the switch in the most anti-clockwise position that's unwired on the LHD version instead of the most clockwise as on the RHD one? Yes, I freely acknowledge that it's the herald that is right and (nearly all) modern cars that have the switches the wrong way around. But when I drive one after the herald, I wipe the windscreen every time I turn left, and have to turn right whenever it starts raining. I also had to strip it all down, because while I was fixing the main beam flash switch I managed to push the indicator switch forward with the cowl off, and pulled the wires out of the circuit board. Luckily I had some copper wire I could make pins from and solder in from the back. Graham

I've fitted a strap from the battery to this earth point by the coil. But I'm still confused: There're thickish wires in the loom feeding the main and dip beams, but the earth returns in the loom are much thinner. So, that must mean the returns from the dips and mains must be through something other than the loom wiring, or that would be at least as thick a wire as the feeds. But, can that work through the bonnet hinges? Graham

Now installed the fuse box and have a two additional fuses. I hadn't realized that there was a flash function on the column switch, which is what was confusing me about the wiring diagram. Now I see what's what, I must say I'm a bit surprised the fuse in the original system only covered the main beam flash (which don't work on my car). Graham

I have an earth point on the right hand mounting of the coil that's not actually electrically connected to the body. Since it provides the earth point for the main and dipped headlights, that's an issue. A previous owner's connected it the the point where the main braid from the battery connects to the body, but its a manky bit of wire that's obviously overheated at some time and the insulation's softened.  The question is, should there be a separate connection between these two points on the body, or should the one by the coil alone be how the lights earth? Graham

I've got a saloon door on the convertible. I have the anti-bust catch bit for the door, and the B post bit is still on the car, but the saloon door hasn't got the holes and I haven't worked out how to mark where they should be. But other than that, and the issue with the drop glass mentioned, it fits. Graham

I'm a bit surprised I can't find anything on the subject on line. I would have thought somebody would have done it one way or the other. But I can't think of a search string that gets aught.  Still the bonnet, two doors, and boot lid came with 4 wheels attached. So I'm sure I'll be able to work it out. Looking at the job, I wonder if I'll need to use the 12/50 front valance as well. That's not in the best of condition on one side. But I see they can be sourced on ebay. Graham

I looked at the bonnet pivot tubes for both 12/50 and 13/60 and they're the same part number, so I assumed mounting were the same for them (621479). Have I got that wrong? Graham

I've got a 12/50 bonnet and was wondering what I need to fit the front grill and panel from a 1200, other than the grills and panel? Also, I there any issues I need to know about fitting the 12/50 bonnet and boot on the 13/60? That is, other than some won't think it's a good idea. I prefer it, and it ain't like I've got a very original car. Graham

Finally found what was catching when I swapped the dyno for an alternator - a previous carer had put a washer with an oversized inner and outer diameter at the front end of the lower bolt, and it looks like this moved somehow and started to catch. Graham

Well I've completed stage 1, and the alternator and fuse box are fitted and everything seems to work. However the fuse box is just acting as a junction for the thick brown and brown and yellow wires, and all the other connections to the regulator (except the earth, of course). So I now have a kit of parts if anyone wants to convert from an alternator to a dynamo.

I'm gathering the bits to convert to an alternator, and have the basic wiring sussed, but I happen to have a spare Lucas fuse box, like fitted to a lot of Triumphs. So I thought it would be an opportunity to fit that where the reg box currently is, as that'll be redundant. The fuse box takes 2 fuses with 4 lucar connectors on three ends, and six on one (18 lucars in total). So I plan to bring the existing fuse into the new box and feed that from where the main lead from the alternator connects to the battery and solenoid.  I may run a separate thick lead from the secondary output connection on the alternator direct to the solenoid as well, but only if I ever fit an alternator with a capacity bigger than that of the current connection. I didn't mean that pun, really I didn't. I'm was thinking to use the second fuse for all the stuff off the A1 terminal of the reg box, which feeds everything run off the ignition switch and the courtesy lights. However, I don't see what the connection from reg box A1 to pin 4 on the back of the master light switch is for, as in what is it connected to in which position of the switch? If I had a spare I'd look with an AVO meter, but I ain't. Graham

Oh, one more question. Anybody got a suggestion for what to fit in the reguator box when it's redundant? My imediate thought is some fuses. Graham

Turns out it was the bulbs being swapped and it's the ignition light comming on at low revs. That's a relief to me, as I do think the oil light coming on is a matter for concern, if hardly imediate panic. In my case, there was also a short term rattle when starting with more than minimum throttle. However, that's not been evident lately, so may have been something other than the mains being slack, and thus causing low oil pressure.  My response was to buy a spare engine that is supposed to have a re-ground crank and new bearings in it, though done some years since and then stood - it was a bargin even after carriage. That's still being checked over, but I guess it will come in eventually,  either for staight replacement or spares  - see other thread on head rattle. So if it turns up and the weather's good, I'll be fitting an alternator this weekend. Anyway, thanks for the help. Graham

Oh good, cos what I though was the oil light's been comming on at very low revs and I thought the mains were heading towards being history. But if its the dyno/regulator stating to fail, I've the parts to upgrade to an alternator already in the post. Graham

Because I've just stopped the car and noticed my oil pressure light does. Which I thought was odd. And thinking about it, I can't see why the oil light should come on at rpms it is normally off at, just because the ignition power is disconnected. Whereas I don't know what the dynamo and regulator do under those conditions at all. So I'm wondering if the two lights in the speedo are crossed over.  I'd lift the bonnet, disconnect the oil pressure switch, and see which light goes off with the ignition on and  the engine not started. But it's far too bleeding cold out there to do it now, so it'll be tomorrow evening. Graham

  Nope, pulley nut it seems well tight, and no play in dynamo front bearing I can find, either side-side or end-float. Top mounting 1/2" AF bolt and locking nut have clearly seen too many 13 mm spanners and have nearly no corners, but I can't see any problem with bottom bolts. But the bottom front nut has cut a notch in the back of the fan blades about 3 mm wide and 1.5 mm deep. Graham

Anybody know why the dynamo fan would start to catch and ring on the lower dynamo mounting bolt? it's not causing any problem other than the noise, but I don't like it. Graham

There's Moss inserts, look like sintered bronze, for the HS4 I can find. They fit for reaming the holes out, which shouldn't be too hard if I can find a ream the right size and ones for HS2s. But I'm still waiting to see if the new springs fix it well enough - it's not the air leak that's the problem, it's them stopping at, what I assume was the old idle setting for many years, when eased off slowly. Graham

I guess I need to have the carb off and strip it to check if it's the spindle or the body. So thanks for the suggestion if may fix for a spindle. Has anybody used those 18 quid ones off Ebay with the rubber O rings? Do they help? Graham

That the holes in one of the carb bodies is warn is causeing problems with setting the idle. It fails to return to the idle position, touching the adjuster screw, when I take foot off throttle, and I have to blip to get it to idle slow. It's not a huge problem (yet), so I'm not up for a reconditioned carb or heavy work. But I though sombody might have a jury-rig solution - the return springs seem okay, but I've ordered a new pair anyway. Graham