A TR7 16V

I'm still waiting for the new cable, so I've not done anything but look at the pedal end on the car. But I've been playing with the spare pedal and bracket I got "just in case". I noticed that on both, the bit of metal bent up as a pedal stop when the pedal is full up (to stop it rising up past the point where the cable is just slack) was bent forward, flat to the floor. So the pedal has far too much movement at the idle position. Indeed, if I lift the pedal up enough, it starts to pull on the cable and lift the revs. And given the pedal spring from Chic Doig is much stronger than the knackerd one on the spare set can ever have been, I suspect it's going to need a stop at that end of the pedal if I fit the spring. I can hold off on fitting the pedal spring a bit, as have fitted a 1500 pivot arm bracket for HS4s on the HS2 carb set, and that puts a bit more load on the carb return springs at idle, which holds the unsprung pedal up better. But I'd like to take as much of the floppiness out of the pedal as possible - it's proved a liability in making it easy to miss the brake and hit the throttle in the past. Hitting both is a little embarrassing. But hitting the throttle instead of the brake coming up on a roundabout turns out to mean an underwear change. I've bent the idle stop on the spare pedal bracket back up. But it took a bit of hammering, and it's cracked mostly through. So I doubt it will last long against whatever force it is that tends to flatten that bit. I also assume the one in the car will give when I try to lift that too. I also expect it will bend in the wrong place.  So what is it that tends to flatten that return stop? It looks to me like you have to hook the pedal from behind and pull back with much force to do that. Also, what is the throttle pedal carrier bolted to on the car floor - captive nuts? I can't see what's under the one in the car, but it looks to be fitted with a mix of a screw and a bolt. I've plied it with lashings of WD40 in the hope it's might free-up. But I think it's not likely to come quietly. So I don't want to replace the pedal bracket till I can get any errors welded back together. So has anybody got a suggestion for how to fix for that idle pedal stop without taking the pedal bracket off the car? Graham

I've got the bell crank and bracket (UKC5374) fited. It came with a link arm from a 1500 (UKC3272), but that was too long. Luckily I had a link arm on a set of HS8s waiting to go on a Doly Sprint that's just under 2 1/2 inches centre to centre and does the job. What I want (so I can put the stolen one back on the HS8 linkage) is part number 156535. So does anybody have one of them spare? I think the MkIV link arm might be a little shorter than the one I have on. That has the clevis pin on the end of the cable rather close to the bell crank bracket, and the pin I have is a bit long to go into the slot between the bracket arms - I've a shorter one on order that I hope will fix that better. I finally found the PN for the bell crank bracket I want from the MkIV, and its 156533. However, the 1500 one used with the HS2s only stretches the carb return springs about 3/8" more than they were. Which is good, as it adds a lot to the return force at idle, but comparatively little at full throttle and is less tiring on the foot than adding another spring in parallel.  

Thanks Clive, I'll send them an email asking about them. I got a reply from Don hoods on the lead time: They can cut but can't assemble till the lockdown is over, or at least diminishes. But if I order (and presumably pay) I'll be given priority when it does. So I've got to look elsewhere if I want one soon. Does anybody have anything on the James Paddock ones or god forbid the gRimmer Bros ones, or any other sources. I have a lead time, at least, on the Prestige hoods of 7-10 days? Graham

Yes. There must have been one cos I have the holes where it went. But I have no idea how it fits. I don't see any holes through the strip in Canley's picture, so how are they supposed to fit? Graham

Nice to hear that Don's Spitfire hood was good. I haven't found anywhere more reasonably priced. Most of the rest I'd guessed was going to be needed. Most of the poppers were screwed down and that wasn't working, and the holes had got too big for rivets that would fit in the poppers. So I've replaced all but the middle two at the back with stainless cross-head bolts, nuts, and washers. I think the problem with them two was access - I was working alone and me arms ain't that long -, which should be easier while the hood's being replaced - and the boy's 12 now, so he could be helpful if I shut the Wi-Fi off and lie about why it's down. It's the headrail bits that look different to the TR7's. So any specific advice there is welcome. It may also be a problem that I don't have the trim over the rear window - it didn't come with the car. I see Canley's have them at a reasonable price, but I can't see what fixings come with, or are needed - all I've got is some holes. So again, any specific details would be welcome. Like, will the hood have the holes and/or can I just keep ignoring that trim for now. Also, I hope there's no welding to be done, cos everywhere near's shut and there's the risk of getting stopped driving up to where I know a man who I expect is still at work - I won't have a good excuse, like that fella who was driving from Leicester to London, and said it was cos bread were cheaper there. Graham

The hood has finally split under the near side window and will have to be replaced - why does duct tape stick to anything but the vinyl? I've done TR7 ones, so I'm reasonably confident doing it with a little help from the other inmates. But where to get the hood?  Any recommendations? I note the Don Hoods seem most reasonably priced. Also, is there a list anywhere of what other bits not like to be with the hood that I'll need, maybe pop rivets, etc.? Graham

The spare pedal (I got in case the one in the car is a problem, which I can't allow to cause delays) came yesterday. The spring in that was too far gone to be worth use, but I've a replacement and new clevis pin on order. So I got the pin out of that - eventually.  The problem was the cotter pin was rusted into the clevis pin. So the ends had to be filed off to pull the pin through. That wasn't a big issue with it out of the car, but I can see it would have been awkward in situ. The one I've got coming (the pin, in effect, cost less than a pound over the spring alone) is from CHIC DOIG, but the list don't say if it's stainless or galvanized. Looking at the image, I suspect the latter.  I know this isn't a frequent job, but I'm wondering if, for another couple of quid, I should get a stainless clevis pin and R clip, or even a 1/4" UNF setscrew and a nyloc nut? Graham

Thanks, I'd been looking at them and wondering. If I see it right, the cable should go through the slot in the end of the pedal and the clip goes on the turned over bit, just to stop the cable end falling out when slack. I'm assuming that cos the current one is through the pedal father down with a screw-on barrel nipple underneath. I've got a few of those clips off Doly seats and such, and some clips to hold tiewraps on a panel edge from re-wiring the front end, one of which should fit.  Graham

I can't seem to find a clip for the pedal end of the cable. Anybody know a source, got a spare to sell, or able to suggest an alternative? Graham

Would anybody know if this [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-VITESSE-6-1600-2-LITRE-ACCELERATOR-THROTTLE-CABLE-147389-TCE032-/372873693829?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10] Vitesse cable will solve my problem in finding a new cable? It looks to me to be the same as the Spitfire cable connections to the pivot plate and I assume it's the same as the Herald at the pedal end. Graham

I've a  UKC5374 and UKC3272 and a replacement Herald pedal that's supposed to operate okay, even if hinge is a bit manky, all on order. I was wondering about getting a length of inner and outer cable and solder on nipples. I've a selection of higher power irons - even got a 12v one somewhere. Wondering if 1m of inner would do, or if I need 1m5? 1m looks less than the one that's on. But that's more'an a bit generous. I might get 2m5 to possibly make 2 and keep a spare in the boot to make sure the one on the car never breaks. I believe strongly that taking an umbrella either stops it raining or makes it so windy the brolly's useless. I should have all the clips I need and some spares on what's there and whats to come; though I may need a new pedal end clip if they're prone to braking or disappearing when being removed: lost a small nut and washer on the car floor yesterday; spent ages looking; had carpets out and everything; eventually found the bar stewards in me shoe! Graham

If I get a new Spitfire IV throttle cable, will it be long enough for the Herald and will the pedal end fit in the clip at the top of that? I can rescue the carb end clips and bits from the one that's in, but I can't see how they'd fit a Herald cable. I might replace that nut that has trunnions through the bracket with the pivot arm from a UKC5374 - or replace the whole bracket with one from a Spitfire with HS2s. But then I'm left with that nut on the cable unless I saw a slot in it and risk nicking the inner. Also, it doesn't resolve the issue with a spring under the pedal, which I can get. But am unsure I can fit without it all going wrong and leaving the car US, which I can't let happen at the moment - wife's a key worker and using it, cos she broke her PT and that can't be fixed (if it was worth it) while everything's shut. But I've got to do some work on the carbs: I replaced the float chamber rubbers, when I had it all apart to replace a bust exhaust manifold. But now it's tricky to start from cold. It was a really good, easy starter, but now, like Rickie Lea Jones wrote "She gets scared and she stalls" (I'd add the next line, but it's a bit of a pejorative in context). I raised the jets to compensate for the float chambers not hanging below the carbs anymore, and checked the mixture from the plugs. But I think I need to set the jet levels properly - 2 turns / 12 flats below level with the step. However, one of the jets is too stiff to come level and turn back. So I mean to pull the carb and clean that better. At which point, replacing the cable and pedal spring would otherwise be a good idea. Graham  

I've found some pictures on line of the part I've got, before it was bodged. It seems its the one for one of the Spitfires with HS2s, and is like UKC5374 but with the holes for the carb return springs less far back. I guess I could use UKC5374 with longer springs or spring extenders. But it would be nice to have the proper part number if anyone knows it? Graham

Here's a pic.  

That describes the arrangement in the cabin depressingly well except there's no spring (or it's bust). The situation at the carb end looks to be some ad hoc, spliced together thing. There's an arm on the throttle rod which looks like PN 156290 off the Mk4. There's a clevis pin in a hole close to the rod between the carbs and a U shaped fitting on the end of the cable with the nipple through a hole in the end and the clevis pin through two holes in the sides. I know I've seen the adjuster online somewhere, but I can't find it now. It's a curved thingy with a long threaded tube that screws in and out of a block pivoted between the two curved arms to take the slack. But neither the u shaped fitting nor the cable nipple would go through the hole in the tube. So I think the inner must have to be unhooked off the pedal and pulled right through to replace it.  The thing with the pivoted block in it looks a bit like UKC5374, but curved and I think its on the other way round. There's no link rod to the arm on the throttle rod. Graham

I've got a bowden cable, but it looks like the link and cable are modified. The bit's in the cabin look v. diff from the parts cat, with the bare cable hanging down from the bulkhead. I couldn't see how to get the cable out at the carb end without desoldering the nipple. So I took the clevis pin out of the actuator arm, and the adjuster, etc. off the manifold. I think the cable inner might come out of the outer if disconnected from the peddle. But I have no hope it would go back through after. It's all very rusty down on the floor where the spring should be, and looks a little tricky to get at. I've sprayed it with WD40 and we'll see what comes apart without strain later. I note Canley are still dispatching parts, which is really great of them in the interesting times in which we live. But with the adjuster screwed well in, it seems better. So I might wait till a peddle and bits come on eBay so I have an option when it all goes horribly wrong, like Sod's Law says it will - for them in the US, that's the pessimistic version of Murphy's Law. I like Cole's Law though. Graham

While I eliminated the cable and common parts of the linkage, it looks like the fundamental problem is related to the carb return springs not being man enough for the weight of the accelerator pedal at idle, which don't have it's own spring. So I'm gonna see if that's as it should be with the herald, even the twin carb versions, and see what I can do about it.  Graham

I hope these show the part and what the issue is.  As to the spring moving, it's more that the hole turns around the hook on the end of the spring as the throttle opens and closes. I wonder if, as the butterfly almost closes, the hook catches on that bump in the side of the hole. Graham

I have what I think is a MkIII Spitfire twin HS2 carb set on my Herald (the head's MkIII), and I have a problem with the butterfly on the front one (mostly, I think) not returning to the idle position unless I give it a bit of a push. I've eliminated all the possible issues with the cable, etc., and am sure it's close to where the return spring attaches to the lever on the throttle spindle. I had the carbs off to replace the float mounting rubbers and gave it all a clean and a good coat of looking at. It's all a bit worn of course, but I can't feel any step near the idle position in the movement of the butterfly or any part of the connected linkage. Even assembled, but without the spring, it seems to return to the idle position without any hesitation or extra resistance close to the stop. The only thing I can see is that the hole where the return spring goes in the arm on the carb is oval - well, sort of figure 8 shaped, with a bit of a bump or step between two overlapping round holes.  Is this the normal shape for that hole or is it wear? They both look the same as far as I can see - though I'm a bit long sighted now.  If it's wear, and the problem is the spring sticking a little on the bump between the two lobes of the hole, does anyone know where the arms can be got? I've looked on Burlen Fules' webpages, and can't see them, but I'm not sure what their proper name is. If they aren't available separate or are excessively expensive, what's the issue in drilling the hole very slightly (about 1mm on the diameter) larger to make it round? The fix I have at the moment is to double up the spring on the front carb. That works okay, but it's a bit tiresome on longer trips as it needs a heavy foot for bigger throttle openings. Graham

I guess we'll see come summer. But the doors going to be replaced with some saloon car doors sometime this year. And they'll need the glass swapping over (and holes for the burst catches drilling). So I should get chance to look at how it's holding up then. Graham

I just did what may only have been a temporary job of glueing the glass into the winder channel. Because the car's in use, I couldn't take the winder mech out of the door; only access the inner side through the holes in the inner door skin. Also, the old stickum was mostly on the outer side of the glass, but much had dropped into the channel and was stopping the glass going back in. So I had to dig that out. So what I did was get the glass into the channel without the old gum, lever the inner side of the channel away from the glass, heat as much of the assembly as I could up with a heat-shrink gun, and fill the gap with a hot glue gun. I also copper-slipped as much of the mechanism as I could reasonably could. It looks to me like the way the mechanism works, it tends to push the channel against the inside of the glass more than the outside, as it pulls the glass down. So the glue being only on that side should be okay. But I could be wrong on both counts. Questions are, will it matter that the gap filled with glue is now on the inner side of the glass and will the hot glue hold in the summer - it seems fine now, but it is only about 7 or 8 C and I don't know how hot the glass might get in direct sun, but the glue's good to about 60 to 70 C, which would be considered quite warm for West Lancs.  Graham

Didn't see the suggestion to just clean the ring first, and used a small dab of vaseline. But I did take the wheel off and clean with some kitchen role. The back of the hub had previously caught on the stearing shaft and switch gear cover, and there was some light alloy swarf in there that might have been related. Anyway, between the cleaning and the vaseline, it's certainly cured the squeak.  I guess I'll see if it lasts. Graham

Got some Vaseline, though I don't use it as the Bonzo's suggested. But will it leave the contact conductive enough? Graham

Not a big issue, but there's a squeak from the steering every time I turn the wheel, which goes away when I take the cap off and pull the horn push connector up off the contactor ring.  I've identified some electrically conductive grease, but thought I'd ask if anyones got experience of the problem and solution. Graham

Whatever it is, it looks to me like it means taking the carb off and stripping it, to get access to the bolt head propper. At which point I would also have to swap out the manifold cos the one that's on has 4" of 10mm OD copper pipe hammered into the fore end of the waterway, cos most of the steel one rusted to the point the hose wouldn't stay on if so much as touched when hot. And, really, I'd want the replacement drilled and tapped to take a vacuum take-off for a servo first - even if I just blank that for now.  At which point it's all too big to do while I need the car. But one day soon... Graham