Jump to content

xebec

Non-Member
  • Posts

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by xebec

  1. xebec

    GT6 Mk3 Door Part

    Hi John, Thanks for the photo. In the end I have fitted both of the stops in your pic as top window stops. Why there should be a need for two upper stops I don't know but anyway as far as I can see problem sorted. Thanks.
  2. xebec

    GT6 Mk3 Door Part

    Hi John, Thanks for the photo. In the end I have fitted both of the stops in your pic as top window stops. Why there should be a need for two upper stops I don't know but anyway as far as I can see problem sorted. Thanks.
  3. xebec

    GT6 Mk3 Door Part

    Hi John, Thanks for your input, the door latch is the original and not new. Those top parts that you show certainly look the same. What I don't understand is where they would fit. Do you happen to know by any chance? The top stops that I have are the same as what you show in the lower part of your pic. The bottom ones I have are large L shaped items that fit in the lower part of the door. I assume there are not supposed to be a total of three stops in one door. Hmm interesting...
  4. xebec

    GT6 Mk3 Door Part

    Hi John, Thanks for your input, the door latch is the original and not new. Those top parts that you show certainly look the same. What I don't understand is where they would fit. Do you happen to know by any chance? The top stops that I have are the same as what you show in the lower part of your pic. The bottom ones I have are large L shaped items that fit in the lower part of the door. I assume there are not supposed to be a total of three stops in one door. Hmm interesting...
  5. xebec

    GT6 Mk3 Door Part

    Hi, Following on from my earlier post entitled "Mk3 GT6 Restoration nearly complete" I am getting close to completion now however, I have come across a part that I cannot figure out exactly where it comes from. I am sure it comes from the doors as I bagged all parts for the doors in plastic bags clearly labeled for which door etc. I thought it was supposed to be one of the window upper and/or lower stops but I have those fitted consequently I am at a loss as to where it exactly fits. I cannot recall from what part of the door I removed the it from. I cannot find it in the parts manual neither. I have attached a pic (first one) and hope someone can identify it. I have also included a couple of other pics. Thanks  & Regards...Ken
  6. xebec

    GT6 Mk3 Door Part

    Hi, Following on from my earlier post entitled "Mk3 GT6 Restoration nearly complete" I am getting close to completion now however, I have come across a part that I cannot figure out exactly where it comes from. I am sure it comes from the doors as I bagged all parts for the doors in plastic bags clearly labeled for which door etc. I thought it was supposed to be one of the window upper and/or lower stops but I have those fitted consequently I am at a loss as to where it exactly fits. I cannot recall from what part of the door I removed the it from. I cannot find it in the parts manual neither. I have attached a pic (first one) and hope someone can identify it. I have also included a couple of other pics. Thanks  & Regards...Ken
  7. Hi Roger, I have the same problem as no chassisnumber visible at all as only appears  on the plate. I believe that seems to be the norm with UK cars. I will mention that when I make the appointment.  Local triumph group sounds good. Thanks for info.
  8. Thanks very much, just a few jobs left and then I have to make an appointment with the RDW. Hopefully that goes okay and I can get it on the road as soon as possible.
  9. Hi Wim, Schinveld, Zuid Limburg. Groetjes...
  10. Hi All, Thanks for the replies, appreciated. Here are a few pics that I have just made but they are not that good. I will take a few when I have it completely finished and then outside so it can be seen more clearly. I have left the engine as standard as well as the rest apart from a Nick Jones CV conversion. The car is an original Saffron Yellow RHD and remains so. I have the front and rear screens to insert and as already mentioned the door fixtures etc. The biggest problem that I can see with the doors is getting the outer door seal fitted on the outside of the quarterlight as I have noticed that the quarterlight cannot be fitted if the seal is already in place. This means I will have to try to suspend the quarterlight halfway in the door and then try to fit the seal. I have a tool to fit the clips by the way. This was mainly the reason for asking the proper fitting procedure to follow as I assume I can maybe fit the sliding glass part before the quarterlight or do I have to fit the quarterlight first? Sorry for all the questions...Thanks & Regards, Ken
  11. Hello, I am now finally coming to the end of the restoration of my 1971 GT6 Mk3 RHD rotoflex model. I would really appreciate advice on the following problems please: What is the correct ignition timing at idle? All my manuals have different specifications i.e. 7, 10 or 13 BTDC. I generally use 98 or 100 octane petrol. What is the correct procedure when reinstalling all the side door and glass fittings? It was a long time ago that I took the door fittings apart that I am struggling to figure out what to install first. At what point are the top door seals fitted? I cannot get the glass and the quarter light in after I have installed these. Is there a correct method of doing this? Any information/ideas greatly appreciated. Regards, Ken
  12. Hi, I have just spent most of the day trying to figure out the correct way to route the interior light/heated rear screen wiring up the left hand side of my MK3 GT6. I wish I had taken a photo of this part when I took it apart however this has been about 15 months ago and now it is back from the body shop I am starting to rebuild it. I am having difficulties trying to remember which way to route it. I have tried just about every way I can think of to route it but nothing seems to work. I need to get this sorted before I can start on the headlining. Can somebody help please. Regards, Ken
  13. Thanks Alec, That's great....Cheers.
  14. Hi, I am shortly going to be fitting the headlining to my restored Mk3 GT6 1971 as it has now recently returned from the paint shop. I am putting in the wiring at the rear for the interior light, rear lights etc and have a question regarding this Night Dimming thingy. This is probably a dim question anyway but I wish to bypass it and can see that I need to connect like for like but I am left with red and black wires. I assume these are power and earth. Where do they connect or are they not used anymore. I have searched the forum and cannot see an answer to this question. Regards, Ken.
  15. Brilliant, Thanks very much. That gives me a very good start. Muchly Appreciated. Rgds, Ken
  16. I am looking to do this on my just about restored GT6, however can anybody supply a wiring diagram for fitting these types of fuse boxes etc? I am not a wiring guru and any info help would really help. Regards, Ken.
  17. Hi, Thanks for the info. I did not realise that I could use the chassis top damper mounting as I thought I would need the conversion bracket assembly but I am very glad you have pointed that out. Great. Do you know of a supplier that you could recommend for the Koni Damper 80-1389 please. Thanks again. Regards, Ken
  18. Hi, I am in the process of deciding what rear shocks I need for my Mk3 Rotoflex Model GT6 (now fitted with Nick Jones CV conversion). I am looking to use the original top shock mounts in the wheel arch and as such I assume that I need the normal longer shock for this setup. I was wondering if there are any other shocks available for this setup rather than the GAZ/SPAX parts that are generally advertised. If not then I will be looking at the GAZ280 shock. Any advice gratefully received. Regards, Ken.
  19. Hi Nick, The washers are about 1.6mm thick. I tried to tap one of the washers between the link and the bush and I could get it about a quarter of the way in so gave up trying that. There would be no way I could get one in on either side of the VL against the bush.  I did not want to damage anything especially the bush. The bushes are a snug fit on the VL. I also tightened the bolt slighty and it all seems very tight and when torqued up it will be even tighter of course. I am slowly coming to the conclusion that the washers are not required in my setup. Cheers.
  20. Hi, I am trying to fit Superflex rear trunnion bushes to my Rotoflex GT6 and have found that in order to fit the upper link to the wishbone there is not a lot of room to get the washers in. The kit supplies 8 top hat bushes, 4 stainless steel bushes and 8 washers. I assume these washers fit either side of the bushes however it is not possible to get them between the bush and the link on the inside. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I have included a pic of the situation as it is as I have left the inside washers out.  I do not want to bang the washers in place as to me that is going to cause damage. Anybody any advice gratefully received. Thanks^& Regards, Ken.
  21. Hi Doug, Thanks for that, yes I am going to change the needles as well. I have received part Nr 520013 from Rimmers which hopefully are the ones I require. In order to press the jet out I assume it needs to be from the inside of the carb outwards not the other way round? Regards, Ken
  22. Hi, I have come to the stage now during my restoration of my 1971 GT6 MK3 rotoflex of overhauliing the carbs. They are CDSE's by the looks of it and I have a couple of questions if I may. Upon removing the air compensating valve I notice that the PO had put silicone sealant around where the valve is inserted into the body of the carb. I have found some info and it would appear there are supposed to be inner and outer seals. I have an overhaul kit and have found 2 flat seals that I assume are what is required for this to seal properly. Is this correct? I have not taken the valve to pieces as I am hoping that it is okay and will leave well alone as it looks complicated. I have also found in the overhaul kit a new jet where the needle fits into. I am trying to figure out whether or not I need to renew this or not and am thinking maybe I will however how do I get the old one out and how do I insert the new one. The part I am talking about is in picture 1 below the air correction valve. I am also going to renew the rubber ring around the needle which I have found some info about and seems reasonably straight forward. Any info as to how to go about any further overhaul or what is necessary gratefully received. Regards, Ken
  23. Thanks to everyone for very informative inputs, much appreciated. Well I have the correct turrets..... I have been racking my brains to figure out what is different from when I dismantled everything and the only thing I can think of is the engine back plate has been changed for a lightened alloy one and it is just a little thicker if I am not mistaken. Whether this would cause the problems or not is a mystery to me. I think I need to get some shims and raise each side bit by bit and loosen off the manifold (this is a standard one by the way) until I come to a reasonable setting which hopefully will solve the problem. I have already removed the rear gearbox mount bolts and undone the gearbox plate slightly so that can move as necessary. I assume this will move forward slightly once shims have been placed on the engine mounts. Does anyone have an idea which the best way to attach the mounts is. I refer to the angle in the slots in the mounts as I am wondering if this also can have an influence on how the engine sits in the chassis? Thanks once again...Rgds, Ken
  24. Hi, The rad is original as it is fine. I have cleaned it up and repainted it. It is sitting in the original place on the chassis and then I came across the problem of it being to high corresponding to the engine height....
×
×
  • Create New...