Matt Neale
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Everything posted by Matt Neale
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Hi. The Pirelli tyres on my Herald are hardly worn but have cracks due to their age. They are probably 8+ years old. Can anyone recommend a budget tyre? I can't really afford to spend the £100 a tyre that Pirelli CA67 Cinturato tyres would cost me.
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The threads of the captive hinge plates for the drivers door have shredded. Only one thread still works and as a result the door is sagging. Has anyone got a solution that isn't too drastic. I don't think I can get to them. Can I use a tap and die set to re tread the plates? Has anyone done this?
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I painted my Herald using Rustoleum. I got it from Rawlins Paints in Leeds. It takes a lot of labour to get it to a finish but it is possible. 2 years now and no problems. I was being quoted silly money for a respray. If you don't count my own labour it cost under £100. I would recommend using Rustolium thinners too.
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All sorted and looking good. Started up with no issues. Timing seems spot on. I couldn't take it out for a spin as I've sheered of a wheel stud. There's always something. Thanks for the help with this.
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One of the wheel studs has come loose from the rear hub. How do I get back into place?! I've tried to pull it into place by tightening up the wheel nut but it just spins and I can't get enough pressure on it to stop this happening. I've ordered a new one as its a bit worn. Is there a technique. I can't face taking off the hub.
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Ok. I've taken out the split pins and I've bought a new tensioner. I'll fit it this weekend. I might need some watch making tools. When I replaced the timing chain I marked up the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. I took off the camshaft, replaced the chain and put it back together lining it up with the marks. All good. When I tightened up the camshaft bolts the camshaft sprocket shifted its position by a few degrees (see rubbish diagram). Do I need to worry about this before I put it all back together. Should there be this amount of play between the two sprockets. Does this made sense??
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Finally shifted it. I wanted to change the chain to eliminate another possible source of noises from the engine. The old timing chain looked ok. I changed it anyway. The new one looks a little more slack if anything. I got the old tensioner off ok but I think I butchered the new one trying to get it on. Do I have to take out the pin? I hope not as it looks like an impossible job to take out and replace the bottom split pin. But how to you get the new tensioner on without wrecking it? Frustrating. I pushed it back into the garage. It's a job for next weekend.
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I'm trying to remove the crankshaft nut so I can chain the timing chain. I can't shift the bolt. As the engine is in place I'm just rocking the car back and forth as I try to shift it. The Haynes manual mentions something about locking tabs but I can't see any and the diagrams seem to be referring to an older model. How do I lock the engine in order to shift this bolt? Many thanks Matt
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Many thanks. I'll look at both options.
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I'm missing one of the courtesy light switches from the A posts. I can't find a replacement part for a Herald. Has anyone made another part fit? Paddocks sell one for a stag but it's very different. Thanks must be going ok if I'm messing around with light fittings. Many thanks Matt
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Is this the light green foam gasket? If so I have a spare. If you PM me I'll send it over. Matt
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Can anyone recommend a brand and style of tyres for my Herald 1200? Right now I have a set of Pirellis on which have plenty of tread but they are old and starting to crack.
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Thanks for this link. I really enjoyed watching. I could have done with this 4 years ago. It would have given me a lot more confidence with my rebuild. Manuals and books are great but there's nothing like actually seeing things being done.
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Thanks for all the help. I'll try the 1200 downpipe again today. I'm pretty certain it won't clear the sump though.
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No idea why that pic was so huge!
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Hi. I have uploaded a pic of the manifold on my car. Is this from a 1200? The Engine number is GD.117915HE which I thought was from a 12/50. Given the above. Which downpipe should I be fitting? The 1200 or the 12/50. I'd like to get this sorted with Paddocks today so I can get going this weekend. Thanks Matt
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I have a Herald 1200 but it has a 12/50 engine with a single solex carb. I had a replacement downpipe from Paddocks. I could not get it to fit. It was too tight against the sump. Paddocks weren't aware there were any differences between the 1200 and 12/50 exhausts until they looked into it. They now say the 12/50 is significantly different, and will exchange the parts. This is ok but the old downpipe i took off looks almost identical to the 1200 downpipe (possibly just 1/2 inch longer in the neck to the manifold). The new pipe they want to exchange has an earlier bend after the neck. I can't see how this will help or even fit. Can anyone clarify the right down-pipe for the 12/50. What are the differences? Thanks Matt
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I can send you pics of the remains of my spare bonnet if that would help. It's just taking up room in my already cramped garage. I'm in Sheffield. My project is a very slow process. Two main reasons. A lack of time and absolutely no experience. I am hoping to get the tub back on this weekend but I've been saying that for weeks now and I never get a chance to get any time on it. Once it looks like a car again I hope it will kick start the whole restoration. Matt
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Rather than take full panels from my donor bonnet I decided to make a series of small repairs to maintain the overall shape. Removing the stiffener around the headlamp from the donor was a real pig of a job. There area few pics on this link. Not sure if it's of any help. Probably not the best welder out there! http://triumphherald.weebly.com/boot-and-bonnet.html
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Cheers Bill. How much restistance would you expect once it's all fitted together? Should it move totally freely? I'll order a part now.
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I'm trying to sort out the clutch release arm. The whole set up was clogged up and not moving well. I have bought new a new tolerance ring and replaced one of the brass bushes that had broken off but i just can't get the thing to fit together. I seem am having to really drive the pivot pin into place. I imagine that the purpose of the tolerance ring is to fix it firmly in place but by the time I have got the pin through and into the brass bush the whole system seizes up worse than before. I'm not sure I understand the set up. Should the pin be free to move in the bushes. If this is the case I need a pin with a smaller diameter as the fit is too tight. Or, should the release arm be moving via the bushes rotating in the bell housing? I'm not sure I've explained this very well. I've attached some photos to show the damage I'm causing to the pivot pin driving it through the ring and bush.
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Apparently this carb was originally off a Reliant Robin or Vauxhall Viva
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I also have a Zenith carb on mine (30 1Z). I have been trying to track down some spare parts for it through Burlen Fuel Systems as I can't find any parts on the usual triumph suppliers. I need a new stranger return spring and gasket to the manifold. It was all working fine the last time the car ran (over 3 years ago now). I think I bust the spring whilst cleaning it up. I have attached photos. If anyone can help tracking down replacement parts I would be grateful. If not I might look at getting a second hand Solex so I can source replacements in the future.
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Hi Has anyone used the door bottom repair panels? I have been looking at the ones available from Paddocks. I wondered what the fit was like? Would I be better making and welding in patches? I'll be needing door bottom repairs too. I hoping these are pretty straight forward. I've attached pictures so you can see what I'm facing. There must be a quarter inch of filler in places. I bought two replacement doors but they are even worse! Cheers Matt
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Hi Has anyone used the door bottom repair panels? I have been looking at the ones available from Paddocks. I wondered what the fit was like? Would I be better making and welding in patches? I'll be needing door bottom repairs too. I hoping these are pretty straight forward. I've attached pictures so you can see what I'm facing. There must be a quarter inch of filler in places. I bought two replacement doors but they are even worse! Cheers Matt