V Mad

Can you explain how you came to that conclusion (pressure) please? The lower connection to the header is at the intake to the pump, so that would be the lowest pressure.  The top tank connection is at the top of the rad adjacent to the top hose which is at a high pressure point. That is what causes coolant (an any air in the system) to flow into the tank at the top, and out at the bottom. 

First eliminate ignition problems as the cause. Second, if you have a non-standard type fuel pump, then check the fuel pressure. Normal is 2.7 psi.  If it is much more than that it could be the cuase of hot starting problems.

This is a good tip.

If paying for a 'good' car that has been resprayed do not assume bodywork under the paint has been properly restored.  Get photgraphic evidence or recipts from a reputable specialist.  Same with engine, if possible get receipts from respected specialists.

I finally put the Lambda sensor boss on the vertical section of the downpipe for the left cylinder bank. Same here.  I am using a wideband sensor with AFR gauge.

I have my own design EFI running now using Stroms as the throttle bodies. 3D Nylon works fine but I have some made in Al as well. Any progress on yours?  Did you finish your project?

It looks like the inlet tracts are quite short, and that would not be good for torque.  It looks like a design where performance was compromised too much by cheapness.

Why not swap sides while doing this job?  I moved the choke cable to the RH side, and it is much easier there because it does not bend across the radio aperture, and easier to reach.

Just fit one sensor at the front downpipe should be good enough.  You could only use two if your ECU will be able to control mixtures individually on LH or RH side, and can identify which injectors feed each bank, and then control those individually. I am using two TB injectors so only need one Lambda sensor.

Just a mention that home market stags have two different advance curves.  Early (Mk1)  engines had much more advance than the later (Mk2) ones.  I noticed that changing from the Mk2 (41525) to a Mk1 (41336) type the engine pulls much more strongly. I wonder which you have fitted to yours?  Did you add extra advance to the 41525 or the 41336 type?

Excellent, thanks for your help Steve.  

Does anyone have access to a printed copy of the Stag Parts Manual?   I want to know if there is a diagram of the hood frame showing part number of the individual frame members.  Rimmers website shows fittings but only shows a part number for the complete frame.  

Hi Julian Sorry to go off topic, but I am interested in the mods to your stag.  You list 15in Revolutions, are they 5-spokes?   I would like a set of those.  Also Subaru R160 diff is unusual - any more info on how you did that?

Mine has only a right hand cable so I can pull from the drivers seat so I am living dangerously 😀.  I think Mk1 cars were built that way as Mk2 seem to have a left hand pull?

I have also experienced that problem with the stag alloys.