sam93
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Everything posted by sam93
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Thanks for the simplified explanation Marcus. I've decided to install it without any gasket. There's a reasonable amount of freedom for the gear to move and expand as required as the engine heats up.
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What do you mean by "add that thickness to your shim"? I thought the papergaskets were the shims. I've got two of each thickness; 0.006" and 0.020" Should the oil pump be bolted in place along with nuts to secure the pedestal, before measuring the gap?
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Hello all, After much head scratching I need to ask for some clarification on setting the distributor pedestal endfloat. I've got three sets of data from using three different thickness washers. Written as: Washer thickness (w), Gap (g) subtract them for the endfloat (e). 1) (w: 1.52mm) - (g: 0.94mm) = (e: 0.58mm) 2) (w: 2.40mm) - (g: 2.10mm) = (e: 0.30mm) 3) (w: 0.80mm) - (g: 0.43mm) = (e: 0.37mm) Where I get confused is; by adding gaskets that would make the gap smaller which makes the endfloat bigger? I cannot recall removing any gaskets and I'm also using one of Canley Classics alloy pedestals. Thanks in advance, Sam.
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What technique is used to take a skim off the input shaft housing on a Type 9 gearbox? Is it safe to remove the four bolts to remove the housing entirely? My thought was to take the housing off and pop it in the lathe? See pictures.
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Thanks for the info. I was thinking of something similar to your setup nick to try and reduce the bottle neck area of the oil galley. It's all come about as I've been rebuiling the engine (hence the yellow paint). I hit a problem with the small plugs. Couldn't install the new ones, as in my error I cleaned them up with a UNF tap. I'm going to have to oversize the rear most one as the thread has now broken away after trying a load test. Trouble being that I've only recently rebuilt the bottom end, so I'm looking at other improvements that can be carried out to the oil galley whilst I've got it apart again. There's some great info on the "new engine" thread that I found.
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Can anyone please advise me on drilling and tapping the hole which has the hammered in aluminium sealing plug on the 6cyl block? See photo. I want to convert to using a remotely located oil filter. On this note has anyone got a drawing of the blanking plate which will need to be manufactured? If not no problem, I'll figure it out from one of the spin-on filter adapters. Thanks all, Sam.
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Hi all, I'd like to pick up a second engine for my GT6 Mk3 to rebuild outside of the car and fit later in the year when it's off road for the winter. Has anyone got any leads? There's currently one on ebay, but the seller hasn't responded to my request for further information. Thanks in advance, Sam.
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Hello all, The exhaust manifold downpipe on my GT6 Mk3 is in dire need of replacement. Apologies in advance however I couldn't find the information that I wanted from previous threads. To keep it simple I've got a list of questions I'd like your thoughts on. Currently I've got the standard manifold & downpipe with a stainless centre section, y split & two boxes. I'm thinking of replacing it with a Maniflow exhaust manifold & either re-using the stainless bits that I've got or using the Canley classics single pipe big bore system. See links. As far as build quality goes, the maniflow manifold looks 100x better quality than the phoenix or rimmer equivalents. Questions. Has anyone had any experience with this maniflow exhaust manifold ? http://www.maniflow.co.uk/index.php?view=product&from=204&product=1518 Same question but for the canleys big bore system ? http://www.canleyclassics.com/engine/large-bore-straight-through-stainless-steel-exhaust-system The intake is provided through twin CDSE 150 Stromberg carbs, am I likely to upset the current tune by fitting a better gas flowing system? Thanks for your input.
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It was a while back. I had the newwer self adjusting type. In the end I gave with it, reverted back to the original type and got a full refund. I won't be doing the engine swap until the current one gives up. I only thought about it this evening as a ke engine has appeared on ebay not to far away from me. So didn't know if it was worth picking it up cheap just incase there was a known difference.
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I know that some 6cyl engines don't like the spin off oil filter conversion. My mk3 gt6, currently has a 2000 saloon mk2 engine fitted. It has great oil pressure with the standard oil filter setup, but has none with the spin off conversion. When I researched the issue before I was told that there was slight differences with the oil gallery maching, which caused the issue. Does anyone know if there's anyway of working out if the conversion will work judging by the engine number. This is because I want to install a replacement engine, with a correct mk3 engine number.
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Here's where I've installed my Huco fuel pump. There's a thick piece of metal behind the plate where the mech fuel pump would go, acting as a proper blank. Like you rightly said, i didn't bother fitting a cut out switch as I don't intend on driving so hard that there's a possibility of rolling it. I've also attached a picture of the replacement fusebox that I've installed, the wiring isn't connected as I've just finished a harness rebuild & have finished clipping it back into place. Hope it helps, Sam.
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Hello All, Once my rear suspension goes back together on my GT6 MK3, I'll be using adjustable Koni shocks. My question is what do people normally set them too ? I'm fitting Red Poly bushes & a 3/4" lowering block. Does anyone know where to get Red poly bushes for these too ? The kit I've ordered from canley's doesn't include "damper bushes" does that mean the rear shocks ? Thanks in advance, Sam.
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Driver side wheel hub.
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Hello All, I've got a few questions regarding my latest project. It started out as a few small bits of metalwork, but has kind of snowballed into something I'd planned to do just much sooner than first thought. Right then firstly, regarding the shims for setting the endfloat on the rear wheel bearings. I've dismantled both rotoflex couplings as required to replace the wheel bearings. Unless they have eluded me somehow, which I don't see how, I've not found any shims around the old wheel bearings which I've removed. So what can people recommend, in terms of buying a selection of these for when I build up the Canleys CV conversion driveshafts ? Next, the passenger side wheel hub, seems to have be ground / filed for some reason in the past. Doesn't look like damage from an aged wheel bearing though. See pictures what do you guys think ? The one which looks okay to me is from the drivers side. Is this going to be detrimental in anyway or should it be okay ? Going back to the CV conversion, anyone got any advice for this ? I gather the main tricky bit is just setting up the endfloat on the wheel bearings. Anyone know of a good step by step guide ? Thanks in advance, Sam.
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Hazards must work without ignition live. Indicators will require the ignition live though.
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Took the box out this afternoon, removed the bellhousing & found that the countershaft had been pulled back abit. Thankfully it was still holding onto the washer at the front, so a little bit of poking with a few screw drivers I managed to get the washer back where it should be, then tap the counter shaft forward as required. The rear extension is now refitted & I've continued rebuilding the box with the new gaskets I ordered. However I've run into a new issue which I could use some advice on. When refitting the top cover as per the manual it says to select first gear, place into position and put the setscrews in. That's all well and good but firstly when I removed the top cover I can't recall selecting first gear, I just wiggled it untill it came off. Secondly I can get the top cover located correctly using their method, however I can only jiggle it in / out of first gear. I can't select any other gears. What am I missing / not doing. Note the following, I've not disturbed anything other than the countershaft & the mainshaft rotates freely with the cover removed. When fitted it rotates but makes a clunking sound, so something isn't quite lining up but what ?
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May well have dropped out of the front of the gearbox casing : ( I had to use a pri bar to seperate the rear extension, so I could have pulled it back then. How do I get it back in at the front ?
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Hello all, Having issues refitting the rear extension back onto the gearbox casing. I've taken some measurements & the counter shaft seems to be too far back. I've got 35mm sticking out the back of the casing, but the recession which the counter shaft slots into in the rear extension only measures 25mm. I've tried tapping the counter shaft forwards, however no joy. So I then took the top of the gearbox to see if there was anything obviously out of place, but I could see much. I've still got the gearbox fitted to the car. What am I overlooking ? Thanks in advance, Sam.
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I first noticed the leak midway through last year when I had the car in stored in a friends garage for a while. About a month ago, I moved it back home & left it on my drive for a while whilst I was waiting for the garage at home to become available. It sat on the drive for about 2 weeks, in which time there wasn't any oil on the floor towards the back of the gearbox. It's now been in the garage for about 3 weeks or so and the other day I noticed a small amount of oil on the floor. That's how I've drawn to the conclusion that it only leaks when un-used. However, that's a fair point about it being burnt off on the exhaust. As I seem to remember seeing oil accumulated on the exhaust around the back of the gearbox. Which oil seal is the most likely culprit ? Or would you say pull the gearbox out and just change both ? I've currently got the interior out anyway.
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Evening all, I've been meaning to post about this for a while now. My GT6 MK3, when left stationary for more than 2 weeks or so, begins to leak oil from the gearbox. What strikes me as odd though, is that if the car is used is seems to stop leaking for a while at least before resuming. Is this likely to be the rear oil seal or the Speedo drive oil seal ? If so, how difficult would they be to change ? Thanks in advance, Sam.
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Got a few additional questions about this, 1) Anyone got a part number for a replacement bolt ? Had a look on canleys, but it's not very clear. 2) Are there any special precautions I should take before dissembling the rotoflex joint ? 3) Will I need a hub puller to separate the hub from the vertical link ? 4) Any other useful tips ?
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Hello All, With reference to the attached pictures, is it possible to change the mounting bolt which secures the bottom of the shock. Or do I need to fit a replacement vertical link ? As you can see, a previous owner has done one hell of a bodge ...
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DougBGT6, Can you elaborate on the topic of the gaskets ? I didn't have any additional holes to line up on the manifold when I fitted the carbs.
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Running last year well. Couldn't tune correctly as choke was on when off and vise versa. Fitted new cold start valve, now can't get it to start, unless someone simulates a manual choke by covering a proportion of the air inlets with their hands. Once started runs strongly but need to keep revs up or it dies. Got a good spark at each plug. After multiple starting attempts, the plugs smell faintly of fuel but are not wet with fuel. So I don't think it's getting enough fuel. Carbs have been fully rebuilt including new jets and needles. Manifold studs replaced, new gaskets & no air leaks present. Needles set fully rich choke also works as it should. At full choke only the first two holes on the cold start disc line up with the passageway on the carb. So to compensate I've enlarged the holes to allow more fuel through, which I believe to be equal to more rotation of the disc. What on the engine / cylinder head would you check first. Going to have a compression tester by the end of the week, so I'll get some figures up after. I've read that a cold compression test will not prove an awful lot ? Tried to summarize as best as possible. Need any more info let me know. I'm at a complete loss as to why it won't start. I bet it's something really simple which I've overlooked.