markcro
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Where is the solenoid shaft located? Can you spray it by crawling under the car easily?
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Where is the solenoid shaft located? Can you spray it by crawling under the car easily?
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I fitted a Huco suction one to my GT6 at the beginning of the summer, and so far it has worked out great! I made a plate up out of a sheet of steel that I found in work (a scuff guard from a door ). Just use the gasket from the mechanical pump as a template.
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Just something to check: as part of my months of search and heat shielding, I found that the voltage to my coil was varying with temp. Some days perfect, other days the voltage dropped way too low and that is when what I thought was vapourising was the issue. So check the voltage to the coil, or test with a cable directly from the batt to the coil. In the end I ran a new circuit directly to the coil.
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Nice clean car! Very clean!
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My thoughts: I was going to re-route the fuel line to behind the block as suggested. But after thinking about this for a while, I reckon the line at the back will soak up just as much heat as it will do at the front. If you think of it, the air comes through the rad into the front of the engine bay, flows back past the engine block and then hits the bulk head. So the average temp under the bonnet must be relatively the same no matter where you are in the bay. So in the end I left the fuel lines in their standard position around the front of the block but I insulated the entire run from the pump to the carbs. I just used rubber fuel line slit down the middle so that it fit snugly over the original copper lines and just cable tied it. It look neat as well. I also had no space to fit the Huco pump on the bulk head, so I mounted it to the side of the engine block in the original position but with a heat shield added between it and the block. This is just my thinking, I have no figures to back it up. P.s. Wow! The white chassis above is spotless! I would be embarrassed to show the oily, filthy, tar like state of mine!
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I have a clear filter fitted after the pump and it was always full of liquid petrol. On stopping the engine while hot the filter would quickly empty. Normally it wouldn’t empty. So that let me to believe that the fuel was boiling and creating back pressure to push the fuel back down out of the filter towards the fuel tank. So I would have said that boiling in the carbs was the big issue. Makes sense since the carbs are sitting over the exhaust manifold cooking like a frying pan.
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I spent some time on this last summer. I insulated the copper fuel lines from the fuel pump all the way to the carbs (I used rubber fuel line), I fitted carb heat shields and I exhaust wrapped the manifold and the entire down pipe back to the centre section. I also fitted an electric (Huco) fuel pump. It completely solved my hot start issues. I also note that it has drastically reduced under bonnet temperatures. (the gear stick used to get very warm on hot days but now it gets mildly warm) Since I did all of this in one hit I can’t say which was the most effective. But I would guess the electric fuel pump would have a big part to play.
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I am not sure to be honest, I'm just going with the advise of drofgum above after I described the shrink wrapped wires near the coil. But then again if someone removed the ballast resistor they may have just shrink wrapped the two wires together. But something in that circuit is dropping the voltage. But doesn't matter now as I've ran a new direct cable for full voltage.
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Thanks for that! That is the first time I got a clear indication of where to look and what one actually looks like. My car is a late Mk.3 which from the above were fitted with a ballast wire rather than a resistor. And this was the start of my problems as when I bought the car I couldn't find the ballast resistor so assumed it had none. I didn't know about a ballast wire. Anyway the whole lot is bypassed now so I'll see how she runs now. - System6, I can't answer the heating question, but the best way to find out what coil that you have fitted is to disconnect the connections and measure it's resistance with an Ohm meter. Roughly 3 Ohms is a 12v coil. And roughly 1.5 Ohms is a 6v coil. Then with the car running measure the voltage to the coil. I'm seeing the full 14.6v (coil terminal to battery -ve) and so I need to use at 12v coil. With the ballast wire in place I was seeing 10.4v but I am not sure if that is normal, but a 6v coil should have been used.
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Okay after been away for 2 weeks and then other things happening, I just got back to this today. I decided to completely bypass the resistor wire and wired in a new switched 12v wire directly from the battery +ve. I fitted a 3 way small fuse board with switched 12v feed a few months back for an electric fuel pump, so it was quick and easy to run a new feed to the coil. She then started on the button and purred like a kitten. Now a good drive will be the real test but when up to temp now I am reading a full 14.6v to the coil, rather than the previous 10.5v and dropping. So hopefully this is the end of this problem that I have been chasing on and off for the past 3 years! Oh and the coil is definitely a 12v and has a healthy 3 Ohms. I did notice that with full electrical load on the voltage dropped to around 12.4v. 2.2v drop. Does that mean that the alternator is getting tired or is that normal? (Original alternator at tick over).
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Thanks guys for your replies. I will answer your questions all in this one reply. - Yes I was measuring the coil voltage with the engine running. - The +ve to the coil is a single white/yellow wire. I note that the loom under the coil has a join sticking out which is shrink wrapped. The join is two white/yellow wires joining to a white/pink wire. Also I see a similar shrink wrapped join near the fuse box- a white/pink wire joining to a white wire. To chase these back to their feed I presume there is no easy way but to cut open the loom and follow the wire back that way? - Can you measure the voltage at the alternator while the engine is running? :Where do I take the measurement on the alternator from? Is this not the same as from the battery +ve terminal? - Can you measure the voltage between the coil + terminal and the battery +ve terminal with the engine running? Should be sub 1 volt ish. : I'm off to Barcelona in the morning so won't be back to take measurements until next weekend... but also Just one other thing to add; the last time when I was taking measurements and I had a full electrical load on the engine (main beams, fans etc. on), the coil voltage dropped to 10.4 v (battery +ve voltage was 13.5v) and the engine was really struggling to idle and not cut out. So as a test I connected a cable directly from the battery +ve to the coil +ve and she instantly ran sweet......... Cheers all, I appreciate the input.
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Hmmm, so maybe the alternator then? I would say that it is original and untouched from new, so may be getting tired..... But the thing is that when I measure the voltage to the coil dropping down to 10.5, the voltage to the battery remains as 13.8v.... And the voltage drop to the coil is a slow drop down: 13.45v....13.3...13.2....etc. I can see it slowly drop all the way down. Switching on electrical items makes it worse but yet the voltage to the battery remains at 13.8v.
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Can anyone tell me where the ballast resistor (says "wire" in the manual) is on a late Mk.3 GT6? And what does it look like. The manual says that my GT6 should have a ballast wire and should use a 6v coil. I've had my GT6 about 8 years now and when I first bought her I measured a constant 12v (13.8v)to the coil so I assumed that someone must have removed the ballast at some point. And so I replaced the coil for a 12v one. She has ran lovely ever since. But since last year I have been chasing an intermittant fault which causes her to run like a bag of bolts from time to time. When she comes up to temp and is ran for some time I can measure the voltage to the coil dropping from 13.8 v down to 10.5 and below. Once the voltage drops to 10.5 the engine struggles. And will not restart when hot. I have replaced the ignition switch which has fixed the hot start issue but not the main cause. Looking at the electrical schematics I see that the only thing left is the ballast wire (if still in place) or maybe bad connection if it was once removed. Alternatively I am now just temped to run a new switched live feed to the coil and be done with it once and for all..... Or is there any way that the alternator could be an issue? Although it gives a full 13.8v to the battery.
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My ignition light glows at idle but I'm measuring 13.8v at the battery. Is this an issue?