John Bonnett
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Everything posted by John Bonnett
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Now, you have my interest because I'm also looking to up the power of my 1300 to a usable and reliable 100 horse power.
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8778 wrote:Out of interest John, what is your spring wrapped in? Never seen that before. I dismantled the spring and lubricated with a lot of graphite grease, reassembled it and then wrapped it in Denso tape. the idea being to keep the damp out and the grease in. and it works!
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James Paddock also sell them @ £14. I bought a pair when I rebuilt my GT6. http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?categoryID=22&vehicleId=4 These are the only pictures I have showing the solid pipe. I hope they may be of some help.
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3815 wrote:Don't suppose anyone knows what the difference is between the shocks that are sold by the tssc that are listed with the upper mount bracket and the standard ones. Both gaz shocks. Are we talking rear dampers? If so, they offer one type with the bracket for mounting the damper to the chassis on a Rotoflex car and the other type which goes to the mount in the standard position in the inner wheel arch.
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Removing flexible brake pipes to front discs
John Bonnett replied to Hexaflexagon's topic in Running Gear
9091 wrote:Hi, As far as I can see the only way to disconnect the flexible brake fluid pipe from the front disc caliper is to remove the caliper first and then unscrew the whole caliper from the pipe. The pipe is crimped to the end metal connector that contains the nut and hence turning the nut starts to twist the pipe. Is this the only way? A supplementary question,. What's the best way of preventing fluid from running out once the pipe is disconnected. I've seen mention of clamping it with a mole wrench but am worried that the teeth of the wrench might damage the pipe. Have a look at the other end of the flexible where it joins the solid pipe. There should be a rotatable female union the you can undo and once that's done you can unscrew the flexible from the caliper. -
4187 wrote:John, what is that green cable next to the earth wire in the second picture please? The green is a direct feed Benny that doesn't come via the switch. It's for the parking arrangement which is different from the single speed motor.
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Benny, confirming as I mentioned in my PM, the blue wire does indeed go to earth. It connects to the black on the plug and the cable emerges from the loom and is fixed using an eyelet to one of the screws holding the motor down. It does sound as if the windings have gone down to earth which is exactly what happened to mine with the same symptoms. A new motor less the gear wheel is reasonably priced.
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796 wrote:John, would a long taper tap not av sufficed. as the taper would be cutting before the main cutters. I got some long taper,ns that can take oot a 1/4 hole to 1/2 inch. as the taper end is so tapered, they great , cos ye no need a drill. M Sounds like a good tool Marcus. I think the beginning and the end of the problem is that the material the spider is made of is very very hard as Chris has stated.
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Well, I've persevered with a pilot drill and HSS tap and finally succeeded in restoring the threads so that a bolt will screw in. A struggle but we got there in the end.
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Nick_Jones wrote:John, If you are talking about the actual doughnut attachment holes on the outer section of the shaft (which is the shorter piece) I'm having trouble visualising what the problem is. Possibly the car was run with the bolts loose and they have been moving laterally. Prospects for a satisfactory recovery don't sound all that great. To make the drill follow your chosen path it'll help if the part is really firmly mounted in a proper pillar drill. Might help to sneak up on your chosen size with a couple of slightly smaller drills. Failing that, a suitable size end mill in a milling machine. Still a bit concerned that the damage means that the part is compromised even if you do succeed in your mission. If you get stuck, I think I still have a few of these in storage....... (Yeovil so not so very far and I go to Cornwall fairly frequently) Cheers Nick Very kind of you Nick thank you very much for your offer which I may well be grateful take up. I agree it's all a bit odd but both shafts had the same problem but one more than the other. They came with the rest of the junk so I have no idea of their history. They certainly looked good enough to use and I had them shot blasted and powder coated. When I couldn't screw in a bolt (the one that fixes the spider to the doughnut) I suspected dirt on the threads and a clean out with a 1/2"UNF tap would do the trick. However as the tap was screwed further and further in it got tighter and tighter. It wasn't cutting a thread but I'm sure the reason it tightened up was because the hole was bent. This was confirmed when after screwing in a bolt as far as I could, it came out bent. I have managed to get the tap through all three holes on one of the spiders but so far not on the other. You may well be right that they had been run with the bolts loose. All very odd.
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796 wrote:what threaded holes are we on aboot. like exactly where are thee,s holes at. VL, or actuall drive shaft. !!! If its the spider roto holes, then they will tek some bending, as the 1/2 inch Markus Baffledikussed :-/ I knew I should have used pictures :) :)
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Richard_B wrote:Sounds like you need a placement part. Going to Stoneleigh? :-/ I shall be there Richard and certainly a replacement is an option. However, from an engineering point of view, I would really like to know how to rectify the problem. One answer I guess would be to bore out oversize, tap and screw in a dowel, weld in place and then drill and tap 1/2"UNF.
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I'm talking about the short driveshaft. The threaded holes have been bent and are no longer straight. Uding a pilot drill is no good as it just bends and follows the hole. A tap which will not bend comes to the point where it will go no further. I just wondered if anyone else had encountered this problem.
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7952 wrote:Wow John, you've really taken that GT6 down to it's bare nothings. Do you have a rebuild blog or m ore photos/details of your build? Yes I do have a lot of photos, thousands in fact, of the build many of which are shown in my thread in the Specials section. Obviously this is a bit more radical than most rebuilds because I didn't have a complete shell to start with. I started with sections from three different vehicles which certainly didn't make the job any easier :)
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8112 wrote:Thanks John, appreciate the pics and comments, must say that's scary:-) I am hoping to spend a few hours this weekend, I have taken more pics, so will hopefully post some soon. Looking forward to seeing your pictures,
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cliftyhanger wrote:Oh, and John s tyre is a historic Michelin xas. Probably very premium in cost I suspect. No argument there Clive :) :)
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6976 wrote: Thanks John - what make are they? How do they handle? They are Michelin XAS and are fitted to the Lotus Elan. I'm hopeful that they will compliment the handling of my project.
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6976 wrote:Thank you for the replies. I'm looking for a premium brand - which ones do people prefer. Which handle best etc... ? These are H rated and definitely "Premium" :)
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8112 wrote:Does anybody have any advice and pics relating to the best way to replace a GT6 rear inner wheel arch? Thx Here are a couple of pictures which I hope will be of some help. I'm really enjoying your thread. You must be very pleased with how it's going. regards John
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7932 wrote:I second that! Park Lane. I have their foams, they are excellent and I'm now sorely tempted by their leathers. Have a look on the site, some good pictures. I too am sorely tempted by their leather option in fact so tempted that I can feel myself falling :P
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8559 wrote:I am looking to recover/refurb my low back Mk3 seats, preferably in leather, and only seem to find two suppliers - Newtons for the foams, and Gabbat & Brown for leather covers plus "refurb" kit. Does anyone have any alternative suggestions, or experiences of the available replacement covers etc please. Looking at Rimmers, it looks like I could soend £25 just buying 50 edge clips, etc. Many thanks I believe Park Lane Classics are well thought of and certainly, the foams I bought from them for my GT6 MK3 seats were beautifully made, fitted perfectly and were supported with excellent instructions. http://www.parklaneclassics.co.uk/
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8112 wrote:Its been a while and to be honest i have been sorely tempted to sell and purchase a fhc TR7 thats in the road, however i Went into the garage today and decided to remove the Webasto sunroof and begin the roof rub down. Here are some pics as you can see from the second pic half is now down to bare metal. So that makes the main section of the bonnet and half the roof back to bare metal. Plan is to get the roof fully striped back to the lights before the weekends out. Now I have removed the webasto I am considering returning the roof to full steel as it came out of the factory. has anyone undertaken this? Is it a case of replacing the full roof section or could a panel section be welded in. Alternatively I install a new webasto. If you do decide to weld in a new panel to blank off the aperture, I know that Tavistock Steve has a couple of GT6 roofs at the moment. There are two ways of doing the job. Either fit a complete new roof from the windscreen frame back to the tailgate aperture or cut a section half an inch wider all round than the aperture and joggle an edge (1mm step). You can then push the panel up from underneath have a flush joint on top and have the strength of double thickness underneath. This should get round the distortion problem when welding. Do drop me a PM if I can help.
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8017 wrote: Yes John correct as the Rotoflex ones are too long for use with the chassis mounting conversion brackets ;) Cheers Hugh Many thanks for that Hugh, John
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My project will be Rotoflex and I'm going for the chassis mounted damper conversion. It is my understanding that the correct dampers for the conversion are the ones from a MK3 non-Rotoflex car. I'd be grateful if somebody would confirm this before I order please. Thank you John
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AndyF wrote:I know when I was faced with repairing or buying new, I decided to repair because of cost. Second hand wings were expensive and even today command up to £500 per wing. How much would a new aluminium wing cost me today? Apart from the difference in material cost (£20 for a sheet of 1mm steel and £50 for a sheet of 1.5mm NS3 aluminium) it costs no more to make in aluminium than steel.