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Northernstar002

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Everything posted by Northernstar002

  1. Northernstar002
    Just did a quick search on black circles and Dunlops are coming out at £50, Hankooks at £48ish...
  2. Northernstar002
    Thanks all for your thoughts. This is the main website, if i'm allowed to post it...https://www.jclarkemarine.com/ The blogs section gives more info
  3. Northernstar002
    Hi, Has anyone used these Turn-button fasteners / common sense fasteners for their tonneau / soft top? DOT - Turnbutton 8mm kit with screws common sense fastener boat canopy cover (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOT-Turnbutton-8mm-kit-with-screws-common-sense-fastener-boat-canopy-cover/191261502376?epid=1788627957&hash=item2c8812eba8:g:BIwAAOSwAKxWWErY&frcectupt=true) I'm fed up with my plastic press stud types as they are getting brittle and the metal ones are very hard to pop. Cheers,    
  4. Northernstar002
    I've contacted 8 online retailers; Rimmers, Canleys, ANG, Robsport, Leacy, James Paddock, Jag Spares and Moss-europe. I did this just by googling the part number and making my way through. Most haven't responded, those who did didn't have any stock to measure against, ANG's kit was too short (17 - 18 mm) but the winner is: James Paddock! Not only did they get back the quickest, but their thread length is 25 - 30mm which is exactly what my mechanic is saying he needs. They are also among the cheapest at £8.95, plus postage of £5. So they get my order. Hopefully this might save you all a bit of time when you need to replace your choke cables...
  5. Northernstar002
    Hi, Is anyone else having trouble getting hold or a choke cable that fits? I'm struggling to find one that has enough thread to reach through the wooden dash, accommodate the bezel and have enough for the securing nut behind. I'm having one sent from ANG from fleabay and they have advised that the threaded part on the knob fitting is about 17 - 18 mm.  My Spit is currently at my mechanic on the rolling road and he states: "The wood plus the metal frame it sits on is around 15/16 mm. Plus the washer for the nut and there’s just not quite enough thread for the nut to screw onto it. " The one from ANG is a specific Triumph Spitfire mk4, Dolomite item and the advert states that it conforms to the original part number Where do you get your replacements?
  6. Northernstar002
    How did this turn out in the end? May do the same thing in the coming months.
  7. Northernstar002
    Brilliant,  I presume this is printed on the belt somewhere?
  8. Northernstar002
    I have a 1974 mk4 1300 Spitfire. I don't know if our fan belts come in different lengths but I've been looking into the alternator tensioners as an alternative to the standard bracket. From the centre of the bolt near the thermostat to the bolt on the alternator when properly tensioned I'm getting 75mm. For any of the tensioners this is way too short. Many other applications are looking at 85mm minimum.   The way around this is to fit a slightly longer belt, but I'd like someone to confirm if the belts actually come in different sizes, and if so, what the part numbers could be.   Cheers,
  9. Northernstar002
    I've contacted the seller to see if he can accommodate my size. For ref, the measurements for mine (centres between the bracket bolt and the bolt on the alternator) is 75mm.
  10. Northernstar002
    Awesome... Many thanks for the replies everyone. I'll let you know how it turns out if you like. Cheers,
  11. Northernstar002
    Awesome... Many thanks for the replies everyone. I'll let you know how it turns out if you like. Cheers,
  12. Northernstar002
    Bump, I'm guessing that M8 size would fit the 1300 spit? Is this the nearest size to the bolt that holds the bracket to the water pump area? Does anyone have a measurement from the centre of the bracket bolt to the alternator bolt? I'll compare this with mine and then let the supplier know... I just need someone's opinion....
  13. Northernstar002
    Hi all, Has anyone used these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pinto-Alternator-Adjuster-Belt-Tensioner-Bracket-Ford-Kitcar-Mk-12-rally-race-M8/282921117497?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 They look pretty good, so I contacted the seller on his Facebook page to see if he has any that fit a Spitfire (you'll notice that the add shows that a Triumph TR6 is an application). He told me that, to make make sure, he'd need the distance between the centres of the nut bracket and the nut on the alternator when tensioned and whether the bolts would be M8 or M10 (even though ours are imperial - well, perhaps not the alternator if you've replaced it). Can anyone supply this information? Cheers,
  14. Northernstar002
    Hi Alec, Thanks for that. I received steps on how to do this with the kit so I'll get on that tonight and see what I can do. cheers,
  15. Northernstar002
    Afternoon, Just bought a twin carb refurb kit from Holden.co.uk. very cheap at £34 for both carbs. I had a problem with my old jets in that they were stuck fast in place and the choke cable couldnt budge them. The new ones seem to fit well but they are not returning fully by themselves. With a little push upwards by the finger they return but I cant be doing that on every cold morning. Do I need to re-centre the needle? Do I need new return springs? Thanks for any comments,
  16. Northernstar002
    Afternoon, Looking to replace the front discs and callipers on my '74 mk4 1300 as the discs are rusted quite badly and the callipers appear to be sticking on. Nothing fancy or racy, just standard road brakes. The car has been stood for 4 years so the pistons are probably rusted to hell. I haven’t had them apart yet but since I sheared off the nearside bleed nipple I thought I'd replace bother rather than repair. I guess the discs could come back to life. Also, I have just replaced both rear slave cylinders too and have noticed that the near side rear (the only one I have checked) slave's piston appears to stay out. All the pipes looks good and they are not kinked. Could this be the master cylinder? It's as old as the car is. When I have been looking for prices I haven’t been sure exactly which one mine is - none of the ones I see for sale look similar. Did my age and model come with single or dual circuit? So, where does everyone suggest I go to? Who's had the best experiences with which suppliers?
  17. Northernstar002
    Thanks everyone. I'll have a crack myself first and let them fix or reassemble the bits :)
  18. Northernstar002
    Afternoon all, Does anyone know or can recommend a place in Wiltshire (as close to Bath as possible) who can refurbish a set of twin SUs for the 1300 mk4 spit? Is there anyone on this forum who is both able and inclined? Cheers,
  19. Northernstar002
    Had a good fiddle last night. Went to connect up the battery to ensure it was still happening (all wires connected at this point), heard the familiar click but nothing else. Went to use the key in the ignition lock and wouldnt you know it? Darned thing is now working perfectly - so, sticky solenoid. Is it just a case of it needs to be used and it'll get better with use? Or shouldnt I trust it?
  20. Northernstar002
    Had a good fiddle last night. Went to connect up the battery to ensure it was still happening (all wires connected at this point), heard the familiar click but nothing else. Went to use the key in the ignition lock and wouldnt you know it? Darned thing is now working perfectly - so, sticky solenoid. Is it just a case of it needs to be used and it'll get better with use? Or shouldnt I trust it?
  21. Northernstar002
    Thanks all, really useful and helpful as always. I can confirm that the solenoid connections on the poles are: bottom nut connection goes straight to the starter - nothing else connected here. Top nut connection goes to the battery. All brown wires hang off here too (from memory) the two smaller spades connect to the coil and the dizzy (again from memory). Bit annoyed as the solenoid was new and this is the first time its been used.
  22. Northernstar002
    Thanks all, really useful and helpful as always. I can confirm that the solenoid connections on the poles are: bottom nut connection goes straight to the starter - nothing else connected here. Top nut connection goes to the battery. All brown wires hang off here too (from memory) the two smaller spades connect to the coil and the dizzy (again from memory). Bit annoyed as the solenoid was new and this is the first time its been used.
  23. Northernstar002
    Morning All, Got a problem which I havent experienced before. Got a decent battery and a new solenoid (the solenoid has been fitted for about 6 months but I havent turned the engine until now). Got almost everything ready following the resotration so I went to fit the battery to go about testing the lights and other electrical systems and even though the key was out of the ignition barrel (and in the off position) the engine immediatley started turning as soon as the battery contacts were made. I've checked the ignition barrel and everything is fine - I havent touched the wiring there and it's not stuck in the start position. I wired the new solenoid exactly as the old one was - done side by side so thats ok. So, I'm guessing that the solenoid is fused or stuck in the 'start' position? Cheers,
  24. Northernstar002
    Morning All, Got a problem which I havent experienced before. Got a decent battery and a new solenoid (the solenoid has been fitted for about 6 months but I havent turned the engine until now). Got almost everything ready following the resotration so I went to fit the battery to go about testing the lights and other electrical systems and even though the key was out of the ignition barrel (and in the off position) the engine immediatley started turning as soon as the battery contacts were made. I've checked the ignition barrel and everything is fine - I havent touched the wiring there and it's not stuck in the start position. I wired the new solenoid exactly as the old one was - done side by side so thats ok. So, I'm guessing that the solenoid is fused or stuck in the 'start' position? Cheers,
  25. Northernstar002
    Hi all, When pushing my Spit (from the front) backwards on full right lock at the weekend, I noticed the the right hand front wheel seemed to be skipping, as if it were being dragged sideways as the car was turning. It's difficult to explain with words but it seems like it needed to turn more to travel along the direction it was being rolled in. Is this a normal thing or is something out of allignment or require adjustment? Cheers,
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