Antonnick

Yes that does seem to be the part I Need. and a roll is a good idea to do the front as well as the other door. Thankyou for that, I could not decipher the "Canley codes". 🙂 However, from the description, the T12 is the steel channel assembly itself, is it not? I think a roll of the "12" is probably the right one but I do not Need 30 m

Yes that does seem to be the part I Need. and a roll is a good idea to do the front as well as the other door. Thankyou for that, I could not decipher the "Canley codes". 🙂

I recently renovated the doors on my 13/60 Herald replacing the wind up mechanisms. Before the Windows were almost impossible to wind up and the rear window channel Fixing lug on one side was broken. Simple welding Job to fix it. Now inside the channel were the remains of some stuff, maybe hardened felt I do not know. I scraped it all out and rustproffed the channel before replacing it. However, without this "infill" the window Rattles a lot when wound down. I have tried to find out what this infill is to order new but the normal suppliers do not seem to list it - or maybe they do but under another Name. Anyone put me in the right direction for the correct item ?

When you made this, did you Change the flange(s) on the diff itself or on the propshaft/ half shafts?

Before drawing conclusions, perhaps the wrong ones, do the checks which the old Lucas fault finding recommends http://herald-tips-tricks.wdfi.....Service%20Manual.pdf

I thought it a bit strange when I purchased my 13/60 last week that the battery was positively earthed. Having now checked the available Information, this is indeed wrong. But can you simply Change over to what it should be, i.e negative earth. The car does have some Minor electrical Problems e.g fuel gauge not recording full, and perhaps that is the reason why the battery discharged so quickly when the lights were on! Surely the Dynamo would be unhappy to be producing power the wrong way round?? any advice welcome 🙁