iomgt6

hi all, sorry if this has been asked before but what grade of oil should be used, 1971 gt6, thanks, paul

Hi all, I have delayed in replying as I have now sorted the problem fitted new spark plugs, fuel system is now electric pump and filter in the boot with braided hose running offside straight to carb, I also realized the accuspark coil should not have a voltage stabilizer, they do 2 types a red or blue coil, blue is with stabilizer red not, they had sent me a red, I believe this was the main cause of the problem, removed the stabilizer altered the wiring and now she runs lovely,, another mystery solved, thanks for all your replies, Paul.  

Hi all, I have delayed in replying as I have now sorted the problem fitted new spark plugs, fuel system is now electric pump and filter in the boot with braided hose running offside straight to carb, I also realized the accuspark coil should not have a voltage stabilizer, they do 2 types a red or blue coil, blue is with stabilizer red not, they had sent me a red, I believe this was the main cause of the problem, removed the stabilizer altered the wiring and now she runs lovely,, another mystery solved, thanks for all your replies, Paul.  

Hi all, I have delayed in replying as I have now sorted the problem fitted new spark plugs, fuel system is now electric pump and filter in the boot with braided hose running offside straight to carb, I also realized the accuspark coil should not have a voltage stabilizer, they do 2 types a red or blue coil, blue is with stabilizer red not, they had sent me a red, I believe this was the main cause of the problem, removed the stabilizer altered the wiring and now she runs lovely,, another mystery solved, thanks for all your replies, Paul.  

are right, accuspark fitted new with rotor arm and power coil, timing done at 6 deg btdc and re-checked, advance vaccum working ok from carbs, spark plugs correct grade and read a nice auburn colour, engine temp normal all the time as power fan comes on when needed, it used to over heat until fitting of alum rad and unblocking of water ways, power fan creates the heat under bonnet, so engine overheat is not the problem, new mechanical fuel pump fitted, my thought on fuel vapour lock is mainly because when the rad fan comes on (which is a sucker fan) the heat that it blows from the fan when on is a lot and its blowing onto the fuel pipe that runs round the front of the engine and the fuel filter,  carbs are getting hot (HS6's) especially the front one, I do have heat shields on them, as I mentioned before the fuel filter (see through) sometimes seems low in fuel another time seems full, now I have stopped the car engine off the fuel looks low in the filter then going back sometime later without touching the car the filter looks quite full as though fuel has come though as its cooled off, strange eh, thoughts please, Paul.

hi glang, yes I have seen it mentioned that someone on here did remove a section of the seal to try to improve the problem but don't know the result, thanks for reply, Paul.  

Hi All, don't know if this has been covered before but I am thinking of fitting plastic louvers to the bonnet to try to get rid of some heat, I am a little reluctant but I am suffering from fuel vapour lock (I think) , the car runs fine but after 3 to 4 miles I start to get an irregular misfire which gradually gets worse, I notice looking at the see through fuel filter, fuel looks low, then looking again with the engine off it can look full again,  I have just fitted another fuel pump (mechanical) as I thought that was faulty, the engine is not overheating as I have installed a very powerful electric fan, trouble is the fan when it comes on blows that much heat around under the bonnet everything feels hot including the carbs, all thoughts gratefully received so thanks in advance, Paul

ok thanks for comments, did the timing again and looks like it was retarded strange as I had fitted electronic ignition not long ago and did the timing then, I also noticed the small pipe from the carbs to the dizzy was off at the carbs end, haven't tried the car yet as raining hopefully this will have sorted it, I have been thinking of fitting the phoenix manifold anyway so is this a good mod it would be the 6-3-1 version and will it fit my current exhaust its the usual stainless split to 2 pipes at the back thanks again. Paul

Hi All, seriously thinking of buying the phoenix exhaust manifold as I have I think I may have a problem with gasses not getting away quick enough, don't know whats in the engine as it was rebuilt before I bought, the guy I bought it off doesn't know either, now the engine is fitted with twin SU HS6 carbs, why I think the gasses aren't getting away is I get a loud explosion from within the engine bay, engine, last time out I had 2 bangs simultaniously and the engine stopped, leaving it to cool down for 10 minutes it then started ok, so I ask is the engine being over carbbed, although checking plugs they have a nice ebony colour on the tips but black sooty around the perimeter, the plugs are NGK equivalent to cham N9Y. my final question is if I fit the Pheonix would you put exhaust bandage on or not and why, thanks for any replies, Paul.  

hi Glyn, sorry just picked up your message, I have these on ebay at the moment my user name on there is pauljanben, regards paul

hi Andy, have you sorted the uprights out, I have a pair which I have taken off my gt6 mk3 rotoflex they seem in pretty good order, I have fitted alum ones to my car so no longer need these, Paul

Hi All, I have 165/70 x 13 on front and 175/70 x13 on rear alloys what pressure should I put in these for general driving, the manual states 20 psi front and 24 psi rear but of course this is for standard wheels, what is the max width wheel size I could put on the rear without modifying arches, finally would the car handle better with a larger diameter wheel and low profile tyre but maintain speedo accuracy, sorry if this has been asked before, grateful for your thoughts, Paul

have just noticed a fibreglass bonnet for sale for GT6 wondering if anyone has any views on this, I am thinking that it might be a good weight saver and rust prevention.

Hi all, my gt6 mk3 1971 seems to have a curious bonnet fitted, it would appear the power bulge is made of fibreglass, the rest of the bonnet is steel but looking on the underside the hole for the power bulge in the steel is like an elongated elliptical shape that is not the shape or size of the power bulge, I now believe this is not a standard gt6 bonnet so what is it, what your thought people, Paul.

Hi all, thanks for replies, been busy marshalling IOM TT, anyway Paudman, work done by a Birmingham company old family business and I have to say very pleased, I had some minor dents in the front bumper the owners son took them on and I cant tell now where they were, Castle Chrome, Dudley, West Midlands, I am in no way involved with this company but would certainly recommend them, realistic prices too.

Hi all, just had all my chrome work re-chromed and wondering what is the best way to protect for the future, I realise that if it gets wet then dry it off before garaging but any advice on protective sprays etc, thanks all, Paul

thanks for reply "glang" and explanation, yes I might try the disconnect idea, Ive taken the servo off the car and noticed the outlet looked as thou the bit of fluid around the outlet was rusty colour, I now suspect that the shuttle valve you mention my be stuck so a decision will have to be made, strip but I don't know if parts are available or bite the bullet and buy new.

Hi All,  sorry if this has been asked before but I cant understand how an independent brake servo works, I understand how one can work that is linked direct to the brake pedal, secondly my GT6 mk3 is fitted with one, it looks pretty new and I know the seal is ok as I have now removed it and when I opening it a lot of air came out, the reason I removed from car was I suspected it wasn't working as I had done the simple test of starting the engine with foot on brake pedal and felt no difference, the brake pedal always feels firm and requires quite a lot of force but I can lock the wheels up at low speed, also I notice on ebay there are different specs for these units ie 2.3 to 1 etc, what would be most suitable, many thanks Paul

Many thanks Cookie, will follow your pattern, Paul

Hi all, I did search this subject and it came up on the Vitesse forum which I posted on, however asking fellow gt6 experts, gt6 mk3 1971, I am getting rid of the rotoflex converting to Rimmers CV drive shafts, Canley's alum vertical links, bearings and shims, as the spacers are now longer available I will have to use the ones I took off by thinning those as necessary with the shims, now my question is actually checking end float, am I correct in thinking that I need  to assemble the drive shafts to diff and vertical link with all bearings, brake back plate and hub, put a dial indicator on the face of the hub and check the end float, how, do you lever somewhere or pull the hub with your hands, surely by doing this you would be just moving the whole unit all over the place so to speak and not getting a true reading, also do I leave the grease out (hubs) until I know its right, confused on methods basically, thanks in advance of any help, Paul 

Hi all, just picked up this thread as I'm about to tackle this job, I am converting to CV joints getting rid of the rotoflex, bought the new units off Rimmers and alum vertical links off Canley's with bearings and shims, now spacer washers are now longer available, so I will use the ones removed with the shims, so now my question is do I assemble the hole axle complete with hub with just the spacer in and then check end float by putting a dial indicator on the face of the hub and levering somewhere, then have to strip it all down again to shim, is this the correct plan, thanks in advance of any help received, Paul, oh car mk3 GT6 1971.

I've just had both bumpers rechromed with other parts, although I live in the Isle of Man, I took them to a company I sourced in Birmingham called Castle chrome, I had a few small dents  in the front bumper they posted all the parts back to me by carrier, and I have to say I was amazed, I cannot see anywhere on the bumper where the dents were, very pleased with the quality and service, this is not an advert, I am in no way connected to this company

ah, I'm back, having had major problems getting onto this new site, however an update, oh boy fitted new uprated springs to new Gaz dampers, looking good until I shut the bonnet, wheel arches resting on tyres, oh hell, stripped the suspension down again, the seats on the Gaz dampers are 1/2" lower than the standard, fitted standard dampers on with new uprated springs, gives me 1/4" gap tyre to wheel arch, no good, so bought under spring spacers when they arrived they wouldn't fit onto damper and also oversize to the I/d of spring, so no good, bit the bullet bought Spax adjustable ride height, fitted them with said springs to find 1/2" gap arch to tyre at the Spax full height adjustment, so still no good, all this has become a nightmare, my iom government test is Thursday this week and I still have no front suspension, at the moment my only hope is put  it all back together with 1/2" arch to tyre gap and turn up the damper to try to stop tyre catching arch just to get through the test...........have others had these problems as when I read people have fitted uprated springs with standard dampers it gives the impression they have been fitted straight on with no problems, which makes me wonder if there is something amiss with my car also I bought the top adjustable wishbones so to help set camber, nicely made but I have had to adjust to their maximum to get the 2.3/4 neg camber with a shim under all corners so defeating the object of the adjustable wishbones, why did I buy this car!!.  

update, having now removed the old spring from damper I couldn't believe the length of it, it's 3 inches longer than the new one, so all's well with the new spring however fitting the new spring to Gaz shock ( bought Gaz as a lot on here seem against Spax cant afford Koni and the wife said as I had spent so much on this car, I needed to buy Her something Gold) its fractionally loose anyway thought this would be alright once the pressure is on it, so I lowered the car and the spring slipped out of the top pan, there are no spacers fitted so any suggestions on this little problem, thanks Paul

thanks once again for replies, frustration is now setting in big time, my new Canley springs have arrived 330lb 1" lower, I have taken the old spring/damper unit off the car the spring looks identical to the new one although I have not stripped the old down yet (waiting for compression tools to arrive) the new spring has the same amount of coils is the same thickness of spring 1/2" and dia is the same, the length of the new spring is about 1/2" longer than the old (in its assembled form), conclusion is the car already has uprated springs but looking at EFP's earlier thread the dimensions against my earlier thread dimn leaves me baffled as mine are clearly longer, I have ordered new shocks which are fixed seat so fitting the new springs are not going to achieve the lowered car effect, the new springs cost me £25 delivery as I live in the Isle of Man so looking like expensive loss, the car had a full body off restoration 9 years ago so I don't know what was done with improvements etc, having now spent 12,000 total to date and 10 months of solid work (i'm retired) driving the car is horrible, its a shame as the body/ chassis is totally rust and filler free, well I'll fit the new suspension and do the alignments, see how we go from there, bought shims for camber castor, currently there is one shim only on all four lower wishbone bolts. I have bought the 2 laser levels to align the car finding the centre line off the chassis as I have stripped the rear wishbones off to fit polybushes so not sure of the rear wheel alignment to the chassis centre, Paul