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Found it. Easier to scan and post the chassis drawing. It's before the bridge was put between the two rear shock supports. Herald chassis.pdf Herald chassis dimensions.pdf

Check my recent posts, I put a link on for a download version, someone also put a link on for the Vitesse version I think there is a dimensioned drawing for the chassis in my manuals, if you want it I will look for it and post it?

Recently someone posted requesting rear suspension dimensions, the attached is for the Herald. Source; Workshop Manual, part number 508512 Hope it helps? Herald rear suspension.pdf

From my experience of chassis numbers on Triumphs my first Herald 12/50 (1963 reg) purchased in 1974 had a plate with a number stamped on it welded to the chassis above the cross member running across the car UNDER the sump, so not visible! All later TSSC type cars I have owned, mainly Heralds don't or didn't have that plate on the chassis. So, in theory, just tell them the plate is on the chassis beneath the sump.

That was my main reason for asking, chainsaws etc. As for my cars, yes to all of the above, additive, hoses etc. etc. but I go for the least ethanol possible E5 for example.

As often happens when sat in a classic in a car park people approach for a chat about the car or classics generally. Recently that happened to me. The person said he had a collection of cars and bikes. We got round to the subject of petrol, specifically ethanol in petrol. He went on to explain how he removes the ethanol from the petrol he uses, having used the method for years. The method he described was to put water in the petrol, shake the container up, leave the liquid to settle, then siphon the petrol off because the water has dropped to the bottom with the ethanol in it!? I can understand the logic given that ethanol is apparently hygroscopic, hence the problem with steel petrol tanks rusting, ethanol has scavenged water from the air and the water/ethanol has dropped to the bottom of the tank. He said that the petrol can then be stored for months/years and he uses the method before he lays his cars up for winter and longer. Anyone tried this or can comment on the science?

If it's an original plug 1/2" x 7/16" AF open ended

Thanks Paul. I was 'into' classics before MkIV Spitfires were ever introduced, Mk2's were the in thing along with the newly introduced Herald 1200's. I've never heard of the Mark Five version? I just researched the tag number and needles to match when I found the site.

Good night

Check this link http://sucarb.co.uk/ The tab on the carbs reads FX1122F (HS4's on MkIV's) There is also a link on the same site to cross reference different needles http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

PM sent

Prefer Strombergs, fitted to my Heralds and Standard, easy to tune and balance.

WD40 also does the job Still got a pair of HS4's off a MKIV for sale with manifolds

Play in the prop shaft spline, or play in the UJ's? Former, grease the prop spline, later check the UJ clips (covered in recent previous posts)

In addition to this you also have the option these days of adjustable shocks, both in terms of shock hardness and spring fitted length to drop the height of the car if you need it. I had a Dolomite with them on front and back, fitted by the previous owner, he had gone over the top with shortened harder springs and adjusted the shocks to match, so much so that he put a crease in both the engine sump and the front sub-frame. I re-built the car with correct length springs and softened the shocks. But, as I found on the Spartan, the suspension set up was fine with an extremely light body, grp wings, 16 gauge aluminium bonnet and cast ali rear cockpit all pinned to a 1” square steel tube frame.

As built with the 1600 engine

When they were first launched in the 70's I built a Spartan based on a 1600 Vitesse, it ran very well without changing any of the springs or spring angles. Later I changed the engine for a 1360 Herald engine (the Vitesse engine needed a recon and I hadn't time) again without changing any of the suspension. If you have the parts why not try what you have before deciding on changing things. I also know someone who built a Gentry shortly afterwards, again he didn't make any suspension changes.

My 'Y' reg 1300 Dolomite has a 72mm alternator pulley. My 1970 Herald estate has a 62mm diameter pulley with a belt marked 1092 (1092mm long?). I re-built it with a new short Mk IV Spitfire block and haven't measured the crank diameter. One of my spare alternators has a 62mm pulley. Moral of the story, mix & match?

Is the problem the filler pipe to body seal/gasket, if so separate it from the body push that out from inside the boot pushing it up the filler pipe. And or is it that the sponge ring around the bottom drain pipe has gone solid and rusted to both the boot floor and tank drain pipe?

Don't Canely do an upgrade for the bottom trunnion, which, from memory is a ball type joint and sealed for life. Often forgotten or not mentioned is to make sure the EP90 is safe to use for yellow metal (bronze, brass etc.) or it could destroy the bearings etc.

According to Zues (screw size charts etc.) a 10mmx 1.25mm pitch (metric fine) needs an 8.75mm drill, a metric course 10mm x 1.5mm pitch needs an 8.5mm hole. On the subject of pulleys I fitted a larger pulley on the alternator to 'pull' the alternator closer to the block thus giving me some adjustment on the bracket. Because the pulley is larger it will reduce the rpm of the alternator. An alternative to get everything to fit, try to find a bracket and pulley from a 1300 Dolomite, same engine block as Heralds and Standards

Slight correction to my previous post, that's how I did it on my 1963 12/50, this is how I did it on my 1970 13/60. I've soldered all the cables together and extended (cable connector just visible) the brown/green to the alternator, the yellow brown being the other connection. I have played with and swoped pulleys to give me some adjustment in the belt. You can also use right hand mounted alternators to use on the left hand side by turning the front plate around and visa versa!

Have you looked at and checked the diameter of the pulley, they come in different sizes. I converted my Herald decades ago (about 1975) without any kit. I just joined two large spades from the control box together, one inside the other and the third went to the alternator. I did it under the direction of an auto-electrician and have driven the car without problem for decades, with both the original bracket and fan belt. Can't get to the car at the moment to see which colours got to which but I will try and dig it out

Try one of these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stoney-Racing-Universal-Radiator-Fan-Switch-Adapter-Temperature-Sensor-Cooling/282802366937?epid=14012614545&hash=item41d855a9d9:m:mOyIuSif4F5SJmogqZGJEeg&var=582118473360 I got one for my Dolomite. I couldn't use the rad filler plug for a sensor, the previous owner had modified it so I fitted one of these in the return pipe with a stat opening at a lower temperature

Had a similar issue on my Dolomite clutch. I had to pump the pedal repeatedly very quickly to get the clutch to work. All the time I was getting masses of air bubbles circulating in the master. Turned out to be the seals in the master has become U/S over time pulling air in, but the clutch initially failed very quickly. I had replaced the seals in the slave a couple of weeks before so that probably triggered the seals in the master failing. I would have done the seals in both at the same time but didn't have the master seals 'in stock'.