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Given that it would appear that large numbers of classic car drivers have issues and problems with ethanol in petrol, me included in the form of emulsified deposits in carbs and pinholes in petrol tanks I take it you can prove your absolute with scientific reports, and links to same? If not, to reply in a similar tone to your last post. Zip it.

Take the idea one stage further. You have a tank to hold fluid. Wrap the chunk of iron in plastic (not completely), put it in the tank so the plastic insulates the sacrificial metal from the tank body. Connect the + wire to it through the filler pipe. Remove the fuel sensor. Temporarily seal the hole. Fill the tank with electrolyte, connect the body of the tank to the -ve, switch on and wait. Result, sparkling internal steel surface. Rinse the tank and treat to stop further rust. Fill with petrol. I await the flack.

Probably a Mk2 Vitesse that was with your windrscreen scuttle, but not sure, I've broken too many Heralds over the decades. My 69 (purchased in 1980) everyday herald saloon had the larger tank, I don't think the previous owner had the knowledge or interest to fit it. Electrolysis, yes it does work, I've done it on fragile parts.

Don't appreciate the language (requires moderator intervention?), only repeating what has been written on other forums

It's work for me in the past to free a spinning shaft.

If it sticks again before you sort it place a long screwdriver on the end of the protruding square shaft on the starter and give the screwdriver a wack with a hammer. Alternatively put a !/2" OE spanner on the end of the shaft and turn the shaft, either method should free the bendix

If you do a deeper search just based on headlamp size you will find there are more options. Try adding the words Mini headlight, or Land Rover etc. I needed some for a 1960 Standard 10 and got a pair that can take replacement bulbs or halogen bulbs, they were a plastic bowl (originals steel and rusted through) for about the price of a scrap set of steel bowls etc.

Give me 4* back, more mpg, grow food not 'petrol'. Modern ethanol (E5, E10, E the future) are all hygroscopic and scavenge water from the atmosphere, therefore, because petrol floats on water the scavenged water gets in the fuel line or makes pin holes in steel petrol tanks. The higher the E number, the more water. A reason why modern car manufacturers offer limited guarantees on fuel systems?

You have to be pretty brutal when inspecting diaphragms and give them a good stretch. Over the decades I've experienced problems you've had with just a small pin hole, having first ruled out low oil in the dashpot. I keep a spare diaphragm in the glove compartment for a quick 5 minute fix, and a spare in the garage, both stored with talcum powder (or chalk dust) in the bags to preserve the rubber.

Try putting your old distributor cap back on. Before I bought my Dolomite the previous owner changed the cap, twice, for brand new OEM caps, both were crap and had micro-cracks in them.

Try this site for cross referencing SU needles; http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

It could be that you have pulled some sediment through and partly blocked the float chamber valve, or, as Wendy suggests, a sticking dashpot needle. To check the needle have you pushed the test pin up (arrowed in the photo)? If the needle is free there should be a distinct clunk when you push the pin up and the same when you let the needle go and the piston drops back down. This is done with the carb top on and dashpot piston in place.

If you have had the damper out have you orientated it correctly when you replaced it in the carb body? I'm talking about the 'pips' on both rims of the diaphragm. When I purchased my Estate it ran perfectly for many miles, I then cleaned the damper. I put the carb pips back in their recesses as per the book and it ran like a box of spanners, reason being, the previous owner had not assembled the diaphragm and damper correctly, easy mistake to make.

From memory the tubes (sleeves) are just spacers. Try doing a search for mild steel tube with the correct internal diameter to match the bolts and cut your own. Probably cost you pence rather than pounds!

Tear in the carb diaphragm?

Have any of the chassis outriggers been replaced, if so, is the geometry of the chassis now correct in terms of both vertical and horizontal measurements. Mine on my estate had been by previous owners, not so much door issues but when I came to check toe in on the rear axle it was out quite a bit so had to be shimmed out on one side predominantly. If you get stuck for chassis rubbers you could cast your own, a mould and liquid RTV polyurethane rubber. I've cast quite a few for various mounts.

These are like elephants' eggs to find, same size as the Spitfire etc but different splines. I've driven Heralds for decades with no problems with the three rail gearbox and re-built a few boxes. I have also driven Dolomites for the last five years and had trouble with the gearboxes (single rail). The first 1300 Dolomite I had the box went and I did a straight swop with a box from a 1500 Spitfire, I didn't even attempt a box re-built, it looked more complex but I kept it for spares. The flywheels between the 1300 and 1500 Dolomites (1500 Spitfire and MG) are apparently significantly different between the Dolomites. The Triumph Dolomite Club site goes in to detail if you do a search). If it were me I would keep the three rail original box, or look around for a MkIV box with OD, it's straight swop, I've done it on my Herald Estate and the saloon apart from the needed propshaft change. Then sell the parts you break from the 1500 Spitfire

Can't edit the above again. To make sure the plug is fully seated I use a large ball pien hammer as a drift with the flat face in the well of the plug gently tapping the ball with another hammer. Wear eye protection for this bit in case you strike a shard of metal off the ball, I have the scar on my arm to prove it. On my spare engines and blocks (1960 Standard through to 1969 Herald) these plugs are lipped but Canley should provide the right type.

To replace it, a large block of wood across the diameter of the new plug to take the blows from the hammer, DON'T hit the centre of the plug.

A large screwdriver punched through the centre of the plug, then pull and twist the screwdriver at an acute angle.

Meant to say, got one spare, free for anyone who wants it. Couldn't edit the previous post for some reason?

Got the factory cut roof, gratis but no fabric roof etc.

Gentlemen, members of every profession have their own opinions and ways of doing things, research and development are great tools. Each to their own. This is, after all a hobby. Now the grenade!!! Fitting an electric fan? Economy, saving the planet, less cash spent on petrol et al

On the Heralds/Vitesses I have dismantled over the years there have been rubber washers between the 'towers' on the bulkhead and chassis with the bolt going through the closure for the tower in to a captive nut inside the front outrigger.

If you get stuck I have some early Herald seats, but not black (vinyl dye is good), Try Baines for the screen rubber and chrome C O H BAINES LTD Unit 3, Buckingham House, Longfield Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, TN2 3EY Telephone: 01892 543311 Fax: 01892 530682 e-mail sales@coh-baines.co.uk