standardthread

As Clive says, and also, don't make the mistake I made by removing portable items from the chassis etc. In my case the wandering 'metal thieves' (have to be politically correct) made off with the front suspension towers off a Herald, both had new trunnions discs etc., meaning the rest of the car was effectively a write off.

Mr. BL obviously made changes over time, for example, from Stromberg's to SU's Job done, drift, lump hammer and flypress! Just got to put the re-built prop on the car. A point to note, I did manage to get the yoke off without removing the centre UJ by using a slim 11/16" ring spanner, a different UJ could have proved different.

Agreed! The capacity is obviously there. The pump I used must have come from an engine that predates my 'J' reg estate, but that has (had) a GE series engine in. As for the short DG block (DG4949ESS) I used, I don't know its age, I picked it up from a Triumph dealer having a clearance sale in about 1981 for £40, happy days. Triumph (BL) were good at doing things not 'in the book', my 1300 Dolomite has parts on it shouldn't have, potentially larger clutch, different wheel rims etc., but that could be down to clearing stock, it was the last but one built.

Sorry, I totally disagree on 'the need'. If you refer to my previous post about using a DG series short block, the car it went in, my Herald estate, was a daily driver car, we also used it on very long high speed journeys for holidays in Scotland, single trip 330 miles one way in eight hours , on motorways and A roads, such as the A9 with a couple of stops for food and petrol. Total mileage for a week was 1100 miles plus. The engine has covered just over 50k, the pressure, which would by this mileage have dropped if there was 'a need' for the later pump, is still as good as the day I first turned the engine over. In addition to that, I fitted an oil cooler to the car on the re-build, which if there was 'a need' for a high volume pump would have caused significant oil issues?

Know what your engine is doing (or not). An oil pressure gauge has been my top priority for decades whenever I have bought another car. As you say, a light tells you nothing, and can kill, as a colleague I knew years ago told me his brother-in-law had died because the engine had seized, little or no oil pressure) in the early 60's but he had a light, but didn't! The psi on the light is variable, depends where the switch was made, and who bought the badge to market it under.

A common theme running through a lot of threads appears to be that old tried and tested parts are better and more durable than their new, modern replacements, so if the old parts are available use them? When I restored my Herald I used a brand new MkIV DG series short block, there were no peripheral fittings on it. like you (and a lot of others), I was on a budget to do the job. To complete the engine I used all second hand parts. The tacho distributor came from a Spitfire, the rest, like the sump, cast iron oil pump, head, tappets (and push rods), fuel pump, etc. ALL came from 13/60 Heralds. The car has run faultlessly for 50k plus. The oil pressure has been constant at between 20 to 70 psi depending on engine revs etc.

Just had a look at one of my Herald washer bottles. Unless your system has been changed the non return valve is a stainless steel ball bearing inside the tube that goes inside the washer bottle, you should hear it rattle if you take the tube out of the reservoir and shake it. As in a post above, it may not be seating properly, if so, stick the end of the tube in vinegar overnight and flush it out. My filter is external in the pipe to the pump, it's a kind of closed funnel with a tube either side of it. If your pump is OK the rest of the system is simple, just a single tube to a 'T' piece that then feeds each nozzle jet. So check for splits around the 'T' piece or a tube not correctly seated on the nozzles (but then you would have wet patches inside the car).

Jack, It could also be a build up of limescale in the system, especially the filter (that should be in the reservoir on the end of the pipe) if your car has lived in hard water areas. To solve this take the non metal parts out of the system and soak them in vinegar (or acetic acid if you can get it) then flush them through. To take a pump problem out of the equation connect a length of pipe to the screen nozzle side of it and a length of pipe to a jar of water from the other connection and operate it, If you get a good jet of water the problem is between the pump and windscreen, if not then it is your pump. But beware, before you go down the electric route, if the problem is with the rest of the system you will burn your electric pump out.

As everyone has suggested, it's probably green slim that is the problem. When you get it sorted put an egg cup full of meths in the water each time you fill the reservoir up , it should keep the gunge away, act as an anti-freeze, and, is an excellent glass cleaner.

Can't get in to the last post so; You could try these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Motorcycle-Fairing-Bolts-X-25-m5-5mm-Lug-Nuts-Speed-Spire-Clips/111651091440?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 They are very good and reasonably priced, I used them to re-attach the wings on our Standard 10, it originally had spire bolts. You will still need the retaining plates, part number 608383.

Sorry, but the original fittings for the Herald gearbox tunnel cover were spire bolts, part number FU2545 (nut) YH6507 (screw), about 3/8" UNF from memory, left in place, with the slotted clip/cover (photo above) slid off the screw to be able to lift the cover off. The clips being fitted flat face down on to the cover.

Have you got someone lined up to re-establish and set the amber and castor angles up? Years ago I built a Spartan based on a 1600 Vitesse, in doing so I removed the suspension towers and then re-fitted them. When the car was finished tyre wear was rapid, I put it down to tracking, so had it done. Very shortly afterwards I had to do a long motorway trip for work. On my return there was heavy rain and the car was VERY lively, to the point where I nearly spun off the road and nearly wrote the car off. When I got home the brand new tyres were at scrap leaves of wear. I made a temporary optical set-up to check the camber and caster, they were way out, I had wrongly shimmed the suspension towers. I re-shimmed the towers to correct spec. The car drove like a dream from that point on.

Cheers Clive, thanks for the tip, I will order a pair for £30 (looks like they have stopped selling singles). I have managed to get the bolt nearly out without taking the UJ apart to the point where I can turn the bolt with my fingers. I suppose it depends on the profile of both the spanner used and the UJ itself. The problem now is to get the yoke assembly to move off the spline, so far it's about 3/16" and stuck so it is soaking in a pool of penetrating oil. If that fails the UJ will come out and a two leg puller to shift the yoke. At least I have got my head around the layout now because an old 1850 BL manual shows split collars to hold the bearing in the rubber bung, a castellated nut (now replaced by the bolt above) on a thread that must have been part of the shaft, plus a woodruff key to go in the mix somewhere.

Thanks gents, I looked at the TDC forum before I posted, that's where I got the bearing link from, and the fixing options. I have a spare (shot) carrier and prop (that's OK), I'm going back to antique basics of learning at a scrapers so I will take the bolt out under the prop UJ and then try to pull(?) the bearing off the prop with a 3 leg puller? Then do some measuring. I've looked at 'OEM' mounts from a Triumph supplier (not good feedback on their engine mounts etc.) and they are about six times the cost of the above link who are now selling a pair of Transit mounts for about £30.

Has anyone done it? Do you have to remove a UJ to get the bearing carrier off or can the UJ yoke be removed by removing the bolt that bolts it to the prop using a ring spanner? How do you separate the bearing from the rubber carrier? Does anyone have a SKF bearing number or one from a similar supplier? Has anyone used this bearing as a replacement; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ORIGINAL-O-E-FORD-TRANSIT-30MM-PROPSHAFT-CENTRE-BEARING-MK5-MK6-MK7-MK8-RWD/253332532698?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 if so, are they any good? Even the official BL manuals are vague, the 1976 version doesn't even cover it. Reasons for my questions, I think mine is going, I've suddenly noticed a 'dry bearing' noise appearing after a couple of miles and I have read bad feedback about OEM bearing supplied by some suppliers, hence the question about the transit bearing, which I understand can be glued in to the Dolomite bearing carrier frame. Thanks in advance for any help.

Still got a roof with factory cut out if anyone wants it, no webasto.

Karl, Given what you have found and had to do I would seriously syphon the oil out of your dif and replace it, you could have cooking oil in there. Pity Triumph stopped putting drain plugs in difs.

Whining noise could be main box bearings. I re-built the box for our Standard 10 (very similar box through to the MkIV box) and cleaned and spun the bearings with compressed air, they sounded fine so didn't replace them. Back in the car the box was still noisy, box out again, bearings replaced, a lot quieter. It's not a difficult job to knock the input shafts out of a box, press new bearings on to the shafts and replace the needle roller, giving the box a good wash out with petrol or paraffin before you dismantle it. The tolerance ring is a kind of crimpled washer in the release arm, held in place by correctly positioning the phosphor bronze bearings in the bell housing, i.e. with the lower bearing top hat inside the gap where the release arm fits. Again, I agree with a long bolt dropped in from the top between the two bearings and arm (or a long screwdriver if the pin falls out as a temporary fix. Again, for the O/D flushing out the filter and correct oil. Given the engine condition and previous owners you could have engine oil in the box instead of EP90 fit for yellow bearings.

The box I have re-built, and in my estate, and this shaft came from untouched factory built boxes that I took apart, this isn't an OEM from Kipping, I just remember him, and others, stocking two bearing sizes.

OK folks, firstly I would never sell, attempt to sell, or give away ANY part I suspected of being damaged, OR modified, that goes for this shaft, I will keep it, my kids can then scrap it when I shuffle off. I have just done a dry re-assembly of the total mainshaft.To clarify, please see these latest photographs, the bearing runs in the input (main) shaft recess, the output (main) shaft then traps the bearing in the input shaft and and does not turn in the bearing, it would appear that recess in the output shaft acts as an oil reservoir. These are old bearings that I couldn't find yesterday. I will find the Kipping or other parts catalogue to give you the part numbers. As I have a bearing complete, and a cage for a second bearing, the O/D box I re-built for my Herald Estate 40 years ago must have this type of output shaft, and, I have driven that car, hard, for in excess of 50k.

Not by me. It's as I took it out of a box, the cage and large rollers came out with it the rollers sitting in the recess, and, from memory, last time I re-built an O/D box there was the choice of two types of bearings from John Kipping etc. The surface of the recess is also bright/polished.

Going back to your previous post about vertical marks (scratches) in the bores could it be a cracked ring(s) or a piece of proverbial stuck in a ring groove? I've just looked at my Standard official WM and it looks like the pistons can be withdrawn downwards once the crank is removed (I've never done it that way). A good ring compressor should(?) be able to get the pistons in back past the remaining deposits you mention.

No, just enough to cover what I paid (or less!), needles are gratis. I don't have a need for them.

Make me an offer, I think I paid about £75 before I cleaned them and fitted new ADN needles. But they're not going anywhere so no rush.

This is the spare main (output?) shaft I have spare. It's the reduced tip version to take the large caged roller bearings. Can't find the cage or rollers to illustrate.