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Hi Andy, As far as I'm aware the track and back axle dimensions are identical throughout the range but photo attached. Sorry for the clutter, it's a bit of a lump.

Thanks Pete, No specific symptoms and feel fine for now. More blokes die with it than because of it, fingers crossed I’m in the first group. Blokes aren’t screened for it, political master of ALL colours (could use stronger phrases) take note, and do something. I am re-appraising my spares needs projects and life so a lot of parts will go to help others. Steve

Hi Andy, Just south of Leeds. About 2 miles from the M62/M1 interchange. Steve

Thanks to a potentially life shortening condition these parts are for sale (see photos). There is a complete MkIV box (in the plastic box), and parts from other 3 synchro boxes, plus the O/D unit, box tops and extensions and bell housings to complete (not in the photos). I stripped and cleaned them to build as spares but I haven't the interest or time to rebuild them so they have to go, or will go for scrap. £110, the lot or offers, no returns and no time wasters please. Steve

Yes they are repairable and take patterns from.

Complete with glass sunroof £15 plus two saloon roofs, free (see previous post for these). They have to go, or WILL be scrapped as well as loads of glass. Collection only, 2 miles from M1/M62 interchange.

Clearing more spares that I will never use. More to follow including Herald/Spitfire difs and gearboxes. Dolomite complete rear axle with 'U' shaped tie bars, brake drums etc. I think it is a 1300. £45 o.n.o. Obviously will need collecting.

Yes

The main body of the fuel pipe is/was steel running much the length of the car, usually clipped to the chassis next to the brake pipe, that's why I said replace it with 1/4" copper if you are going to do it, you can buy it by the roll. The rubber pipe sections provide the flexible joints from tank to the above, and from the above to your fuel pump so 1 metre should be more than enough. There is also a section of metal pipe running from the outflow side of your fuel pump around the engine to your carb., so two more short sections of rubber.

If you are going to do work after a long lay up I would future proof your fuel system by replacing all the rubber hoses now with ethanol proof rubber tube. Be careful where you source it from, I got some that was supposed to be E10 (or above) proof and it swelled up and leaked within weeks. If you're doing the whole fuel system look at copper instead of steel for the main pipe under the car, again future proof.

Colourtune sell a camber/castor gauge, I have one but not used it. I also have one of their toe in gauges, basic, but works I've used it for years to set my front wheels. Our local garage measured my wheel base, front to back, basically using thin stainless steel wire and I used those figures to set the toe in.

Probably some ham fisted previous owner who over tightened the nuts and distorted the cover. As Pete suggests, it's a simple job to correct and make it flat again.

The fibre washers are the first thing to get lost, rubber can also be used, and are ten a penny, the same goes for nyloc nuts. Get yourself some to keep in stock, they are 1/2" A/F and are used all over the car. Rocker covers aren't spares I have used, or needed in well over 40 years, they don't wear out.

Jack, They were probably an attempt to spread the load from the nuts. The only items outside/on top of the cover, coming up from the cover on each stud are, a fibre washer to keep the oil in, then a plain washer (about the size of a new penny if you can find some), then the nyloc nut. When I take the cover off I count the turns on the nut, then put it back with the same number of turns, the torque setting on these nuts is about 2lbs.. I don't change the gasket every time because I stick it inside the groove in the cover with dabs of liquid gasket. If you think you have a leak from it what I do to make sure I have every scrap of old gasket off the head I a pull a wallpaper scraper held vertically along where the gasket seats (make sure the tappet holes etc. are covered with rags). The scraper acts like an engineers' scraper, but isn't as vicious. The breather cap can't let oil out, oil vapour yes because that's what is was designed to do. If you have the correct cap on it SHOULD be cup shaped (about the size of your cupped palm) and around the hole where it fits on the rocker cover should be a ring of holes, these breath the engine. What might have happened it that over time your cap might have got bunged up with dust and oil because inside the cap is a kind of steel wool to stop muck getting in but letting vapour out. Try taking the cap off and washing it in paraffin or white spirit. You will be surprised how black the liquid is.

Jack, It's a long time since I looked inside one, but from memory those two metal plates should be tacked to the inside of the cover to strengthen the cover as you tighten the nuts down to prevent distortion. If they have come adrift you could try cleaning the cover and the plates and epoxy them back if you aren't competent at welding. In terms of leakage from the breather cap your 1200 was designed to let the engine breath from that cap, it shouldn't be a closed system like the 13/60's etc.

I tried to fit LED's our Companion indicators. They only worked when the side-lights were on so I gave up and went back to filaments. I had made a new loom for the car shortly before, based on the late 13/60 wiring diagram, with mods for a fuse box.

Adrian, If you want to convert it back to a Herald chassis I have a front cross tube with sloping chassis pieces extending back about 9" from the centre of the cross-tube. It's in good nick, gratis.

It's called a Glaswegian screwdriver, big hammer for both. No offence intended to any Scot, my best mate and best man was one, from Glasgow. Expletives help!

First, there is the problem of finding a new laminated screen for cars that were never fitted with them, not to mention the cost. Second, I have had the misfortune to have a toughened screen crazed by a stone thrown up by a passing wagon. My solution to be able to continue my journey, put a glove on and punch a hole through it so that I could see the road, get home, and replace the screen.

When I converted my Herald to an alternator an auto-electrician told me to join the thick brown and brown/yellow cables going to the control box together then take one thick cable with LARGE Lucar connector to one of the large spade connections on the alternator. The thin yellow/brown cable with the small Lucar connector for the ignition light then went to the small spade connector on the alternator. So on my Herald there are only two cables going to the alternator. I presume there is a buzz bar within the alternator connecting all the large spades together. My current Herald and the first one I converted have covered tens of thousands of miles without issue. Your original connector looks (?) to have one thick and one thin cable going in to it.

If they were never fitted to the car (no mounting points behind the seats under the rear windows) you have derogation from wearing them or needing to fit them.

Thanks Ed. The idea came from someone who suggested 'on site' powder coating contractors, he is obviously wrong. Back to a brush and zinc phosphate primer, better still, red lead if you could buy it.

Thanks Mark. Yes powder coating. But what I want to do would be too vulnerable to take away because I intend to lead the railings in to the wall so effectively it is only the top rail holding them together until they are leaded. Heat won't be an issue, a hot air gun played over the rods will do the melting.

Which ones, the ones which started this post off, or the ones I have?

Has anyone got one, or used one? They start at about £100 on the net. Powder is about £15/kg. I have some new steel railings to paint, and other steel and thought it would give a quicker, better result.