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Thanks for the tips, I was pondering how to keep the cover off the car body.

Wendy, just had a detailed look at your original post. The company are genuine, they have been around for about 50 years, are 4 miles from me, and I have purchased items from their shop in in the past before I moved. They were in to motorsports then.

Thanks Rosbif. I tried a search and the prices came up at nearly twice the price from France! Based on the spec of your cover I looked on ebay and found these; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203636580252 It arrived today. The 'plastic' is heavy duty, soft, flexible and lined. Complete with straps for the wheels and across the car. I trial fitted it to the car, time will tell if it does the job but it appears more robust than the cheap thin plastic ones around. Thanks again.

This is why I suspect the covers could be refurbished. On the left is a new cover, the cover on the right has a ridge running around the ends of the fingers.

Hi Wendy. I wasn't having a go at you, I was just going by the look of the cover plate and we are all told to beware of sharks. Everyone does their best to help if they can.

Looks like a refurbished unit given the wear/recess on the ends of the fingers on the cover plate? Given the price and the rarity of 1300 Dolomite clutches is someone taking advantage?

Note of caution. The pressure plate that exploded on me was, along with the cover plate a refirb. fitted by the previous owner. When I fitted the new driven plate to the old cover plate the clutch wouldn't engage, possibly because of the reason glang has given over rivets. That cover plate is now scrap. Differences in diameter, to give the garage mechanic some leeway to source driven plates?

Thanks for the link. It gives me some idea of the structure to look for. I think to order from France with carriage and taxes would push the price through the roof.

Any oil contamination on the driven plate wash it with carbon tetrachloride (if you can get it) or another volatile solvent.

There are issues with bolt size, position, etc. etc. I looked and thought of it for my 1300 Dolomite because I have a large centre lathe to do it but those in the know put me off because of potential problems. I found a couple of driven plates on fleebay marked for a 1300 Dolomite but when they arrived the boxes were labelled for a Marina (can't remember which model), part number GCP 188, and they fit because shortly afterwards the driven plate exploded so I fit one to the car and a Herald clutch cover. The car drove with no issues and now lives with someone else on the south coast. The plate that exploded was a re-con plate! If your clutch cover is shot then use a Herald cover. Again I fitted one to a short MkIV block with no issues, the car has since driven 40k plus.

They are like elephants' eggs but you can still get them, at a price. The same clutch is fitted to the 1300 Dolomite and some Marinas.

Hi, Can anyone recommend a good outdoor car cover that does not stretch or rip, and does the intended job, and that does not cost the earth please?

I have four to go at £15 each plus post. They all need re-coring. 3 13/60's and one 1200 full width.

I have a header tank, I thought I had a radiator but can't find it for now. Have you thought of a Dolomite radiator with an extended core, they have no pressure cap and look identical to your photograph? If you went down that route it would need a larger bore inlet pipe to match the header tank added to the radiator top tank.

Can we take it it is a twin SU carb set up? If so I had a similar episode with a Dolomite the previous owner had fitted twin SU's (don't like them, prefer Strombergs). It turned out that one was running weak, added to that a plug lead issue. So basically the engine was running on one carb. My present Dolomite (single SU) suddenly died approaching traffic lights and wouldn't re-start. That turned out to be that an emulsion had formed in the petrol (E version and I'm NOT going in to that debate again) and a globule of it had formed at the base of the float chamber next to the exit to the needle blocking the petrol flow. I blew it through from the carb end and it started first time. Then I cleaned the float chamber out and found the emulsion.

You could put one in the dash but drill two holes, one above the other and fit an oil pressure gauge?

Could it be an age thing? I do it all the time, and the more space you have the greater the number of safe places to fill the space.

If you have no luck I have a pair of Herald 13/60 blocks going free. They are in good condition, no ridges at the top of the bores, therefore little (?) wear.

The distributor WILL only fit in the drive dog one way, BUT, the slot in the top of the drive dog is offset. So if the drive dog has been dropped in the wrong way round the ignition will be 180' out, I know, I did it when I re-coned my first engine, and learned from my mistake. Photographs in a decent workshop manual show how the dog should be fitted, there is a free version someone on the forum has posted as a pdf. This is the page from my Standard 10 manual, but they are all the same.

Do it all the time, its very therapeutic and shows the car who's the boss.

Whether it is an SU or Stromberg carb check the oil in the dashpot. It could have just on minimum, surged, and is now flooding.

That brings in to play the clutch plate, e.g. a 1300 Dolomite, and they are like elephants' eggs to find. Or you risk a dodgy refurbished plate as the owner of a my previous Dolomite did for it to exploded on me, literally damaging the bell housing.

You mean Standard/Triumph Phantom Grey. I colour matched it to RAL 7011 Go two tone and paint your roof white, the white on this is Nimbus Blue

Try a centre punch at the side of the screw?

The most I have used is 2.5 litres to do a complete Herald estate (and a Herald saloon before that), and that is going from white to red on the estate and that left some for touch ups. A lot depends on your equipment and ability.