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Totally agree with the previous posts. Those foolish enough to think 'new' or 'NOS stock' (usually cheap rubbish) will always be there will no doubt find at some point that they have a scrap car, all for the want and need of an old restorable part that people through away. I have a garage and cellar full of old spares and panels that will go for scrap, and it goes against the grain. I think it is called a disposable society, now with finite resources.

It is that simple, and is efficient. The bodywork paint and the rubber provide the insulation. The main point being, drivers' side, away from the ignition coil. A more efficient method I used on my saloon was a length of aluminium tape burglar alarm engineers use on windows attached to the rear windscreen connected to a length of coax through a block connector. Either way, there are no holes in bodywork for rust to get started.

Instead of an automatic ariel you could do what I have done. Get a length of rigid brass wire (brazing rod or similar) making sure it is insulated from the outer cable. Connect that to the centre cable of a length of coaxial cable (the other end fitted with a coaxial plug) and slip the length of brass rod underneath the windscreen seal on the drivers' side inside the car. The rod forms the ariel. No problems with vandals, forgetting to retract the ariel etc.

It's called 'friendly' fire, over s****, and over here!

Make sure they are correct scale. Yes, and the speed increase from using flush rivets probably saved this country from tyranny. Please don't mock those who have served or supported those who do/did.

I am more concerned and very annoyed when so called 'experts' falsify and re-write history, such as when a well known publisher of car repair manuals published a book about Main Battle Tanks. The 'expert' who wrote the book clearly stated that Vickers, designed and built the first Challenger MBT's, and, were responsible for using Rolls Royce CV12 engines as it's powerpack instead of the Leyland L60 used in Chieftain. All wrong. Another so called 'expert' wrote a series of books about Rolls Royce from its inception to the present day, he too said Vickers insisted on the CV12's and built the first Challengers. How do I know, I worked there when the ROF was designing the Challenger, and there when they were first handed over to the British Army in March 83.

I have quite a few, all to go along with a lot of other spares I will never use. If you want one £15 but the input shaft has some rust on it (stored in the cellar), the rest of the box hasn't been touched? I live about 2 miles from the M1/M62 interchange.

The square headed 'bolt' similar to your gearbox drain plug. The easier type of pump to get on with are those with a lever underneath to hand prime petrol if the car has been garaged for a few weeks. Saves the battery cranking the engine. Leyland unfortunately went to the non prime able version for the Dolomite etc.

Tim is correct in the first reply. If your pipes are connected to the fuel pump someone has really cobbled things and put large adapters on because the outlet on the fuel pump is 1/4" (as per the pipes you have ringed). If you try and start the car and it fires YOU WILL be in significant danger because fuel will get through your set up but you will not have valves to stop fuel flow because petrol won't be going through the carb float chambers.

Agree, they have a downloadable pdf so you can check profiles etc. and will send you a sample.

Unique and possibly the oldest surviving model?

One solution/improvement, block the bypass AND adjust the cable to the heater valve so that the valve can't be completely closed?

They are supposed to be 3kw plus, depending on physical core size but they are all rubbish, from the Standards through to the Dolomites.

Identical. Looking at what can be seen of the bodywork and door bottoms they look to be in good condition. If it has been permanently stored in the same place then there should have been a good air flow around the underneath, therefore little deep rust? Be interesting to know the engine number, given the white clocks it is probably a very early car.

A rare vehicle worthy of saving and restoring if everything is original, and still on cross-plys (original?) but with Vitesse bumper overriders? Wish I had the time and space, . Good luck with the sale.

Or remove the top heater hose with the engine running. I fitted a bleed valve in the metal pipe at this point.

When you switch the O/D on you should hear a distinct click. When driving and you switch it on it reduces engine revs (not power) so in effect you can take the engine revs back up by accelerating, so going faster with less strain on engine and gearbox etc. It depends how you drive, I go in to 3rd, then 3rd O/D, then 4th gear, then 4thO/D. No doubt there will be others with a different interpretation, or be more technical.

Did you use an Alps printer?

I'm about 50 miles from Keighley but if he is on the Leeds side let me know if you need help. It's a disgrace to take advantage of someone so vulnerable.

From memory, and having done it years ago the way you convert a car from pos to neg earth is to 'flash' the dynamo to reverse its polarity, then reverse the battery. But as you say if they have they could have damaged some electrics.

Instead of drilling a new hole open this hole out with a conical multi-step drill.

Rip off cowboys after a cheap car? They want naming and shaming, then reporting to Trading Standards.

A better solution, if your cables are long enough would be to share the windscreen wiper drive grommet because there are no moving parts involved. An alternative, the empty hole above it with a new grommet.

Haven't checked my parts catalogue yet but Canley shows item 31, part numbers 703972 and 703971 (glass channel) on their Herald door assembly page. They don't list a separate channel for the convertible, and I can't see them being different to the saloon or estate.

This is how the Autobook manual describes the fitting/adjustment. The rods from the turnbuckle (sleeve nut) can be positioned at any angle to get them to line up on the chassis fixings. Hope this helps?