standardthread

A standard Herald box won't mate with a 1500 box, the later has 20 splines on the input shaft and the clutch plate is bigger, therefore change of flywheel. I fitted one to a previous 1300 Dolomite but with a 1300 clutch plate. As far as I have researched the first Dolomites were fitted with 3 rail boxes before going to single rail, was that the same for the 1500 Spitfires? In terms of MOT's my Herald Estate was taken off the road in 2010 ish and the DVLA have it as no MOT history even though I MOT'd it just before I layed it up but they still class it as tax exempt etc. I have kept it SORN'd It also has twin 1 1/4" Strombergs which I fitted, so anything goes with carbs. As is said above, get the present owner to MOT it, if it fails on something major walk away.

Don't forget. These Heralds became the Vitesse. Bigger, heavier and more powerful than a 1500 Spit, but with uprated brakes. All the Heralds I have purchased over the decades never came with a service history, if it's solid go for it.

Pity they are made in China. Would prefer a UK manufacture but then they would be no good on a Dolomite because of the battery position. Have you looked at a smaller alternator pulley?

Internal diameter of 1/4" (6mm) to match the rigid pipe.

If you have recently replaced the drive cable I would start looking there first to solve the problem. Have you overtightened something, or is there a kink somewhere Speedo cable DO NOT require excess oil, just the inner cable oiling, them being removed and the oil wiped off, and again, a light oil.

Anyone wants a pair of 13/60 blocks to go with these, FREE

I've had this before with an old clamp that had distorted over time. I found that with the clap screw tightened fully (both sides of the slit were touching) there was still slight movement with the distributor. I filed a sliver off each side of the slit so that when the clamp was tight there was then a slight gap at the end of the slit above the tightening screw.

They should both be identical, the shape being is the nearside cut out.

Has someone had the speedo apart? Our Standard 10 box needed stripping and cleaning due to age, which I did. All was good until the weather/temperature changed and symptoms you describe started to happen. I discovered that I had very slightly overtightened two screws either side of the spindle bridge in the speedo. I backed them off, problem solved.

There is a way to check on the speedo dial itself, it relates to a series of small numbers that are printed/written on the dial face, I think from memory, at the bottom of the dial but on my Dolomite they are under the trip miles indicator. It's basically a part number. Also check that the drive cable is sound and secure with no snags along its length, it could just simply need the cable very lightly oiling with thin oil.

Adrian you have got it got it just about correct. The 3 way union is bolted to a clip on the chassis. The pipe across the car is pressed against the top of the chassis cross rail bending it around/across between the two upright. Then to another bracket on the off-side that takes both the flexible pipe (bolted to the bracket with the lock nut), then the rigid pipe is run onto the end of the flexible pipe(s). As the cross pipe is a short run I don't think it is/was ever clipped to the chassis because it is protected 'within' the chassis.

Have you tried the manufacturers? https://sucarb.co.uk/

There was a thread on the Dolomite forum a few years when I was looking at replacing a tandem master and I thought, and posted,that I would give the pedal a good thump to bleed the brakes. I was told not to do this because it could damage a bakalite part in the servo, and the way to bleed the brakes was to open all the bleed screws and let gravity do the job at first. Then close the bleed screws and bleed each brake conventionally once there was fluid in the lines. Something to do with air getting trapped in the lines as you bleed one?

SOLD

Message sent.

Hi Dave, No, not sold yet so still available Steve

I have a complete saloon rear body section, free, but will need collection. It needs repair in the usual places.

Triumph and Standard handbrakes are S H one T, so I would say yes, but not to the point where the shoes drag on the drums.

More likely for plumbing to remove plugs from radiators etc.

I have Herald, Spitfire and Dolomite wheels/rims. This looks more like a Dolomite rim, the central recess being deeper than on the Herald. I have a spare Dolomite rim with a tyre on it that looks like your photo, you can have it free but because of weight etc. postage will be expensive. And it is steel not alloy. I live just south of Leeds

Signs of a worn tensioner in need of replacing are two heavy grooves in the tensioner from the bars on the chain but you need it exposed to see it.

You can probably get most of the warp out of the cover by putting it over a length of timber and standing gently on either end to get it back flatish. As for machining try draw filing, basically a file that rests on both side of the cover. pressed flat against it, and pulled towards you

I find it easier to remove the flux from a welding rod and bend the bottom 1" or so in to a right angle to rest against the tensioner. The other 11 or 12" gives you a long handle to pull. Once the cover is nearly in place turn the rod through 90' and remove.

Hi Andy, As far as I'm aware the track and back axle dimensions are identical throughout the range but photo attached. Sorry for the clutter, it's a bit of a lump.

Thanks Pete, No specific symptoms and feel fine for now. More blokes die with it than because of it, fingers crossed I’m in the first group. Blokes aren’t screened for it, political master of ALL colours (could use stronger phrases) take note, and do something. I am re-appraising my spares needs projects and life so a lot of parts will go to help others. Steve