Dan Miller
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the head on mine was a right pain, and my friends stag, he had to get a hoist in, and literally had the weight of the car hanging by the head itself (not sure how he bolted it up) and after a week, it came free. for mine, I used a rubber mallet, a lot... and beat the hell out if until it moved LOL
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deffo no throw out!!! I rebuilt my engine this year and I have never had my hands in one before!!! might need an oversize thrust washer... check the bearings, see how they look.. you might be OK!
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OK, think I might just take a punt and get this lot from Canley: (I have noticed that you can no longer buy the woodruff key for the crank, wonder why?. the 2 shims on mine look a little distorted from maybe the engineers or my man-handling, not sure if I have to replace them so I have bought 2 anyway but I have never removed the woodruff and reluctant to now due to not being able to buy a replacement from Canley) Also going to pout spring washers into the main bearing cap bolts as recommended. looks like I do not need them for the con-rod end-caps 6 x WL210 SPRING WASHER - 7/16 £0.20 EACH 1 x 145275 SHIM - .004" - LARGE CRANK £0.75 EACH 1 x 145276 SHIM - .006" - LARGE CRANK £0.95 EACH 2 x 144195/10 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .010 £5.34 EACH 1 x 144195/15 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .015 £5.34 EACH 1 x 144195/30 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .030 £5.34 EACH 2 x 144195/5 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .005 £5.34 EACH I can resell the unused ones on ebay if need be, o keep them for next time I mince the engine....
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LOL I just wish I was not such a newbie sometimes... never had a classic before and certainly never had my hands inside an engine!!!
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I never worried... and she over heated, and I am still rebuilding 8 months later because I am such a newbie LOL
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cheers guys... I did some measuring just with the feeler gauges... as a test, I put her back together (washers and all), I pushed crank all the way to front and used feelers to measure the size (the rear of the rear main bearing, outside the block), and it was 0.030.. I then pushed it all the way back, and saw an increase of 0.008... not scientific, but it does give me a number... I have just received my magnetic dial-gauge, so I will work out how to use that, and see if I can get a more accurate measurement. I find it hard to get my head around the fact that the inset in the block under the rear-main-bearing cap, is not quite as wide as the "standard" thrust bearing, so removing them in my opinion, will not give me the movement I care about... what I would really need to know, is how much past the inset, does the washer go, and then use that as a measurement plus the movement finding it quite hard to explain, even to myself. thinking the best thing to do is buy a few thrust washer sizes, and try them and then check movement... should only need a 0.005, 0.010 and a 0.015 to be safe. can I use 2 different sizes either side? I am sure it does not matter...
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looks like to need to just remove the back main bearing cap, With a screw driver to lever crank from fully rear to front measure total travel . Base on 7thou end float. If total movement is say 14 thou you need a 7thou shim to give you your 7thou endfloat that's word from Mick on tssc. suspect my issue will b that my movement goes beyond my feeler gauges! and without anything printed/etched into the current washer, I am going to have bother anyway, wish me luck!!! (hmm I wonder do I hse to loosen all of the caps to allow the crank to be levered forward, or should it move anyway)
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Hi Alex... they have no numbers on them... they look in pretty bad shape to be honest, pitted and what not but no size on them...
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I missed a decimal point sort of... it is 0.028.... where the tolerance in the Haynes manual says 0.006 to 0.014
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Hi all hit my first newbie failure, and then a questions failure = I misread the torque settings on the connecting rod cap bolts, and thought they were the same as the main bearings, so I tried to over-torque them. turns out I had bought a whole new set, so I removed them all and put the new ones in to correct torque setting (had to buy a new torque wrench though LOL) problem1 = Haynes manual states I should have washers with the connecting rod end cap bolts, but there were none when I stripped her down, and I do not have any in what I ordered from Canley last year.. should I stop now and order them? problem2 = just doing the clearances on the Crank-end-float... it seems to be at around 0.28, where the threshold seems to be 0.06 to 0.14... I am assuming I need to buy an oversized thrust washer set... which means I have to take all the caps off again :-( what size do I buy? 0.14 over? sorry guys for the newbie questions, never had my hands inside the bottom end of an engine before... cheers dan
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Pete!!!! feel like send you a hug!!! That boiler is my own design, K&N's too!!! watch that baby heat!!! :-) might try and fit the SS exhaust to it :-) as you can see from the garage, I have bits everywhere!!! so really trying to get a handle on the nuts and bolts as I think I bought new ones for the shells, and new ones for the gear box housing, and new ones for the end plates (as there was a right mix of them when I stripped her down) as for the cam-shaft, I have not actually done anything with the cam, it is still in place, and I have not gone near the head this time, so the followers are all still in situ :-) I have ordered the new core plug (canley also confirmed it was the 2-inch jobber). also ordered a magnetic sump plug to try and catch any shreds of bearing that might have got into the oil ways, so hopefully it will help... fun times ahead!! was reading Haynes manual last night, very nervous about putting the crank in, but going for it hopefully this weekend :-) there does appear to be a little surface degradation on the end of the crank, so not sure if I should polish it or something... that's what i get for not oiling it when it came back from the engineers!
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get Netflix... £5.99 a month with so much to watch... need unlimited internet though
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that might be it... 2inch does sound big... I have emailed them anyway so should get a reply monday
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Hi Doug, I have a feeling that is the one between the water pump and the housing... where I need the one between the housing and the block you know what though, I bet I have one some where as I would have bought a gasket set when I did the head, and I think I left the housing on the head when I took it off... can not be sure, but I seem to remember I did... memory is shot!!! otherwise, I will just get one :-) I just need to find that cam seal thingie as I can not find it on any of the sites! I will have to email them
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ahhh that makes sense thank you.,... I live and learn! this is what I bought last year: PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION RETAIL QUANTITY E40L GASKET SET - ENGINE B/END 4CYLINDER L/CRANK £13.70 1 ECPS8 CORE PLUG SET - 4 CYLINDER (BUCKET TYPE) £7.70 1 WL208 SPRING WASHER - 5/16 £0.20 7 UKC2598 CON ROD BOLT £3.60 8 201344A ENGINE BACK PLATE - SPITFIRE HERALD ALLOY £45.40 1 HU809 SETSCREW - 5/16" X 1 1/8" UNF £0.35 6 WL209 SPRING WASHER - 3/8 £0.20 6 HN2008 STEEL NUT - 5/16 £0.20 6 having trouble finding the part on the rimmers diagrams :-(