Andy Flexney

Quoted Text

I'll be doing the Round Britain this year so hopefully Andy might have the minerals in him to make his opinion known in person instead of hiding behind a name on a forum.

I would have said hello but I could not find a Betty Swallocks on the  entry list    😉

AndyF
participant in 1998 RBRR

to be honest I find the socialising the most dangerous part of the 10CR or perhaps better to say the morning after. When I see the amounts of beer that has been consumed the night before by the drivers of some of the vehicles I am surprised not more accidents have happened. I would prefer to drive on a deserted road at night than on the busy road after one of the social evenings.

AndyF

Quoted from timbancroft61

we do not control people. ...

And this is just the problem. Our society today expects each individual will be able to blame someone else or institution when something bad happens even if it was them that caused it.  Nobody, today, is expected, or expects to take responsibility for themselves anymore.

Successive governments have managed to create a big brother society where we are all protected ( by CCTV and when something goes wrong we can blame someone else.

We need to stop wrapping people in cotton wool and make it clear to them they are responsible for their actions not the organiser or the club or the government or anyone else for that matter. If you are in a traffic jam don't blame other people. You are also part of that jam and it is you, and only you, who decided to be there at that particular time. In other words it was your decision to be in that traffic jam, live with it!

I was at the signing on this year and every team was asked to sign that they had read and understood the disclaimer. Surely that should be enough for people to realise they are responsible for themselves and do not need any further guidance from teh club or anyone else.

AndyF

great idea but can't imagine that working at Carter Bar 🙂 🙂

AndyF

Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo

I'm more thinking that not everyone will have access to Facebook or the forum, and it might be a bit of a heart attack moment for teams that don't know about it.

If you're not concerned about the road closure then there was no need to post about it in the first place or comment on it.

If something like a blocked road gives someone a "heart attack moment" then I would strongly advise them not to take part in the RBRR.

Are we all going soft or what? Where is the "fly by your pants" attitude that used to be the norm in CT?

AndyF

I don't understand what all the fuss is about. The challenge is to drive 2000 miles in 48 hours via the set checkpoints. Some roads will be closed and others not as expected. I think it is a little unfair to expect the organisers to make any statement at this late stage.

Just get on with it and be grateful that we have modern technology that allows us to be forewarned. In the previous 40 years you would have been driving blind with just a map to improvise with.

Enjoy 🙂

AndyF

do it with a 2 person team and then you don't have these problems 🙂 🙂 🙂

AndyF

I think the warning is good but absolutely unnecessary for members of  Club Triumph.
I know not one member who would ever contemplate driving faster than the allowed maximum.
We are after all law abiding citizens and understand why there has to be a 50MPH speed limit in the north of Scotland at 03:00 hours on a mild but fresh October morning.

Good luck to all participants!!

AndyF

take the car and gearbox to a lonely road somewhere in the south of France, I have always found gearboxes go in much easier there 🙂

Some people recommend The Netherlands but to be honest I have never had much luck there.

AndyF

John,
the moderators do an important job of making sure the forum and us the users are not abused by spammers, insults and personal wars. I don't think your thread will fit into any of those and just because it is not 100% Triumph does not mean it cannot be included.

I think you have the support of the majority of the forum members who are also club members and I see no reason whatsoever that the mods and or committee should not give you a one off licence to post this thread. As Colin said we are ALL interested in hearing about the progress and after you excellent previous thread I am really looking forward to this one.

John, keep up the great work and interesting posts.

AndyF

P.S. come on Mods, give us a sign

only if you are getting engaged!!

if those readings are true you don't need to worry about the rings but you might want to be concerned about you big ends

AndyF

Quoted from Joner

This would have been unacceptable 10 years ago.  Today......c'mon, sort it out.  And there isn't even a 'pile of pooh' emoji to adequately express my contempt!!!

and unnecessary today! Why would you want to put in a picture larger than 640x480? If you can't reduce the picture size go back to repairing cars.

A little aggressive perhaps, therefore my apologies, but this forum has been serving the Club Triumph community very well for a long time. If you had been here longer you would know that a new, modern forum is being tested and will be implemented as soon as the VOLUNTEERS have it ready.

Please if you have constructive criticism please send it to one of the moderators but please DO NOT slag the forum unless you are volunteering to make the changes.

AndyF

Rob,
I think you are about 12 months early with your question.
The planning was never this early and I doubt it will be this time round 🙂 🙂

AndyF

how do you mean "front lights"? Can you turn the back lights on separately?

I expect every car has a 2 position switch where you can turn on the side lights (front and back) and the second position where you can turn on the head lights. Somewhere in the car either near your left foot or on a stalk near the steering wheel there will be a second switch to turn the head lights between dip and main.

AndyF

why "heavy duty"? I believe the 18ACR produces about 40 Amp and you will rarely use all of that. I have been driving the TR3 for years with one in and never had any problems with flat batteries.

Yes they need repairing every 2 to 3 years but at £15 a time or £50 for a rebuilt exchange unit ot an awful lot.

AndyF

please do not follow Michael's initiative and book this ferry!

Our ferry booking officer is negotiating a better rate if we make a block booking.

Details will follow nearer the time

AndyF

in a effort to make the 10CR more accessible to the wider CT audience by not having to buy expensive foreign currency or pay for expensive oversea travel and due to popular demand (52%) the 2017 10CR will be staying in England and Wales. It will be reduced to a 2 days over a weekend and the 'C' will now stand for 'Counties'

 😉 😉 🙂

AndyF

Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo

Right, a catering question has come up!

Jon, don't you think it should be something more British?

Perhaps a curry or kapuśniak would be more appropriate (he said with tongue very much in cheek) 😉 🙂

AndyF

Mr Rosso, Mr Jimbo,

"special lubricant" ?
"allan key ended studs and multi point socket head nuts" ?

erm? you do remember we are talking about triumphs here. Isn't all that a little over the top for a MK1 GT6?

AndyF

Ken,

once finger tight I start using the torque wrench at a low setting, usually about half of the final setting and tighten in sequence. I then repeat this 3 or 4 times making the added torque smaller each time. For the TR3 the setting is about 110 lb/ft so I start at 50, then 80, then 100, then 105 and finally 110. It seems to work for me.

I always make sure the threads are clean and I put a drop of normal oil on them to ensure there is as little friction as possible. I have never used flanged nuts but I presume if you do there is no requirement to use washers.

AndyF

Quoted from Hallum

120 lb/ft if I remember correctly 🙂 You can't really do it with anything other than a torque wrench. That is other than hanging a 16.5 kg mass 1m from the nut on a breaker bar (with the bar parallel to the ground) to the point where the system stops tightening - but I think that would be a bit of a faf! 😉

Harry

you could try it the other way around. Find something that weighs about 16kg and lift it. Try to remember how much effort you put into doing that. Put your breaker bar on the nut and lift it until you are putting in the same effort (feel the pain). This is presuming your breaker bar is about 1 meter long.

You should get somewhere near but as Jimbo has already said buy yourself a torque wrench you will be surprised how often you need it and DO NOT lend it to others!!

AndyF

It is a Morris Twenty from 1935 with freewheel and Bendix clutch control.

I now know there was perhaps not enough oil getting to the clutch plate although enough was in the bellhousing, I will need to look at that. I have also presumed that the oil will be pressed out of cork easier than out of the new material which could mean I need stronger springs. BTW if you are replacing with corks do not put in used corks as they are usually damaged from teh cork screw.

The bendix clutch control is inactivated but it could be the freewheel clutch that is causing the problem but as I do not yet have a workshop manual for it I do not want to take it apart.

Thanks for all your input it has ben really helpful.

AndyF

this is not a Triumph related issue and I am hoping there are some people on here that have experience with clutches that run in oil?

The clutch has only done about 150 miles since I rebuilt the engine. It was relined by a specialist, not with cork but with a material I was told was a replacement in a wet clutch environment.

On our drive out yesterday I noticed it was slipping, especially in 3rd and 4th gears and particularly when driving up hills.

I spent this afternoon taking out the gearbox as I have decided I will replace the pressure plate springs with new ones and also to see if anything else was amiss.

The clutch plate looks as though it has survived quite well as has the pressure plate and the flywheel. When I “cracked” the gearbox from the engine oil did come out as I was expecting but the inside of the clutch i.e. plate and pressure plate look rather dry.

So back to the title of my post “how wet should it be inside the clutch?”

Looking forward to your answers
AndyF

I would have thought a 13mm open ended spanner would fit.

I would not mess around and either take all the nuts off using an adjustable spanner and replace or make one of my spanners into a "special" tool that is only used for this adjustment.

AndyF

Quoted from booley

excellent idea, why didn't Triumph think of that?

they did! take a look at any TR2.

AndyF