Andy Flexney
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Posts posted by Andy Flexney
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GT6 M
ahh you mean the Oil seal Retainer and not the flange on the inner axle shaft.
Now I understand
AndyF -
Quoted from JohnD
T
You accelerate wear every time you do a cold start.
but leaving the engine running all winter is not really economical although the garage would stay warm.
AndyF -
now those pictures look familiar. Same thing happened to mine years ago so went back to using the original type.
I picked up 2 at spares days and had them professionally rebuilt so now I always have a spare.
AndyF -
Quoted from Beans
Thx ... and good to see another wedge convert
oh no they will be taking over the world!
We have to stop them
AndyF -
use open with whatever program you use to view pictures with. It is a jpeg or something similar in disguise
AndyF -
is this s split column steering or a one piece steering?
I do not have that mark on the split column steering I have so I am presuming it was put there by a previous owner to mark where to put the steering wheel back on or rejoin the split column.
AndF -
I would try without sealant if the faces are flat then you don't need sealant. If it does not seal then have the faces skimmed. Also make sure you try to keep them dry once installed. If the get soaked and then hot the water expands and destroys the paper filling.
AndyF -
Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo
Is speaking Dutch required for this event?
no the natives are quite friendly.
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depending which dip switch you have you might be able to drill out the rivets and open it up.
The switch operates by turning a square peg through 90 degrees every time the button is pushed. On 2 opposing sides are the contacts for dip and the other 2 opposing sides are the contacts are for main beam.
After a clean and a bend of the contacts you can put it back together with new rivets. All doable on the kitchen table.
or buy a new one
Andy -
I think the inertia switch might be necessary on a high pressure system but not on one running at 2 or 3 PSI. Cars have been using low pressure electric petrol pumps for over 70 years and most that I have seen do not have an inertia switch.
AndyF -
First of all make sure you are using a LHD gear box if the steering wheel is to be on the left hand side of the car.
if you are lucky the scroll will be reusable okay and you will only need to replace the pin in the arm.
Put in new seals and bearings and build together according to the workshop handbook making sure the end float is set correctly and the arm linkage is set to the correct angle. This can take a few attempts so put it together "dry" i.e. without sealant until you have it right.
If you do this you should have a pretty good steering box which will be a little 'tight' as it moves over the middle point. If you want to add more adjustment TR Revington offer a reworked top cover which allows you to add more pressure downward pressure to the pin and arm. This stops the pin riding high and will reduce some of the play in the middle position.
You might also want to replace the rubber bushes (part number: 105063) in the middle tie rod with bronze bushes and stainless steel pins. These make the steering a little lighter and also more responsive. However, they will need replacing after 70000 to 80000 miles.
AndyF
P.S. you could always just install a rack and pinion conversion? 🙂 -
I would suggest the pipes running under the gearbox i.e. not close to the chassis have been put on back to front.
And I would further suggest that is only possible when an overdrive is not fitted.
AndyF -
I would suggest taking a good look at the radiator if your standard fan is not managing to keep the engine cool.
I don't understand why the standard fans were okay back in 1960s but are no good now, unless of course you have increased the power of your engine.
Not sure if this would fit the Vitesse but the TR3 guys used to swap the original metal fan for a plastic fan from a BMW 2002. It was a straight swap apart from having to enlarge the holes for the bolts slightly. The modern design meant that more air was being moved but of course at the cost of horse power.
AndyF -
Quoted from thescrapman
Why not??
History!
and if the game is too hard? Change the game not the rules!
AndyF -
what a great bit of club history thanks for posting this Keith
AndyF -
take it as a challenge to learn to master these cars instead of trying to change them into moderns.
AndyF -
It must have been a fast shutter speed to catch you on camera 😉
AndyF -
did anyone discover this already?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=HWwnU-h6XeQ
From one of the German teams
AndyF -
I seem to remember that TR5 rims should be 5 inch and TR4a are 4.5 inches but I maybe wrong.
Do not powder coat the rims. If this cracks and water gets in they will start to rot from the inside i.e. under the powder coating and you will not notice until the rim collapses. Ask me how I know 🙂
Andy -
after the great responses about the engine mounts here another tricky question.
I have a 4" (100mm) spot/fog/search light but apart from the casing and the glass there is nothing there. I am looking for an insert i.e. reflector and bulb holder but it could also be a sealed unit. I would like to use it as a fog/search light or at least something with a wide beam. I could buy a complete new unit but the mountings are for this one which I would like to keep.
I had thought of cannibalizing one of these super LED torches but they all seem to work off strange (not 12) voltage.
Any ideas?
AndyF -
Many thanks
Looking at the pictures on Google it looks like those engine mounts have a metal casing which would interfere with the movement on my application.
But I did we some Powerflex bushes that might work. I will have to contact them.
AndyF -
Quoted from bxbodger
A BX rear lower engine mount is a similar size and shape. They're common across many PSA cars.
Sorry what do you mean with "BX" and "PSA cars"
Thanks for the tip with Landover but they look like they have a stud bonded in. I can't use them as I need to put a bolt through.
AndyF -
Hi,
anyone any ideas where I might find some rubber doughnuts to use as engine mounts?
They are 60 mm in diameter with a 14.5mm hole and about 30mm high.
I have found loads of different engine mounts on the internet but nothing suitable.
Thanks
AndyF -
with all due respect we are a Triumph forum and a GT6 with an electric motor or any other motor apart from a Triumph 6 pot is not a Triumph!
I thought people drove triumphs because of the rough and ready, can do attitude not top make it into an easy to drive euro box. If you want to build a kit car please do so but do not waste a good Triumph body doing it.
AndyF
CT Warwickshire Winter 12 Car
in Comps & Motorsport
Posted
it certainly was a great day out and I enjoyed the challenge once I had been given a push start.
I liked the different navigation methods although I am no good at some and didn't even know the others 🙂 but looking forward to the next one.
AndyF