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frenchiemk2

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Posts posted by frenchiemk2

  1. Well, I worked on the saloon yesterday in order to spot the problem(s) and or find solutions. I have a problem unsolved since Jan 7th Starting with this problem

    I reset the PRV at the exact request 106-110 before cranking (new, for Bosch pump). OK

    I checked ignition and it's good on all sparks (cleaned and gaped BP6ES) OK

    Surprisingly, the advance setting was wrong whereas i did it a few weeks ago! (The disributor was grinded by the metal ring retainer!) OK

    Vacuum at the master cylinder and depression tank strong and hold OK

    In the french roadbook, the timing is supposedly set at 7 BTDC (non dynamic?), but when i checked with vacuum gauge, i had less than 5 Hg. In order to get a better vacuum, i had to increase the timing up to close 18° and got 12-13Hg but not stable.

    Also what i have checked before valves gaps OK and also  the admission throttles are unbalanced :

    - Throttle left (c6-c5) even,

    - throttle center (c4-c3) left is weaker than right

    - throttle right (c2-c1) left is weaker than right

    - c6, c5, c3, c1 are even so the admission is a bit unbalanced.

     

    Could it be a leak at the inlet outlet gasket causing those vacuum troubles?

  2. Well, pushed myself in order to spot the problem(s) and or find solutions.

    I rest the PRV at the exact request 106-110 before cranking.

    I checked ignition and it's good on all sparks (cleaned and gaped BP6ES)

    Surprisingly, the advance setting was wrong whereas i did it a few weeks ago!

    In the french roadbook, the yiming is supposedly set at 7 BTDC, but when i checked with vacuum gauge, i had less than 5 Hg. In order to get a better vacuum, i had to increase the timing up to close 18° and got 12-13Hg but not stable.

    This timing is very high for a supposed standard car!

    Also what i detected is a difference at admission throttles :

    - Throttle left (c6-c5) even,

    - throttle center (c4-c3) left is weaker than right

    - throttle right (c2-c1) left is weaker than right

    - c6, c5, c3, c1 are even so the admission is a bit unbalanced.

     

    Where's the problem and how to fix it?

    Thanks for your comments and advise.

     

  3. Ok.

    I have replaced the M.U central diaphragm after i cleaned the complete unit.

    Still no change, always that bad running sound like a misfiring but it's not the case and i still can't eliminate a M.U problem.

    My lambda gauge says it's still lean ( from 13 to unreadable ).

    When i pull the air hose off of the M.U, the engine runs a little better.

    When i take off the upper rear conic cap of the M.U, the engine runs correctly around 13 at idle and 14 at revs.

    Shall it be the vacum diaphragm eventhough i did not spot a crack or hole?

     

     

     

  4. On 02/04/2024 at 10:03, JohnD said:

    I don't think that Louis the Xteenth ever attended a motor racing event.

    Maybe he tried with a 8 horses powered royal coach... however, the people would let him win...😅

    1st french king represented with blue clothes is Louis XIII but nothing to do with racing blue. It was a dark blue, wheras the racing blue takes origins in the early 20th century racing cars rules.

    What i meant is despite the basis (english typical car with sort of racing green : unsure what it is), i want to contrast and provide a 70's french sports look.

    But underneath it's a 55 Valencia blue original paint (shame it's been pained green with that beautiful blue)...😢

  5. Hi guys

    I like very much the design of the late TC, S or Stag frontgrill design, but i don't know if they fit to my 1972 PI.

    I believe there were plastic and aluminium models and maybe the Stag isn't quite the exact same as the Mk2.

    Any hints and help?

    Thanks.

    2500TC76.jpg

  6. On 07/01/2024 at 20:01, frenchiemk2 said:

    Well... end of year was deceiving.

    I went to a small garage nearby in which i know the owner for long to make oil changes on box and rear train + front engine mounts..

    On the way to the garage, in a roundabout (we take them turn left here ) the car started to rattle a bit. At the garage we could do the job but the car seemed to turn on 5 cyl or whatever wrong.

    At a moment we did not have any ignition because the ignitor disengaged from the insert (just like it's notenough engaged in) and that clamp seemed  faulty and sure the bolt thread was defective, that made the ignitor rotate... even with a new bolt it's not tightened enough. Did anyone enconutered this before? 

    A mistake by G was to touch the settings i did on the throttles 😕 

    I could reach back home but the engine ran worst eventhough i could help myself out by the side of the road.

    I thought it could be air or particles in the fuel system or valves setting gone wrong.

    Friday and saturday i have redone the fuel pump and filter Bosch in the trunk, checked all the injectors and they spray fine, checked valve adjustment again, just minor settings... at one moment i could set idle and get to 4500 RPM and then it failed again.

    What the hell is wrong...

    On the try to set the throttle back to an operant setting i noticed that 1st and 3rd throttle have a slight depression difference 1st inlet has more depression than the second and 5th has more than 6th (seems well balanced on 3rd-4th). As you imagine, i know no one in France able to check those or have them redone and in GB, takes veryyyy long + VAT and customs fees. 

    20240107_142029.jpg

    Problem unsolved since : engine hiccups /idling/misfiring like

    For the record, the car ran great till i made a left turn at a roundabout... So it hapened all of a sudden. it's like you run on 3 cylinders on a 4 cylindres car.

    Can't get reving but the engine starts fine and idle till i don't accelerate. then running bad and can't reach 4000 rpm (depends on the advance and air valve ).

    What I did or check since :

    - new fuelpump 044 (seems to feed 7 bars)

    - new spark plugs and gapped : there's spark everywhere.

    - new lead cables

    - new cap and rotor arm

    - new coil (and tested with the older one) and new ballast

    - new tested electronic ignition module 

    - Advance timing set 8 to 10 before TDC (advance adjuster on distributor works)

    - setting valves clearance again

    - setting throttles (small differences sometimes on left-right inlets on the same body) but average sounds good

    - all injectors spray (maybe i will check the amonut of fuel delivered to compare them)

    - M.U renewed and yesterday i cleaned the inlet filter. Rubber seal keeps depression on succion

    - new fuel + octane booster additive (in case the 10l fuel in tank was bad )

    -The alternator is charging nice (new) but heating a bit.

    What i noticed is on cold start during the first 5 seconds the lambda indicates 14 and drops to 17 and no reading value (getting poor)...

    I want to ask for a compression tester to check cylinders/head/valves gaps...

    Any suggestion of that sudden problem caused by?

     

     

  7. On 09/03/2024 at 16:19, frenchiemk2 said:

    Vey interesting.

    As i struggled a lot with my "long time ago convereted to Bosch french PI", i'm very interested in this post.

    i had a very bad experience with the Sytec (OTP44 -3044.1), I bought 1 and since the begining had the "-' pole moving but did not fail at ignition, then when in order to run, there was a fuel leak at succion😬! then after few hours, it couldn't keep pressure charge and fainted.

    If i had an estate tank, i'd certainly try to install a pierburg immersed fuel pump (new hole and cap) with bag filter:  no leak, no distance succion or hose diameter  problems.

    On more recent car, those pumps can feed distributors for longer cars, and the filters can be located just before metering units like Audi 100-200 Avant turbo. I know, the Bosch K-jet needs less pressure than the Lucas M.U. 

    Now i have put a real 044 Bosch but I still wonder if it's working good enough ( i guess YES because I poped out the injectors and they sprayed nice).

    Also, i think i will try a swirling pot (because on long left turns with low fuel, the Pi tank is not helping and if you know a bit France, we have not only turnig roads, but also those roundabouts on every f.road...). 

    I saw nice mountings here with Dash connectors, but did not invest in those, maybe i should.

    One question someone may answer is about positive pressure

    in the tank ?

    - between the tank and the swirl pot/external fuel pump? i think putting a small facett just after the tank to pre-feed the pot.

    What i did : low pressure pump to feed the swilrpot, 044 pump to the line (Bosch set valve) and a pressure gauge on a T link  before the M.U

    The prefilter will be changed for a bigger one.

    PI fuelpump tankk.jpg

    PI T reader.jpg

  8. 51 minutes ago, mikeyb said:

    30+ years ago when I first started venturing into France in a Triumph, I used to buy a little bottle of "paint on yellow" that was readitly available at the time.  Worked a treat and cleaned off easily with white spirit up my return 

    LINK!

    A quick google would seem to imply that it's still readily available...

    I assume you want these covers for aesthetic reasons rather than compliance?  If for compliance, why not just pick up a set of LHD 5 1/4" Cibies or similar?

    Exactly, just for aesthetics : i want a 70's french racing look on a racing green Triumph. Already has french alloys, soon an exhaust with conic tip (Devil like). So the beams must be somehow yellow but i don't want to varnish them and be quickly reversible ( i arlready bought a PEBEO yellow varnish for a second set of KOITO beams i had formerly)

    • Like 1
  9. 14 hours ago, 65redspit said:

    The French govt were right … it does !!

    It does but most time weather clear and more difficult to see at night and particularly when raining at night.

    We were so happy to change the bulbs... Then we eventually discovered that even clear beams were poor and it was not only a matter of color... 😉

  10. 5 hours ago, Brian Ridley-Jones said:

    Try fleabay

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=yellow+headlight+convert&_sacat=0&_odkw=troumph+tr8&_osacat=0

    first holiday to France in the 1960s, headlights were painted yellow. Subsequent holidays left as white and apart from a few locals flashing, but soon stopped when full white beam returned, nothing ever happened!

    yep, tired to pay much for postage and fees... 😏

  11. 44 minutes ago, JohnD said:

    France instituted yellow headlights over eighty years ago.    It was either so that the French Army could see if the Germans were moving at night or else for the Germans to see if the French Resistance were about, stories vary!   But got rid of them in 1993.   Do you want to - can you legally? - still use them?

    John

    Hi, 

    What i learnt is here in France government chose yellow light because it's easier to see on snowy landscape (yes... no comment).

    Well as main laws are not retroactive, you are allowed to still use yellow beams even now and no one will check the conformity/model.

    I had 3 Scirocco Mk1 having 4 yellow tinted beams...

    All i want, is to make an easy old looking car, reminding sports cars of the 70'S on meetings (Wheels, exhaust, spoiler, beams and bumpers off))

     

  12. 16 minutes ago, JohnD said:

    frenchie

    the pressure does oscillate.  I made a pressure gauge from a spare oil pressure gauge, and it oscillated so much it oscillated the needle off the stem!   You need a damper.  The best gauges are oil filled to do this, but I did it by inserting in the connector a copper disc with a tiny hole in the middle of it.     I drilled from both sides until I could JUST see a tiny chink of light though the hole.

    John 

    True, oil filled ones are easier to read.

    I asked myself about digital ones. Some have an outer bars for 1st reading and a digital number as 2nd reading. Maybe it's an average pressure i don't know.

    This one is cheap re-use. Oscillating only in between 1 bar... so not the worst.

    The oil filled ones i know are bigger and may not fit.

  13. Well, it will look much like this 

    It's only 1L swirlpot but i wish enough for long curves left with nearly empty tank.

    - Short of 8mm fuel hose to connect as i want

    - low pressure pump will be attached or on silentblocs

    - and this pre filter wont last long, searching an aluminium larger prefilter, but interstingly, there's air inside... that's an issue...

    - at the very least, i'll try to adapt the PI wood floor if i can.

     

     

    trunk luc.jpg

    My Pi fuel 2.png

  14. OK

    Next step will be improving fuel feeding.

    I bought a swirl pot for Bosch pump and an additional low pressure pump.

    Trying to figure out the best way to connect all this. At the moment guessing which is best : A or B or AB...

    And also how to secure and bolt the mounting (additional stainless steel plate fold between fuel filter mount and swirlpot mount?).

    My Pi fuel.png

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