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Posts posted by frenchiemk2
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11 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:
Does the gauge work ?
Yes, the needle seems moving accordingly to fuel level.
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On 09/10/2023 at 21:25, thescrapman said:
Assuming everything is setup correctly, try fitting Stag handbrake levers, they give a bit more leverage.
Got the hand brakes work fine today.
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18 hours ago, Rosbif said:
I use Datch in France for parts for my 13/60, they do list parts for some of the bigger Triumphs, worth a look just in case - postage is of course much less than abroad
https://www.datch.fr/fr/machoiresplaquettes-c-2_44_4411_441111_44111112.html
Thanks for local french zone link
I have found those international ref :
- OEN 513083 TRIUMPH
- OEN 520243 TRIUMPH
- OEN GBP245 TRIUMPH
- MINTEX Classic MX4597
- MINTEX MLB40 (M1144) the best i think
- OEN 20364 TRW
- OEN 20365 TRW
- BREMBO EAN 8020584051764
- DELPHI (20364)
- Jurid 571233J
- ABE C1G011ABE
- FERODO FVR833
- Quinton Hazel BP170
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other brands
- OE GBP242 — ROVER
- OE AEU1546 — ROVER
- OE 5022397 — FORD
- OE 5010540 — FORD
- OE 1571569 — FORD
- OE 571569 — FORD
- OE 6567001 — FORD
- OE 5015932 — FORD
- OE 1642643 — FORD
- OE 86VB2K021BB — FORD
- OE 86VX2K021AA — FORD
- OE 87VX2K021BA — FORD
- OE 89VB2K021BA — FORD
- OE 89VX2K021AA — FORD
- OE 89VX2KO21AA — FORD
- OE 76VB2K021AA — FORD
- OE A82SX2K021LA — FORD
- OE 5018907 — FORD
- OE 91109274 — BEDFORD
- OE 91126365 — BEDFORD
- OE RTGBP3400 — RELIANCE
- OE 20365 — BREMBO
- OE 20364 — BREMBO
- OE RTC3261 — DAF
- OE 91014594 — VAUXHALL
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Sometimes things go wrong.
I'm in the brakes issues solving and i ordered brakes pads for my Pi Mk 2 at LIMORA. I secretely wished that it could be easier and cheaper from Germany than from GB... NOOOOOOOO
The link to the pads https://www.limora.com/fr/mintex-plaquettes-de-frein/13376/ you see, description (2000 & 2500) and picture are correct, but they look like this.
Does anyone of you know on which other cars i can find the right pads (search by model)?
Thanks
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Presently the wheels are french vintage Delta Mics in 6x15. The guy i bought them from near Nogaro racetrack and has old cars (car events organisation) told me they were on a TR3 that raced at Le Mans... Never saw a picture or documentation of that assertion.
I got them renewed locally and put 185/65 HR15 Toyo Proxes on.
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12 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
Sticking pistons in the calipers is a strong possibility unfortunately. The Lockheed “dust shield” arrangement seems designed to promote this. Taking the pads out one at a time and carefully pressing the brake pedal to pump the single piston out (don’t go too far!!) before levering it gently back in will give you an idea of how bad they are. If the chrome plating on the pistons is rusty/pitted, it’s rebuild time.
Bear in mind that the saloon brake discs are really expensive, so if you do need to renew everything it’s worth considering finding a pair of Stag calipers to rebuild instead. The calipers and discs are a direct swap but the discs are cheaper and bigger and the calipers have slightly bigger pistons, so you getter better brakes. Actual pads stay the same and the whole lot looks almost the same as before.
Just be careful that the wheels will still fit over the brakes. The original 13” steel wheels will not. 13” alloys sometimes fit. 14” good.
If you just need a couple of standard size pistons is possible I have some ok used ones here….
Thanks
I did this yesterday and the pistons move fine... I think the car was renewed before it had a cooling problem and was stored.
Really rear and front look new.
What the C.T guy said (MOT fail) :
-front left caliper no brake force
- rear no brakes force left and right
- rear right park brakes don't work so issue to balance force too
-rear left wheel bearing not tightened enough.
- hole in the 1st muffler central exhaust
yesterday i had a look at the front left caliper. Pistons move nice but there was grease on the pads and disc. I sanded the pads a bit and cleaned the disc too. Then i had a ride to test. At first half convincing but once the running-in done it seemed correct.
i ordered a new set of Mintex so that i don't have contaminated pads and improve braking.
today i'll check the rear as i have a set of new rear cylinders but again they look good and no leak. I'll try to make the pistons move with pliers first and check the brakes cables and adjusts.
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46 minutes ago, Wendy Dawes said:
Great that it’s now driving at last, you’re right a little at a time, I started out just 2 or 3 miles in my herald after recommissioning, two years on and it’s still needing bits done but it’s almost there. 👍
Yes. One fixing after another.
I've ordered the renewal kit for master cylinder.
Have to check if left caliper is a bit seized or something.
Maybe a leak between 1st section and exhaust line (but i plan to put a center inox line I've got plus a vintage dual Devil cone).
And for the rest, the MOT guy will tell me.
But since then i can do papers and register the car as mine.
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Picture taken at the local monthly meeting by a photographer dedicated to automotive and vintage cars.
I'm not fond of front view of the Saloon but this one gives her much credit.
Also talked to a local French guy who owned a white 2000 with overdrive (i didn't know they had).
Much interest in the car, people turning around to find make and model hints.
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39 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:
Looks great! Hopefully it’s driving great too?
Controle Technique passed ok?
😌Controle technique is next tuesday
I drove only 2 miles, but at 1st sight i have unbalanced front brakes , tends to go on the right when breaking hard... i'll have a look tomorrow if can do better.
But it's great driving a car you worked a lot on. I need test drives to get confidence for longer rides.
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2 hours ago, glang said:
Surely the splined section of studs are different sizes so its essential to get that right when choosing replacements?
Yes, i have to check each one (front/left)...
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29 minutes ago, thescrapman said:
It may be easier for you to get M12 studs and wheel nuts rather than try to get imperial ones
Not sure i can put longer rear studs because not much room left on the rear without disassembling all
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20 hours ago, Rosbif said:
Do the cars actually sell for those asking prices that is the critical point.
Not sure they sell... full of cars at high price that stay long or disappear after a certain time in offers.
But old cars are getting very expensive on market even when they have no record, no history, no bills no maintenance and sometimes no papers (french sport)
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3 minutes ago, DVD3500 said:
Is it me or are LHD Triumph saloons pretty rare anyway?
More rare than the sports cars in any case...
I don't have any idea how much have been made LHD... rare in France, before mine, I never saw any of thema wheareas I saw Dolomite Sprint, all the TR, GT6, Spits, Herald and even Stags...
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16 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said:
Planning to put my rebuilt alloys on the saloon.
They seem to be 15" X 5 so they'll come with 185 tires and see what happens with the offset (could be good).
My question is about wheel studs and bolts. If i measured well, it's 1.71 inch at rear and 1.38 inch at front
I thought buying 7/16 unf strud 55mm for the rear and genuine rear to put at front.
Is it ok?
Any link is welcome
They are conic steel inserts in alloy wheels
I spotted those studs, anyone could tell if they are the right ones exist in 55 and 45 mm ? https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/7-16-unf-wheel-stud-55mm-long-ws-7-16-2-1-4
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Planning to put my rebuilt alloys on the saloon.
They seem to be 15" X 5 so they'll come with 185 tires and see what happens with the offset (could be good).
My question is about wheel studs and bolts. If i measured well, it's 1.71 inch at rear and 1.38 inch at front
I thought buying 7/16 unf strud 55mm for the rear and genuine rear to put at front.
Is it ok?
Any link is welcome
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Just before i bought my Pi, 3 years ago, i began looking for prices on mk2 and also mk1 saloons.
At that era, you could find a mk2 2l very nice and running/ driving for 5k € and Pi very good condition at about 7-8K €.
Today the exact same 2000 is for sale 9500€(with maintenance bills) and any very nice PI is in the range 12-14K €. Same with Dolomite Sprint.
In 3 years... I asked Michel who owns a Mk1 Pi and he has no idea why or what's happening.
My guess is that all GT6, TR6, but also Spitfire have become unaffordable, making of the Saloons 6 cylinders decent alternatives now.
I don't especially want to argue a lot, just wondering why public prices got close to twice in only 3 years.
Top 1 dare over rated price in France is this one. Maybe pictures aren't good enough... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1451554512303594/
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About my "french" 72 Pi, the onboard documentation says "RON 97 or supérior".
Here we only have had 98 RON for a long time. Were the continental engine head modified to run 98 or do i need to put lead substitute?
Thanks.
My 1st ever Triumph (Mk2 2500Pi)
in Projects
Posted
Thanks, i'll check that.
One thing's for sure : low level light doesn't appear.