frenchiemk2

Diaphragm issue... fuel leak Ordered at Rimmer Bros for faster shipping. OMG will she run one day 🙄

Maybe he tried with a 8 horses powered royal coach... however, the people would let him win...😅 1st french king represented with blue clothes is Louis XIII but nothing to do with racing blue. It was a dark blue, wheras the racing blue takes origins in the early 20th century racing cars rules. What i meant is despite the basis (english typical car with sort of racing green : unsure what it is), i want to contrast and provide a 70's french sports look. But underneath it's a 55 Valencia blue original paint (shame it's been pained green with that beautiful blue)...😢

Hi guys I like very much the design of the late TC, S or Stag frontgrill design, but i don't know if they fit to my 1972 PI. I believe there were plastic and aluminium models and maybe the Stag isn't quite the exact same as the Mk2. Any hints and help? Thanks.

Fuel pressure at idle.

I found today that 2 injectors don't open or don't spray correctly. Try to clean them ultrasonic bath thing i will be borrowed. Found a pair of new ones 1 hour drive from home. Think it's gonna make it.

I don't want an Alpine look like 😅

Problem unsolved since : engine hiccups /idling/misfiring like For the record, the car ran great till i made a left turn at a roundabout... So it hapened all of a sudden. it's like you run on 3 cylinders on a 4 cylindres car. Can't get reving but the engine starts fine and idle till i don't accelerate. then running bad and can't reach 4000 rpm (depends on the advance and air valve ). What I did or check since : - new fuelpump 044 (seems to feed 7 bars) - new spark plugs and gapped : there's spark everywhere. - new lead cables - new cap and rotor arm - new coil (and tested with the older one) and new ballast - new tested electronic ignition module - Advance timing set 8 to 10 before TDC (advance adjuster on distributor works) - setting valves clearance again - setting throttles (small differences sometimes on left-right inlets on the same body) but average sounds good - all injectors spray (maybe i will check the amonut of fuel delivered to compare them) - M.U renewed and yesterday i cleaned the inlet filter. Rubber seal keeps depression on succion - new fuel + octane booster additive (in case the 10l fuel in tank was bad ) -The alternator is charging nice (new) but heating a bit. What i noticed is on cold start during the first 5 seconds the lambda indicates 14 and drops to 17 and no reading value (getting poor)... I want to ask for a compression tester to check cylinders/head/valves gaps... Any suggestion of that sudden problem caused by?

What i did : low pressure pump to feed the swilrpot, 044 pump to the line (Bosch set valve) and a pressure gauge on a T link before the M.U The prefilter will be changed for a bigger one.

Exactly, just for aesthetics : i want a 70's french racing look on a racing green Triumph. Already has french alloys, soon an exhaust with conic tip (Devil like). So the beams must be somehow yellow but i don't want to varnish them and be quickly reversible ( i arlready bought a PEBEO yellow varnish for a second set of KOITO beams i had formerly)

It does but most time weather clear and more difficult to see at night and particularly when raining at night. We were so happy to change the bulbs... Then we eventually discovered that even clear beams were poor and it was not only a matter of color... 😉

yep, tired to pay much for postage and fees... 😏

Hi, What i learnt is here in France government chose yellow light because it's easier to see on snowy landscape (yes... no comment). Well as main laws are not retroactive, you are allowed to still use yellow beams even now and no one will check the conformity/model. I had 3 Scirocco Mk1 having 4 yellow tinted beams... All i want, is to make an easy old looking car, reminding sports cars of the 70'S on meetings (Wheels, exhaust, spoiler, beams and bumpers off))

Hi, Any of you have those Lucas yellow beams caps X4 5 1/2 for 2000 2500 Stag? In search of 2 pairs as i don't want to tint the genuine clear beams. Thanks

True, oil filled ones are easier to read. I asked myself about digital ones. Some have an outer bars for 1st reading and a digital number as 2nd reading. Maybe it's an average pressure i don't know. This one is cheap re-use. Oscillating only in between 1 bar... so not the worst. The oil filled ones i know are bigger and may not fit.

Still not a proper filter yet. But this is nearly the end of adjustments. Have to create a custom cap on top of this...

Before i put a 12v sensor and 10 bar pressure gauge, reusing the former gauge. (Indicates around 7bar as oscillating btw 6-8. I wish i could have a better stabilized reading) Link to T union provider in France

Nice setup. You still have a metering unit like Pi's? And got the correct pressure?

Well, it will look much like this It's only 1L swirlpot but i wish enough for long curves left with nearly empty tank. - Short of 8mm fuel hose to connect as i want - low pressure pump will be attached or on silentblocs - and this pre filter wont last long, searching an aluminium larger prefilter, but interstingly, there's air inside... that's an issue... - at the very least, i'll try to adapt the PI wood floor if i can.

Step by step (ooh baby, gonna get to you girl) 😅 Well seems i don't have a return line to tank around there... Maybe insert a T after the PRV to return to the swirl pot ?

OK Next step will be improving fuel feeding. I bought a swirl pot for Bosch pump and an additional low pressure pump. Trying to figure out the best way to connect all this. At the moment guessing which is best : A or B or AB... And also how to secure and bolt the mounting (additional stainless steel plate fold between fuel filter mount and swirlpot mount?).

I think there are sellers in France. You can have at LIMORA (deutschland) but i don't recomand them. If you need any help here in France, just ask.

Those are very nice in black + mirror rim and edges

Vey interesting. As i struggled a lot with my "long time ago convereted to Bosch french PI", i'm very interested in this post. i had a very bad experience with the Sytec (OTP44 -3044.1), I bought 1 and since the begining had the "-' pole moving but did not fail at ignition, then when in order to run, there was a fuel leak at succion😬! then after few hours, it couldn't keep pressure charge and fainted. If i had an estate tank, i'd certainly try to install a pierburg immersed fuel pump (new hole and cap) with bag filter: no leak, no distance succion or hose diameter problems. On more recent car, those pumps can feed distributors for longer cars, and the filters can be located just before metering units like Audi 100-200 Avant turbo. I know, the Bosch K-jet needs less pressure than the Lucas M.U. Now i have put a real 044 Bosch but I still wonder if it's working good enough ( i guess YES because I poped out the injectors and they sprayed nice). Also, i think i will try a swirling pot (because on long left turns with low fuel, the Pi tank is not helping and if you know a bit France, we have not only turnig roads, but also those roundabouts on every f.road...). I saw nice mountings here with Dash connectors, but did not invest in those, maybe i should. One question someone may answer is about positive pressure : - in the tank ? - between the tank and the swirl pot/external fuel pump? i think putting a small facett just after the tank to pre-feed the pot.

Yes i cleaned the throttles before the first start that was more than a year now. You're right about the distributor, 180° false, the reason why it didn't engage correctly, and the clam was bent so i fixed that, but still, not runing today (very cold outside). Ther's spark. I'll check again if there's fuel coming from the pump (new Bosch 044 which are supposed to be the best). Martin from Millturn also answered me about the possible throttle issues and how to detect them. Sometimes i feel like 5cyl Audi have less issues... and i know quite well they have, sometimes. Just for fun, imagine a 10V turbo 160-180Hp in a triumph with that peculiar sound...

Well... end of year was deceiving. I went to a small garage nearby in which i know the owner for long to make oil changes on box and rear train + front engine mounts.. On the way to the garage, in a roundabout (we take them turn left here ) the car started to rattle a bit. At the garage we could do the job but the car seemed to turn on 5 cyl or whatever wrong. At a moment we did not have any ignition because the ignitor disengaged from the insert (just like it's notenough engaged in) and that clamp seemed faulty and sure the bolt thread was defective, that made the ignitor rotate... even with a new bolt it's not tightened enough. Did anyone enconutered this before? A mistake by G was to touch the settings i did on the throttles 😕 I could reach back home but the engine ran worst eventhough i could help myself out by the side of the road. I thought it could be air or particles in the fuel system or valves setting gone wrong. Friday and saturday i have redone the fuel pump and filter Bosch in the trunk, checked all the injectors and they spray fine, checked valve adjustment again, just minor settings... at one moment i could set idle and get to 4500 RPM and then it failed again. What the hell is wrong... On the try to set the throttle back to an operant setting i noticed that 1st and 3rd throttle have a slight depression difference 1st inlet has more depression than the second and 5th has more than 6th (seems well balanced on 3rd-4th). As you imagine, i know no one in France able to check those or have them redone and in GB, takes veryyyy long + VAT and customs fees.