frenchiemk2

Interesting question Not sure as i never saw any Lucas injector If i can find a measure then can compare the 2 types and fit the same gap as the Lucas.

They are Bosch. They were in the car when i bought it (all explained in the complete thread)

AFR set installed yesterday in my saloon

News from today. Monday, i installed new linkage rods + bushes from Fred Millturn Parts (Martin, thank you very much) I also cleaned degreased the main linkage before repositioning Yesterday, I installed an AFR set (AEM) I also got rid of a leak at injector Nb 2. I used the hack that John Bell1 gave me and it works easy with a dudgeon thing; no rotation, no leak. Now I have to work on adjusting the settings (seems to much Rev at warm idle) and blead the brakes!

Well i put all together to check if any leak after cleaning. Note the DIY add inside the reservoir : 2 small magnets to catch rust particles.

thanks. I was confused because the ref was different but it seems it changed... OE Lockheed - GMC218 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-518703

"everyday, everyday, evreyday i write the booook..." 🎶 Today I dismanteled the brakes fluid reservoir from the master cylinder because i wanted to clean it from dirt and rust particles. Well now it's cleaned but the 2 O ring seals have to be replaced (slight cracks on both) and of course i haven't got the faintest idea wher to get new ones. I emailed C.Witor... If you have any idea? Ref is for Lockheed 3212-815c 13"

I bled twice the brakes system without any gain... well only balanced brakes the 25% I had on the rear right to the front right... when my son could help + traces of light bubbles (water?) and dust/rust particles remixing in the master cylinder reservoir. So today i replaced all the flexible hoses for brand new Witor's inox set. Rear cylinders are nice so I let them in place (like all breakes system had been replaced before the car was stored). I will only replace when i bleed if any doubt). Front left caliper seem a little oiled, i don't know now if the piston seal is damaged or what. I'll check that too when i will be able to bleed. i pushed all the old brake fluid with pressure from the reservoir, to drain all contaminated old fluid (500ml). What i noticed is that the fluid couldn't bleed through old hoses, even with pressure.

4 new brakes hoses from C.W.

The car has no C.T (french MOT) and still something to solve about brakes. Bleeding to be done again since 3 wheels don't brake. Also waiting for renewal parts for the torn linkage. Today i found sucking at the 1st cylinder 1st throttle and a little bit at the 2nd when reving... Maybe in progress... Also solved the mystery of vanishing gas... Look what was leaking under the car... Isn't that ironic...

The news. Sounds better but not set. I set timing at 11° (25D Lucas vacuum unit at mid marks) but it looks like the engine wants more advance... so i dosed between 25D/air screw and seems almost good. Cold start is good, warm engine too. Revs fine, only a little rattle at very early engaging pedal on acceleration. But still impossible to balance all 3 throttles because no depression at the 1st body! (2 and 3 are well balanced ; it's an early model with only 1 air feed/balance system) Checks and process : - done : new rubbers to mastervac and metal air tank, air valve the right way and seems functional - done : 2 new rubbers linkage between throttles - checked : air leaks at metering unit, 25D capsule hold depression - ordered : new rods, swivels and springs (missed 1 at cold start that i did myself but let's do it right) at Fred Millturn (thank you Martin) What else should I check?

For later users, I share my diagram.

still no depression on throttle 1-2 still hard to rev still bangs on throttles 5-6 and 3-4 Advance set is 8 BTDC (french onboard document) should i check again the valve clearance?

Trying to understand what why... cyl6 and 5 bang + impossible to adjust depression on 1-2 throttle unit (whereas possible on 3-4 and 5-6) and still impossible reving. What i diagnose is the former mechanic did shit : SEE PICT So I start from what i think is correct : - use nearly full length of threaded shafts so that i can adjust gaps (acceleration pedal + cold start thing) and so that the throttles can open wide without hitting the header (threaded shaft throttle 1-2) - manage tensions and springs (not efficient) - try to find depression on 1-2 unit I'll let you know if some better...

The news I just started the car after putting fuel in the tank (evaporated i believe) that was the issue last time. The fuel gauge isn't helping and always that red warning lamp even with 10 liters. I just set the advance and believe it's correct The twin choke cable redone DIY Same issues maybe that are my limits : _ starts fine when cold - when hot tends to shut itself _ revs not easily and bangs sometimes _ smells bad combustion Maybe i have to focus on adjusting the throttles? Forgive my bad english on vid...

Yes that's what i thought according to chriswitor pics

Hi Found this header for sale in France. Seller does not know which car it's from. Maybe Triumph but what car exactly? Says made of steel. Thanks for your help.

Maybe not enough fuel in the tank. But i put 15l the other time and the engine ran for max an hour. Evaporated maybe cause there's bo leak and no smell or someone stealing ⛽? Have to check when i come back. How should the gas cap look like? For comparison.

OMG; no way, i have to check one thing...

Here's what i have when 1st cyl at TDC (no firing) So... I'll take the gasket off to make sure what it figures when 6th is at real TDC.

For setting the metering unit, the manuels refer to the 6th cylinder at TDC (what the h?) Is it correct that when you are at TDC for 1st cylinder, the 6th cylinder is at top position too? (by checking to the marks on the wheel balancer)? Is there a trick knowing the 6th cylinder at TDC with the valve cover on place or must take it off?

I had a great impression about the Mintex 1144 (Scirocco GT 79). Had to warm a little but then, very much grip and enduring (when you know VW brakes from that times... great deal ! ). On the other hand, pads vanishing relatively fast (compared to genuine).

I did the metering unit correct setting yesterday, 😅 but as i tried to fire up, no spark nore ignition : once again the rotor arm broke! > The one that was on the car initially is partially defect, and now 2 new broke! May the ignition cap be faulty like ovalization? The more i do things, the less it's easy to start the car, come on...😠 I also checked the brakes system, (seems rear breakes had issues when i tried 2 months ago. Itseems i have to bleed it completely because no fluid at the rear, not enough in brake fluid reservoir. After cleaning the rear systems seemed quite recent and good 😀(hoses, drums, shoes and cylinders). So i will not replace till the french MOT (which i hope, will be soon). 😅 Next by priority : - make this old lady run (didn't i write this already long time ago?) - refurbish french vintage alloys and get tyres - get the 2nd hand stainless steel exhaust line i spotted 300 Kms (delivery impossible)

Yes i did maintenance, but unfortunately, no Triumph/Lucas experts aroud. I will re-read the settings ops on a doc I found (check through a outer fuell line from the metering if i remember...)

Well, half effective. 😅 I turned the clamps the right way... and used a sealer that i already had (LOWAC Perfect seal N4) I think there's no more air leak at the admission (from 10 sec run test). An here come the troubles... the engine choked... and then impossible to fire up again... now the engine seems flooded. If it fired up before with too much air (leak), maybe now it's lacking air when cold? I had a look at the entire butterfly system, to adjust at sight and put the plenum in place again, but no change. i'm leaving home for a week, let's try next week... 🤨 RESTAGRAF_3112.webp