frenchiemk2

mixed issues is the worst to progress... Fueling : I' m about to purchase a fuel pressure gauge tool kit to check if the fuel pressure is correct upstream the metering unit (i think it's way too low pressure). Electric : Also purchasing a new correct 25D EI module here in France, not too expensive to see if there's a difference. Plus buying check coils/spark tools to see problems when trying to fire up the engine alone. When it will stop raining i'll check all this. + I only have the Haynes diagram for pi and I can't figure out what are those wires around the ballast : - White plain = switch key contact, right? - White/yellow or orange goes to the solenoid (according to Rob), - what is the white/grey?

Ok guys here's the news : won't start Chris Witor sent me a Pertronix EI ref LU-166A BUT the car has a 25D6 distributor. LU-166A (ou 9LU-166A for Pertronix II ) meant to fit D22 I searched and found that the correct EI might be 9LU-162A (Pertronix II ) for LUCAS 23D6, 25D6 Could this explain why it does not start?

Thanks, 1st i'll use some good 20w50 the time to see how the engine behaves... then i'll try Valvoline, yes we can find here.

Ok Guys, do you have any recommendations about maintenance and modern fluids : according to Haynes, - oil should be 20W50, maybe have a test a while with this spec - Breakes fluid should be SAE70R3 but i think modern DOT4 be a good fluid replacement - Cooling fluid : old school water + antifreeze or modern and which one for internals preservation? Thanks.

Yes maybe i saw one. I'll check.

Next job to be done

Alright guys. Today i had time, weather and energy to have a look. I put the connector on the alternator (not put the 3rd middle brown one for now as i'm not sure why it should or not be connected there). I tried to get 1 plain white but there's not any. So i started with the new ballast resistor. At one side i connected the white/grey + red to EI and at the other side, i connected directly to + coil. There i have 9 volts on white/grey and 4.6 volts on the other side. I have 3 lights on dash and starter and fuel pump. If i remember, i had that white/yellow that should or not be connected to the black actual (replace) at the upper ballast connector? Alone at home i can't check if there's spark or not but as i don't have fuel neither, i'm going to renew it first to give it all chances to crank

Thanks a lot. I'll figure out the C option when i'm back.

Ok. The former wiring was correct to the + except the red coming from E.I. Maybe connect like fig B but there's no large white from harness to the ballast. So may i try directly to any large white from harness? I will do this mods maybe after chistmas times because mom and dad need care. So i won't be around my Pi for a while. Thanks a lot.

As a reminder i have a Petronix ignitor LU-166A which may work with my actual hi perf coil Petronix40001 (which is 1.5 ohm). So if i get it clearly the ignitor may work with the ballast plus the coil but the wires were wrong before i got those Petronix. (I did not modify any wire before or during the processes). What i recently did wrong yesterday was suppressing the ballast. I have a new one for replacement so i'll replace it. I cut the black tape on top harness and what i see is : white/grey to ballast to white/yellow dual (1 to the coil and one back to harness). Maybe there's the problem. What i read from you is that i should get signal from that white/grey to the ballast and then to the coil + and leave this single white/yellow.

Yes, it was a nice shiny one, Buyer's must be happy (even with fees)

Help proceeding on the forum's technical questions : ELECTRIC THREAD ON OTHER PAGE OF THE FORUM

Thanks all for your help. SUMMARY Is the connector in picture 1 a three-way with the brown/yellow wire connecting two of them? The connector is only this side, no interface connector. So i have 1 brown to none + 1 brown/yellow loop to none and a former brown? cut to none If so, you have an early car with the loom for a 15ACR which has been hacked around converted to suit a later 17ACR type alternator. To complete that job properly, to Matt's satisfaction, you should move the brown wire from that connector to the third terminal of the alternator (and ideally replace the three individual Lucar connectors with the later type alternator connector). Mind you, it's only a "normal size" wire so doing that doesn't give the full benefit Matt would like. OK, it's a 72 PI french reg. Thanks for links, it's a 3 pins 2 large/1 small What actual colour is the wire to the coil +ve? It looks yellow in that photo; you want a plain white one. Have you checked the voltage on it? After check, it's a white/yellow to the + of the coil. + the wires that were connected to the ballast were white/grey to White/yellow X 2 as seen in picture

OK, i realized yesterday that i did not remove or bypass the ballast resistor 😕 . Now the Petronic ignition might be burnt. Since yesterday, the fuel pump stopped running. Today nothing happened at the key (batteries OK). And yes there'a fuse and a relay at the back of the car. Now, i took 2 pics to show the detail of the wires I hope you can see what's wrong (i took the green to pin onto the water temp on the waterpump housing, is it correct?)/ 1st pic, you can spot the 2 wires matching nothing 2nd pic, details of the wires nearby the alternator

The benefits i'd expect now is a runner because i never drove this car. 😄 I got it with the head dismanteled, stored for more than a decade. So in the first step, i'd like to enjoy it and give me time on 2 other projects (Audi). But you're welcome for any link for a "simple" setup.

You can read the hole story here MAIN THREAD As the electric distributor was a mess i put a Petronix electronic ignitor in, that's why black a red wire, also put a new coil. area 1 : only 2 wires, is that OK? Area 2 : on one side 1 brown and 1 brown/yellow but no wires at the other side?

Only for the restart period. I'll put the genuine box and filter later

tried again today, as i connected the all fuel line. Nothing new, Pump turning and getting the fuel in pression clock ticking and that's all 2 batteries (12.5v each), no change just 1 second i had the ignition switch red light, but gone as far it came. So there's an electric problem, but it's not the battery. It seems rhere's no fuse for that so can't be the problem. 🙄

Fresh news (freezing outside). New fuel line assembly completed today. No leak (for today). Issue : Can't turn or crank - fuel pump turning and line is getting in pressure - no ignition light (no gauges pin moving) but clock ticking no nothing but 1 time i had the ignition light for a sec (the day we tried to make the first turn, we had all indicators and starter motor engaging, it's a moment later that Something failed). If anyone has an idea or an hint, would be cool.

Hi! that's kind of you. Yep 2 month problems with work and my aging dad, so much time involved elsewhere and far from home. I've just ordered refection seals for the metering unit from C.Witor 😉 in order to progress because renewing the injection linkage in this Lucas/Bosch mess is quite special... after replacing injectors, renewing the old ones and new seals, there still was only a spray on 1st cyl and just leak on 2 others. The car stayed 14 years stored in a garage... The guy i know hadn't time to finish the fuel linkage from tank to main line, but i'll send him a message tomorrow. Te other problem is before that i tried to fire it up but tere was no spark whereas all electric distribution is new (upgrade electronic unit).. As a summary now : - 6 new or cleaned bosch injectors - 6 new injectors seals - unfinished linkage for bosch fueling system - seals for metering unit ordered (so, i'm gonna take it out of the car and read about the maintenance while waiting the parts) - still this spark problem to fix (could it be linked to switch, because when we tried to, at the end the all ignition failed) I'm close to make it run, but i recon i'm a bit exhausted. I'd like so much to ear it and drive a while!

Sold 3200€

https://www.catawiki.com/fr/l/61540067-triumph-2000-tc-no-reserve-1976 Red burgundy 2000 TC in Germany LHD with italian plates Triumph(Plus de lots) TYPE DE MODÈLE 2000 TC - NO RESERVE ANNÉE 1976 LOCALITÉ Allemagne CARROSSERIE Limousine(Plus de lots) KILOMÉTRAGE AU COMPTEUR 51548 km

I've seen the Nissan on a mk2 very gorgeous and as if made for this car. So.maybe going on them less than 200€ with only cosmetic work to do on them. I keep genuine wheels of course. But focused on the car becoming a runner...