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irish44j

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Everything posted by irish44j

  1. the new tires came in today. Not alot of selection in the small sizes for these cars, but the upside is that you can get a reasonable-performing tire for a whopping $30/tire  :X These will do the job until I upgrade to a 14x6 wheel over the winter and a more aggressive tire.. as you can see in the background, also coming along on some of the bodywork, paint, and interior. A full-car new carpet set also came in, but that won't go in until I get some of my soundproofing/heatshielding material installed. Most of the interior will be getting b-quiet soundproofing...basically dynamat made in Canada and waay less expensive. Thanks to Andre's excellent site for that tip....
  2. ^^^ yeah, that makes more sense than my reason!!!
  3. rotoflex wrote:Why is your coil on the bulkhead? Where'd you get the stub stacks for the carbs? What that with the red metallic band around the wiper motor? Why don't you get sbarc to find you a radio? Where is the intake manifold vacuum line going? Whey don't you like the back of your car to look like a harmonica? slow down chap! - coil is on the bulkhead because....ok to be honest because I've seen alot of GT6s with it there and thought it looked good. I imagine that it also maybe a little bit helps the weight distro, getting everything away from the front of the lump (the battery will go to the rear eventually) - stub stacks came with the carbs that I bought off a local GT6er who changed to PI. Also have the really big stacks (posted a pic farther up this thread). I can check where ge got them, but I'm thinking Triumph Tune perhaps? - the red band is just the stock metal band. It was pitted and rusty so I didn't want to paint it with silver where all the pits would show up. So I used some dark red pearl stuff that hides the pits :) - I have the original radio, which will be mounted in the original spot. I might remove the "guts" and just put the faceplate there, and mount a modern radio head unit elsewhere (hidden) - The IM vac line isn't going anywhere right now...it's just blocked off. Trying to decide whether to keep the crankcase breather or re-install the silly diaphram emissions valve thing (I don't have emissions inspection for this car) - I'm thinking of adding two more tailpipes :)
  4. btw, I meant "starter" 3 posts up, not "alternator" referring to the Nippondenso unit..
  5. booley wrote:hope you took advantage of the $25 rebate program optima is running right now.... sure did ;) Actually they were out of the coupons, so I have to go back tomorrow once they get some from another store :)
  6. The wiring is more or less done (a few loose ends to tie up, but nothing significant), and I picked up a new battery today. Got an Optima Red Top (25 series), which has some serious cold cranking power (which this car needs!). After hooking everything up I did a few quick tests. Not much to test yet since most of the lighting is not installed yet, so I tested the windshield wipers and also a quick hit of the new starter button to click the solenoid and make sure its getting power... I think, though, that I might junk the original Lucas alternator, which takes alot of power to crank, and switch to a NipponDenso unit (from the 1989 Isuzu Trooper) that supposedly is a direct bolt-on. Also installed the gas tank and finished running all fuel lines. And hung the rear section of the exhaut....man I hate the 4 tips. That will be remedied as soon as I can drive the car to a muffler shop!
  7. doesn't seem too bad, there are a few videos on youtube of GT6s with that exhaust (the guys misspelled it "Manza" in the title). Sounds almost like a Harley, actually, lol.. Loud exhaust drowns out all the body rattles, haha. I have other cars to drive if I want peace and quiet!
  8. more done today: - put oil in the engine and Redline MT-90 into the transmission - did about 50% of the wiring for the car (fun fun) including all engine bay wiring and most of the dash wiring. - installed part of the dash (it's not pretty, but I'll make a nice new one this winter) - finished the "stuff" on the engine firewall platform (clutch/brake MCs, new cable throttle setup, relocated coil, installed starter solenoid - ordered an Optima Red Top battery, new carpeting, and new weatherstripping for the entire car (and some other parts) - test-fitted transmission tunnel and dash center console/radio bracket - the new exhaust arrived. I would have liked one of the stainless setups, but with the exchange rate (GBP/$$) that will happen at another time. I went cheap and just picked up a Monza straight-through setup. I plan to cut off the dual tips on each split and just have single chrome finishers, one on each side... also started prepping the engine to start...fluids, opened up the plug holes and sprayed some liquid wrench into the cylinders and throughout the day slowly turned the crank by hand. Turned over easily and smoothly, I'm happy to say! AND....drove up to Annapolis to pick up a NOS cylinder head that I got for an absolute steal! Over the winter this will go to the machine shop for some...er..."modifications" including a shave  8) For the time being I will keep the original (all stock) head on the car while I get it running. all in all, a productive day! the engine bay with more stuff installed the interior at the moment. Before you ask...yes, most of the floorpans are fiberglass. This car once had terminal rust and drastic measures were taken. Now I never have to worry about that again! And since this will be a "fun" car and occasional racer (no concourse) I'm not real worried about "authenticity." i'lll look the same under the carpet :) the exhaust new engine head, still in the original cosmolene wrapping
  9. some new pics. Made some progress over the last week: finished off the driver's side door sanding, priming, and installing new window runnrs and weatherstripping installed windshield frame with new seals, etc... as some may remember me saying earlier, at some point about 20 years ago the metal dash backing frame was cut out of the car (don't ask me why...). So, I had to replace it using the frame cut out of my parts GT6. I was going to weld it in, but as it turns out using several through-bolts seems to work fine (and will allow me to take it out if I ever need to). I may eventually weld it, but don't have the equipment right now.. did a few other things, but the interior still needs a ton of work overall, it's starting to look like a car again! the great black fleet...
  10. took out the engine mount shims today and raised the hood to the highest setting on the front hinges. As of right now with the SUs the hood closes and latches fine, but there is only about 1/8" of clearance with the top of the dashpot on the front carb at the moment. I'll probably cut down the top another 1/8" or so and that should be enough. Also hooked up the new throttle pedal (From a Mk3) and cable (from a Toyota) and everything moves smoothly, so very happy about that! Happy Independence Day from you blokes! :) j/k
  11. timbancroft61 wrote:I don't think you will have any space to lower the engine, it would sit on the steering rack. I think Dolly Sprint dashpots are necessary. The car is starting to look good. there is almost 1 inch of clearance between the oilpan and steering rack right now...so I'll see what happens and go from there!
  12. Did some minor sanding and installed the bonnet again so I can really start the bodywork. Also put on one of the doors (still need to rebuild the other one). The two doors and bonnet are off my donor GT6 (which was originally dark green, then blue, then white, then silver judging by the paint layers) The black sections are just to prevent rust spots from getting worse until I get to them... As had been predicted here, the front SU carb is a bit too tall and is hitting the hood, so I'll have to take the shims out of the engine mounts to get an extra 1/2" or so hopefully. If that doesn't work, I'll either get Dolly Sprint tops or will cut the front down just a bit. Also today picked up a new throttle cable for the Mk3 accelerator that I'm switching to. Got the cable off a Toyota Tercel at a junkyard and it looks like it will work perfectly. Might have to shorten it a bit, but we'll see how I decide to route it. Here's with the front left spring seats at the lowest (slammed) setting. And keep in mind it's this low without any interior/seats/bumpers. Clearance is tight, very tight. Should be better after I adjust the camber up front to more negative. Also will raise it up about 1 1/2 inches once I get closer to the car being ready to drive... keep in mind here that the hood still is about 1" open (sitting on some towels to keep it off the carb top).....
  13. rotoflex wrote: Remember black absorbs more heat... that's why I'm switching the INTERIOR from black to tan ;)
  14. yeah, I always think about Neil Roll's GT6, very very nice color...and everything else about it.
  15. not sure...it was originally saffron, but I really dislike that color. I'm thinking of going with a semi-gloss or matte black, actually....my wife wants it some kind of dark blue.
  16. sbarc wrote:I envy you......I'm mired in re-landscaping my backyard......I spent a bunch of money today on inground sprinkler system parts.   I have a large forest in my backyard. I am no stranger to landscaping, and an EXPERT at raking millions of leaves and laying mulch!!! I had to take a break from the GT6 and buy my wife a new car this weekend. it will eventually be used to tow the GT6 and trailer when I go to the track, perhaps... the entire stable (GT6 behind in the garage)
  17. well, the mk3 throttle pedal/linkage should be here tomorrow, so I can hook it up, do a bit of wiring, and perhaps prep the engine to fire up in the next week or two!!
  18. nige wrote:that is a work of art mate. Off topic.. but isnt it great that in USA suburbs trees are left to grow. seems in the UK we are for ever chopping them dowm under council laws or homeowners bang on about a lack of light or subsidence..   yeah, this area (fairfax county, va) is pretty strict about NOT clear-cutting trees. My neighborhood is about 25 years old and has some big, big trees. Plus behind my house is bout 50 acres of woodland in a drainage/stream area, so it can never be cleared or built on. the downside is in the autumn. I spend ALOT of time raking. And I mean ALOT. Here's the back (except it has grass now, haha)
  19. Gt6s wrote: You will need to either use Dollomite Sprint dashpots on those carbs or shorten the front carb, as tiggrr1 says clearance on the front carb is an issue. However not by very much, the thread on the inside of the dashpot runs down a fair bit meaning the dashpot can be shortened, but remember to shorten the piston rod and the damper tube by the same amount. You dont need to shorten both carbs only the front one, this is the same arangement used on my own 2.5 Sixfire so I know this works. do you have a photo of how you shortened it? Cutting at the top, or the bottom?
  20. timbancroft61 wrote:I am worried that those air filters may foul the bonnet? they came with the carbs. If they foul, I'll get different ones. Eyeballing it, they may fit, but it will be close.
  21. Had a good weekend on the car. Friday: The chassis and suspension are now complete! Saturday: Had a couple buddies over and put the body back on!!! Sunday; Rolled it back out to do some sanding and cleaning. I sometimes forget just how tiny the GT6 really is.. Installed some new brakes: Wilwood superlites + 12.6" 2-piece coleman rotors with a custom-made aluminum hat. (heh...not really, those are on my maxima) Cleaned up the dash front and upper engine "shelf" - the yellow is the car's original color
  22. honestly, I just want it for looks. the skinnes are just way too far in there and not nearly flush enough with the fender lip, in my opinion. It has always annoyed me. (by the way, my GT6 will see a good bit of autocross duty, so I would think that slightly beefier rubber in the rear would assist with traction powering out of corners.)
  23. beautiful GT6 - I am interested in this discussion as well - I want to go to 14" wheels (perhaps 5.5" front and 6" rear) - I don't mind stagger since I don't need to rotate. I also want to know what will fit well in terms of offset for those widths (I cut out the Mk2 inner shock mounts on the wheel well, so I have more room - I use the rimmer extensions)
  24. making some more progress. Got the pertronix installed in the distributer, installed new plugs and wires and coil, a few bits to finish off the cooling system (routed without the heater for the moment). Also installed a new (used) crank pulley with Steve Downing's fan eliminator, cleaned up the old alternator (hope it works) with new serpentine belt, found a NOS oil filter element for the old filter setup until I get a spin-on adaptor. overall, i'm 95% of the way to firing up the engine. Still need to install the old starter (will upgrade to a gear-reduction soon enough), set up the ignition circuit, and a temporary fuel source until the body and fuel tank are on. Before startup (maybe later this month) will use an engine primer to prime the cylinders/seals/bearings. Anyhow, a few more pics since I like pics! my helpers are too busy watching TV, so I had to do all this myself!
  25. lol, I meant how you had it routed at the carbs :)
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