Perfect 65
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I bought one off ebay just like that - seems to work ok. The shinier the better for retaining heat, just like old fashioned kettles used to be. Shaggy dog story - Some cars (Vauxhall Astra with pump on the cam box was one) used to have a fuel return from the pump so it was always circulating and kept the pump cool in traffic. Down side was when the pump efficiency dropped with age there was not enough flow for feed and return so the engine died anyway. Cure when pump was weak was to shut off the return or get a new pump. The pipework had a tee piece with unequal legs so the carb got the major flow when needed.
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4359 wrote:My 1500 Spit has a diaphragm clutch I believe. The car has been off road for a few years and when I filled and bled out the clutch system using all new parts on the hydraulic side it was stuck. I chocked the pedal overnight and next day it eventually freed up. It now works ok up to a point with gears sliding in and out silently but there seems to be quite short travel from floor to 'bite'. Is this a characteristic of the diaphragm clutch? - Dave Ps. just read another thread and there was mention of 2 different piston sizes for the slave cylinder. Could I have received the wrong slave when I purchased my parts? Just found the info on slave cylinder piston diameter on Rimmer Bros. parts list - the 1500 with diaphragm clutch has a 7/8" diameter piston. When I next get to the car I will run through all the tips gleaned here and check the slave cylinder piston diameter. However, if I have the wrong slave, ie 3/4" piston, the lift would be greater and not less so I dont think mine is wrong. Also, bleed nipple is at the top.
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Yes got pedal spring in place and had a look for some reference to piston size in the threads, other than there are two different diameters, but no joy. So many threads but no actual piston size. Would like to eliminate this possibility while carrying out the other checks I have read about on this site. Could also be a small amount of air in the slave after bleeding due to inclination of the engine - will check this also. Regret ditching or mis-laying the old slave to use as a comparison. Thanks for your comments so far.
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My 1500 Spit has a diaphragm clutch I believe. The car has been off road for a few years and when I filled and bled out the clutch system using all new parts on the hydraulic side it was stuck. I chocked the pedal overnight and next day it eventually freed up. It now works ok up to a point with gears sliding in and out silently but there seems to be quite short travel from floor to 'bite'. Is this a characteristic of the diaphragm clutch? - Dave Ps. just read another thread and there was mention of 2 different piston sizes for the slave cylinder. Could I have received the wrong slave when I purchased my parts?
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Thanks for that - reassuring to know they are the right ones in the right places. I assume the reason for the lower angle on the brake bracket is to accommodate the bigger reservoir and also as this type of master cylinder was not obtuse angled like the clutch version (and brake on earlier drum braked cars)) it enabled the fluid level to be maintained higher. I hope I am not being obtuse in my assumptions and missing some other more technical reason for the differences. Dave
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Are there different height master cylinder brackets? My clutch master cylinder bracket is higher than the brake bracket. Reason I am asking is that the boot on the brake cylinder/pedal has never fitted that well and the tip of the pedal near the clevis seems to be touching it. Also the angle of the brake bracket is slightly lower. Is this right or has someone previously fitted a rogue. I suspect something wrong because when I got the car (Mk IV 1500) the clutch and brake brackets were swapped over. Dave
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Thanks Paul, thats re-assuring. I think a new brake master same as the clutch will look good and will save me having to rebuild the old apparently incorrect item. So many nasties with this car - I noticed also the previous owner had re-built(?) the cylinders and the grease around the push rod looks like wheel bearing grease to me - not the red silicon based stuff usually included in the kits. I think the silicon grease used by plumbers is the same as the Girling stuff without the red dye. I saw a master cylinder extension listed in one of the catalogues - possibly Canleys but also said no longer available. I think I will stick with two nicely paired cylinders. Thanks again. Dave
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Having got my master cylinder brackets switched and put back in the right place, I have been looking at the brake master cylinder and thinking how odd it looks being a fair bit larger in the reservoir and not laid back like the clutch cylinder. I am wondering if this is the right one. I looked on ebay and some sellers are showing a laid back cylinder for the brake but it is the small reservoir much the same if not identical to the clutch version. Both my master cylinders are 5/8" bore. I have drums all round so I probably dont need the larger reservoir. I am thinking about getting one of the laid back master cylinders for my brake system as it would look much better and I assume it will be safer if the reservoir is upright like the clutch cylinder. Has anyone here got an opinion on this? - Dave
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I have just been looking at my master cylinders - 1500/Mk4 set-up. The clutch reservoir sits fairly vertical and has obviously been made that way to suit the style of the master cylinder set-up. The brake reservoir is on the tilt as it has not been made to suit the angled set-up and that is not a problem to me although I wonder why a suitable brake cylinder was not produced. Anyway, I was also looking at the relevant master cylinder brackets for both clutch and brake and they seem to have slightly different angles of elevation. The clutch bracket has more elevation than the brake. Also the clutch bracket has an extra bracing plate welded just above the upper weld-nut. Does anyone here have a view on this? I just wondered if the brackets could have been interchanged when previously taken off for painting. ************* Just seen thread by another contributor and got my answer. yes, previous owner did juxtaposition the brackets - it all makes sense now.
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I got a rebuild kit for my carbs from Burlem systems. All was fine until I had to take the float bowl off a few days after the rebuild (cant recall why). The O ring seal that fitted perfect on assembly would not easily go back in the groove. Apparently the current ethanol percentage fuel makes the O ring swell and in effect makes it greater in diameter. I did get it back but it was iffy. Burlems know about this but there was no warning on the instruction sheet. Bulems have a technical section if you go on the website. Hope this helps. Cheers, Dave
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I did try a steel rope under the rear sump/bellhousing point but it was tricky to get a stable even lift. The picture says it all and having seen a better view I can easily make a lifting bracket. Thanks to both of you for your replies - onward and surely upward. Cheers, Dave
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I have a Haynes manual and referred to the engine removal section. I could see the front lifting point on the alternator bracket but the picture does not clearly show the rear lift point on the other side of the engine. I have looked around the back of the block and manifold but cannot decide where the lift point should be. I assume a bolt is removed and a plate attached. Can anyone describe the lift plate and where it should be attached? Regards, Dave
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4359 wrote:Will get a picture on here maybe tomorrow. Its the pipe that comes out of the tee piece and connects to the carb, about 1/2" bore. The current hose is a soft rubber and flattens on the bend just before it meets the carburettor connection. There are of course two of these, one for the front carb and one for the back one. The tee piece is connected to the rocker cover. Hope this helps explain but will get a picture tomorrow. Dave
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Will get a picture on here maybe tomorrow. Its the pipe that comes out of the tee piece and connects to the carb, about 1/2" bore. The current hose is a soft rubber and flattens on the bend just before it meets the carburettor connection. There are of course two of these, one for the front carb and one for the back one. The tee piece is connected to the rocker cover. Hope this helps explain but will get a picture tomorrow. Dave
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I am looking at the breather pipes that connect to the SU HIF carbs on the Spitfire 1500 engine - the tight bend required, about 180°. The hoses currently used came with the engine and they are well kinked and flattened on the bend. What hoses do you guys use? Is there a silicon moulded set that has a good bend on it? Dave