vraksianrebel
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Awesome well the second set of gaskets have arrived today so I'm going to try and fit the new rubber mounts tonight and see if that sorts the problems. If it doesn't then I will have to try adjusting the jets to enrichen the mixture but that might wait until this weekend as I don't really know what I'm doing without the correct tools which I can borrow on saturday
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That's basically what it feels like to me that the mixture is too lean. I assumed that this was being caused by an air leak, Is there any easy way to check the richness of the carb mixture? And if its the carbs themselves that are the problem how would o adjust them ?
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Well I'm a bit worried but only have two gaskets so would have to wait for more if there's supposed to be one either side
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Yeah the rotor arm seems to be fine. We checked over all the distributor first and other than a little slack in the fly wieght springs the dizzy seems fine. So you think the rubber mount goes straight to the carb body without a gasket? Seems weird that there's not one on both sides lol
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So new car new problems. Over Christmas I picked up a new dolomite 1850hl, the car is great the bodywork etc is really solid and everything seems to be in rather good working order, sadly the engine is massively down on power to the point that pulling away is actually hard work and far more likely for the car to stall than actually start to move. If I pull the choke out a bit it sorts out most of the issue, it's not perfect but at least she's drivable. The carbs have been hard mounted with some solid steel tubes rather than the rubber shock absorbing mounts and I think they might be leaking and letting in air, I have ordered some replacements from rimmers and they assured me I only need 2 gaskets per car, is this right? If so which side of the rubber mount gets the gasket ? And is there any other suggestions for things to check to sort this lack of power out? I've replaced and gapped the points, New condensor, New coil, New leads and plugs. And I'm running it on shell super. Oh and the timing is spot on now as well. One other thing is the temp gauge never goes above the first marker 1/4 I know it has a thermostat and I think
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ok the gearbox is out and fork is fubared also it appears to be a different gearbox than the gt6 one, is this a 3 rail 1850 box?
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well last night i managed to get the passenger seat out, the tunnel off and all the bellhousing bolts removed, the engine is supported on a jack and the box is just attached at the rubber mounts, so hopefully tonight i should be able to get the box out. didnt realise how annoying it is to get the bellhousing bolts out when you are by yourself but i managed it in the end. fingers crossed tonight goes well
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right i have been having real problems getting the car into gear. i crunch when selecting first or reverse and having to get the revs right for 2/3/4, during this time the clutch has felt that it wasnt disengaging properly and i discovered that the master and slave cylinders were leaking, so replaced both of those and its still suffering the same problem. after taking the tunnel out this weekend i have discovered that the slave is pushing the release pivot fork all the way back to the casting on the gearbox so i have realised i also need a new clutch. im picking up the clutch on friday and hope to get it all fitted this weekend. i have the correct alignment tool for the GT6 gearbox but is there anything else i need or any advice people can give? i get a new release bearing in the kit, is it difficult to remove the old one? i have been told the easiest way to get the clutch out is to remove the passenger seat and take the box out inside the car is this right? thanks for any help
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yeah the engine is from a 2500tc and the manifold is a 2500 one as far as i know, at present the carbs are in a worn state i suspect, the rebuild kit is on the way so hopefully that will help. thanks for the help after chatting to burden i think we have all the correct parts ordered to get the carbs matched up properly
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my car is a spitfire running the 2.5 straight 6 and i am trying to get her all setup properly but i need to work out what carbs i actually have fitted sadly the car seems to be made from about 400 others so can get confusing at times the metal tags on the carbs read AUD678R on the front one FZX1263R on the rear one Any help would be massively appreciated
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well i have been having some problems with oil pressure on my 2500engined spitfire, its not building pressure when i accelerate but when i am at the lights or at rest it builds perfectly. once you start to accelerate the oil pressure starts to go down. after a lot of consultation and messing about its been decided the oil pick up pipe is probably loose so i need to replace the pump. i really dont have the facilities to do a full engine removal especially as i presume it will involve removing the bonnet as well, so my question is- is it possible to remove the sump and oil pump with the engine in the car?
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well i have been having some problems with oil pressure on my 2500engined spitfire, its not building pressure when i accelerate but when i am at the lights or at rest it builds perfectly. once you start to accelerate the oil pressure starts to go down. after a lot of consultation and messing about its been decided the oil pick up pipe is probably loose so i need to replace the pump. i really dont have the facilities to do a full engine removal especially as i presume it will involve removing the bonnet as well, so my question is- is it possible to remove the sump and oil pump with the engine in the car?
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yeah i think upgrading to an oil cooler is going to be a help and i am going to do a proper flush and oil change this week in the hope that sorts this issue out
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i will check the filter conversion body tonight when i get in, if its just that causing it that would be good news.
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ah awesome thanks for that, think i have slightly less oil capacity than that what with the sump modifications but that shouldnt be impossible to work out. i am using millers 20w50 at the minute