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TimW

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Posts posted by TimW

  1. Hi Steve

    Yes and I've started from the last page on the engine section and worked back. Ben has been in touch saying he's got several more "build" threads currently sitting in a dormant folder waiting to be uploaded so he's going to check if mine is one of them. It was on the recently closed site but I could only find it with a Google search and it had lost all the pics so fingers crossed Ben will have some luck.

  2. On 28/02/2021 at 12:38, Checkld said:

    Hiya all, I wondered if anyone can shed (get what I did there) any wisdom on how to remove the upper inner steering column from the outer steering column cover? I'm replacing the outer cover as it is completely mashed at the top and have put new bushes in in prep to install the inner upper column. However I can't get the damn thing out. Clearly where the steering lock bit is bigger in circumference, but it just doesn't go through the the old bushes (and clearly won't go through the newly installed bushes in the new cover), so any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated

    You need to put the key in the ignition and turn it to position 2 which will drop the large locking pin into the ignition barrel assembly. You can then withdraw the inner column from the outer. If the lower Bush is still in it then you can use the large steering column lock ring that's machined onto the inner column as a slide hamner to hammer the old Bush out from the outer column. If you've already fitted both bushes in the new outer then you'll need to remove the lower one again and install it once the inner is back in.

    • Like 1
  3. You can't compare RAL numbers to the original paint codes. Best way to do it is take an original painted part to a paint supplier who has a spectrum analyser so that can scan it and produce as exact a match as is possible. When i had my car painted I simply proved the paint shop with the original triumph code and they still managed to get the colour right.

  4. I don't see any issues with the trunionless option. Fitted mine maybe 10 years ago. I've not touched them in all that time. I don't see any issues with the slight geometry differences. I've had it set up on a 4 wheel aligner at a reputable company loaded the seats with weight and allowed me to give them the specific geometry setup I wanted. Cost wise the trunionless are barely more expensive than new trunions,VL's and the seals. A fit and forget solution in my opinion

  5. I'm not being ungrateful and I think Ben has done a great job so far in managing to import a considerable amount of data from the original site but after scanning through a bunch of old threads most of the pictures are missing. Is this still to be addressed?

    Thanks for all the hard work so far

    Tim W

  6. 33 minutes ago, vitessesteve said:

    is this it

     

    Hi Steve

    Unfortunately not 

    That was a mk2 press car I purchased but ultimately had to sell on due to a multitude of issues personally.

    The thread I'm looking for is the one detailing the EFi build I did to my mk3. I still have the mk3 and I've made some improvements to the EFI since its build. I did manage to find it on out recently closed website and posted an update about a year ago but unfortunately that thread had all the pictures missing. 

    I don't have any record of the build other than the thread so would like to see it.

  7. Want to change all of the lower manifold studs for hex cap head bolts. The ones that go though those clamps that share both inlet and exhaust. Anyone know the length and thread size I need?

  8. 16 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

    You can use a GT6 Flywheel with a TR box. Sprint box may be better bet, check the ratios. J-type saloon box has same input shaft size as GT6

    Need to use Sprint clutch release the I thunk no or less chassis mods needed.

    Thanks 👍

  9. 2 hours ago, thescrapman said:

    Are you looking for overall higher gearing, so more like a closer ratio spread in a GT6 box (not suggesting you revert!) with the higher first gear?

    Perhaps start with what is wrong with the current ratios?

    So 1st is far too short, 2nd isn't bad but too tall for standing starts and too short to 3rd which is about the same as a GT6 box. 4th and 5th are OK but 5th isn't quite as long as overdrive 4th in a d-type gt6 box so that means I need to use a 3.27 diff to get the legs for motorway use. Obviously a GT6 box isn't really going to be strong enough to cope with the torque I have (about 210ftlb) saloon/TR6 box requires chassis mods that in an ideal world I'd like to avoid if possible and if I used such a box I'm assuming I wouldn't be able to use a GT6 flywheel? 

  10. So I have a type 9 gearbox in my GT6. The ratios are no longer suitable with the power and torque I'm now producing so I'd like to sell the gearbox as a kit. Question is what to replace it with? I'd like to keep my GT6 flywheel if at all possible as it's balanced as part of the rotating assembly. What are your thoughts? 

  11. 9 minutes ago, Clive said:

    Pistons expand a smidge when hot, and that can make the engine hard to start when hot. I had that when I built a 2.5 about 20 years ago, took a while to loosen up/bed in.

    A high torque starter may be the answer in the meantime.

    That's pretty much as we thought Clive. Doing some research though a hot engine compression test shouldn't be more than 10% higher than a cold one so I thought it wouldn't make so much difference? 

    • Like 1
  12. Hi Jason

    I know David Embery and Kevin Cain very well. David Embry is the TSSC local coordinator for the TSSC Shropshire group. They have entered the MK2 "Shropshire Spitfire" which was given to the group some 10 years ago by a local Shropshire resident. The Shropshire group have been restoring it with plans to ultimately sell it to raise funds for the Severn hospice in Telford. They approached me some time ago asking if there's any chance of them doing the RBRR but the list was already full and had a substantial reserve list. 

    Are you saying that their entry has now been accepted and if they make the payment they can take part? The car is still an awful long way off from being completed so I'm unsure if it'll be even nearly ready.. I'll call David now and tell him you'd like to chat. 

    • Like 1
  13. 1 minute ago, glang said:

    To discount a mechanical problem you could try turning it over by hand when hot and compare the tightness when cold?

    I'm asking for a friend. I should have said.

    I've made that suggestion to him. It turns over fine on the starter when hot with no plugs 😂

  14. Freshly built 2.5. Late pi recessed block +30thou, new pistons and rings, Mk1 2.5pi rebuilt head with very light skim, ground crank with new big ends and mains. 

    Starts very well when cold, won't turn over when hot. Sounds like the battery is flat but it obviously isn't. Was fitted with a saloon pre-engauged starter now replaced with a brand new inertia starter but still same symptoms. Any ideas? 

    Compression test done and varies across cylinders between 185psi and 200psi

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