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TimW

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Posts posted by TimW

  1. I've no idea what the correct squish should be but when I decked the 2.5 pi saloon block the engine builder didn't machine anything off the pistons. I was running a standard 2.5pi head at the time but I've since fitted an early TR6 head thars been ported, chambered and heavily skimmed. I don't have any issues and achieved 176.6bhp on the dyno a couple of weeks back. 

  2. Quoted from Degs-

    Hi. So I have now gathered all the parts together to do the Jones/Bowler driveshaft conversion. The Volvo driveshaft turned up today (from a nice bloke in Holland who sells them new - quite cheap !). I already have the two (short) Metro driveshafts. My questions is how do I connect the two ? I presume I have to remove the inner joint from the Metro - but how ? and then connect the Volvo one - but how ? I just don't want to start ripping it all apart without knowing what I'm doing !!

    Also, when I machine the uprights ( I am an engineer ), does anyone know the tolerance for the bore to take the MGF bearing ? It seemed to be too difficult a question for the bearing supplier ! 

    Thanks 

    The volvo lobro and the metro inner joints are held on using circlips, or were on the rover 100 shafts I stripped.  The volvo joints then slid onto the rover shaft and I then used the circlip to retain.  If you ask Nick Jones (usually found on the sideways forum) ,hes the Jones of the Jones/Bowler, he can supply you with a detailed engineering drawing for the upright. 

  3. When i first built my GT I used ford Capri vented discs and spaced GT6 calipers on standard uprights.  A few years later i changed the VL to trunnionless ones along with the oversize stub axles and alloy hubs. The Capri vented disc and caliper setup, to my surprise, then didn't fit!! In the end i had to fit the 4 pot alloy caliper and vented disc kit that canleys sell which ,other than the poor quality powdercoating on the calipers, I've been very happy with. I can only assume that this issue was caused by the trunnionless VL

  4. I had to use a silicon sealent on both sides of the gasket around the pushrod tubes to prevent the oil from 'sheeting' down the distributor side of the block. I used a paten then an asbestos gasket until I then ended up using an expensive competition gasket with the sealent that eventually sorted the issue. 

  5. I collected my new 3.27 LSD from Paul yesterday. Great guy, very helpful and a fully built unit for just under £1k can't be bad! He had the machining done to the LSD in order to fit the 3.27 crown wheel. All very tight in the case but looks fantastic. Now just to get it fitted. With 170bhp and 190ftlb torque at the wheels the diff will definitely be well tested!

    Tim 

  6. 2.0l Zetec has been fitted into a MK4 by bobbyspit. he did a thread on the build on the old site. it did involve some big chassis modifications and a 5 speed Type 9 gearbox with suitable propshaft. Then there is the EFI to sort out but i suppose you could use the Focus EFI with ECU and butcher the engine loom to get it to run.  You'll need the EFI fuel pump and probably a  fuel swirl pot.   Don't forget you'll need to stop it so a vented disc upgrade maybe an idea.

  7. If its of any use to anyone, my Co-driver has made sat nav Itinerary of the checkpoints for use with older satnavs such as TOMTOM one (.itn file). Stick it on your memory card , load itinerary, done.

    I've also put Howard Brissenden Sat nave routes in the shared folder. I hope that takes some of the load off of him 

    Also is a shared Google maps map of the basic checkpoints route.

    Google Maps Checkpoints only.....Click Here

     

    Tim

     

     

  8. Thanks Steve  8) 8) 8)

    I was given the HID kit by a friend (i have some great friends!!) The clear lens bowls were from a landrover dealer online £45 i think for the pair.

  9. Thanks Steve  8) 8) 8)

    I was given the HID kit by a friend (i have some great friends!!) The clear lens bowls were from a landrover dealer online £45 i think for the pair.

  10. I fitted HID's to my GT6 with the clear lens headlamp bowls (these are a must for correct beam deflection and avoiding blinding other) I think they are just fantastic....fitted them for the RBRR in 2012 and I wouldn't use halogens again..

  11. redoxideVit wrote:
    Drove my Vitesse today for the first time since the RBRR shaft failure.

    Works done:

    Rebuild gearbox including new clutch arm and pins
    Rebuild diff with HD carrier(3.27)
    fit electronic speedo and tacho
    make LED panel to replace oil,ignition and high beam lamps
    Convert rear to MK2 suspension and then fit Nick Jones CV  kit.
    Fit new Avo shocks and 480lb springs at front.
    Replacement for failed high torque starter fitted.

    Still needs two tyres on the rear and an alignment for the new setup.

    Plan is MOT on Saturday and then take it to the Plough on Monday.
    Steve


    Steve

    Tell me more about the 3.27 HD carrier... My 3.27 was rebuilt by Mike Papworth in readiness for last years RBRR using a NOS 3.27 carrier.  Diff went bang last weekend....... :B

    Cheers

    Tim

  12. quality HID's with plastic crystal headlight bowls from a land rover parts specialist.......ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!!!!!! Correctly adjusted and they are as good as my AUDI HID's  and no they don't dazzle other drivers....ask anyone who did the RBRR!!!!!!!!

  13. I had a tr5 cam with hs6 su's.  135bhp and 150ftlbs torque. standard engine other than a decked block.  ran very well i thought until i fitted EFI.  ran much better then ;) ;)

  14. I had a tr5 cam with hs6 su's.  135bhp and 150ftlbs torque. standard engine other than a decked block.  ran very well i thought until i fitted EFI.  ran much better then ;) ;)

  15. heraldcoupe wrote:


    It's a lot more than I do at the moment in any Triumph, but it's a better benchmark than an annual consideration - whichever comes first I suppose.

    Cheers,
    Bill.


    agreed

  16. heraldcoupe wrote:


    Year? I top up the oil on mine every time I'm doing any routine maintenance, about 3000 mile intervals max.

    Cheers,
    Bill.


    3000 miles is probably a years driving for most in their classic Bill

  17. michael_charlton wrote:
    Using poppers to the floor is not quite recommended as the small holes you create to affix the popper then becomes a larger hole as time progresses. Also if pop riveted the alloy rivet then corrodes and falls out
    I fitted the carpets as they are supposed to be, then obtained some polycarbonate sheeting, cut to the shape of the floor pan, then affixed poppers to that ,then bought the Spitfire overlay carpets and then press studded to those
    So the carpets then never ever move and then you can lift out the poly sheeting with the overlay carpet for cleaning.................and the original carpet is still in the floor and not stuck /poppered down  


    What a great idea. Not just a pretty face are you mike!

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