TimW

Busy day today on the GT6 New LSD diff in and it's quiet, rad removed to check crank end float and it was on Bottom tolerance so didn't need to remove engine. Fitted new spin on filter adapter with integral oil cooler takeoff and rerouted the cooler lines, fixed high beam and flash, swapped engine mounts over so the were the right way up. Modified the rad cowl and fitted it with my cold air supply from the front grill, replaced my canister airbox with a K&N filter and routed  a cold air feed from the rad cowl and finally had my replacement rear hatch hinge/spring mech sandblasted and painted silver to protect it, its going to be body colour at some point, then fitted it so the tailgate now stays open. Finally got the exhaust to fit so it doesn't rattle on the chassis. Think that's about it. Had loads of help from a member of the Worcester group and a couple of members from the Shropshire group. 

43 minutes ago, glang said:

As Clive says if you turn the steering away from centre towards full lock and the play has disappeared then its very likely to be in the rack.

Removing shim(s) from the adjuster will allow the internal spring to push the rack into closer contact with the pinion gear so taking up wear but subsequently may result in it being tighter to operate at either end of travel...

Play definitely disappears after turning off the centre towards more lock. Ill have the engine out of the car this Saturday so I'll also investigate the shims. Thanks for the replys

5 minutes ago, Clive said:

Tim, are you certain it isn't the lower steering joint? I had issues even with a brand new solid UJ type having significant play.

Otherwise the inner ball joints can be reshimmed (or shims removed) to tighten them up. Lastly there is a tube bush on the passenger side that can wear badly. In fact it is all adjustable, the only real issue is of the rack has a play centrally, but tight at the ends. 

I'm quite sure the UJ is OK. I'll do more diagnosis on Saturday but I believe it's play centrally without moving the tie rods 

Hi All

So I changed the steering column bushes last year and now my column is solid I've noticed a large amount of play in the steering wheel. I can turn the wheel about its centre without the front wheels moving. Does anyone know if this is adjustable with shims or the large nut on top of the pinion? 

12 minutes ago, Guppy916 said:

when I built my engine I got the local engineering guy to machine the rear main bearing cap, http://www.ocservice.co.uk/services/balancing, I live near Winchester Hants. 

then I measured the crank end float, told him what size thrust washers I wanted, I forget what material he used I know it's a soild bronze of sorts, Then when fitting them I drilled and tapped the mains cap and used a counter sunk brass screws to hold them in place as you can see in the photos, they are not going to fall into the sump any time soon ! I also remember keeping the tolerance very tight,

I got the idea from these people  https://customthrustwashers.com

I feel it's a much better solution than the standard set up, so mine are 360 deg's both sides of the mains cap, an over kill may be, but I know they aren't going to wear out any time soon, 

 

 

Sounds great but that's just not an option for me unfortunately. I'm using a friend's workshop which is also his business premises so can't have the car there long enough to do anything that involved. Nice idea though. 

1 minute ago, Ben Hutchings said:

Woah... that's... nuts. Did you get that in writing!? 😂

Also, who's coming over this evening to let me drive their Triumph while mine isn't drivable! 

Cool isn't it! Joking aside though you've got to be careful because the members need to have the exact same policy type with cherished. They do a couple of different types. Best to specifically ask at quote stage 

I'm not at all familiar with this option.. Details, Details, Details! 

No problems uploading pics on this site then Wim! 😂😂 Great work 👍

I'd always recommend the Newman PH2 cam for a good all-rounder. Better than the Mk1 PI/Vitesse/mk2 GT6. This runs very well in both 2500 and 2000. I've always used Newman Cams with their followers. 

Today I arranged some insurance cover for the GT6. Previously I've used Carol Nash but Cherished Vehicle insurance eventually won my business. Prices were pretty much the same but it wasn't until Barry at cherished told me that any Club Triumph member that's insured with Cherished insurance under the same type of policy can drive each others Triumphs and be covered fully comprehensively! This is a specific benefit for Club Triumph members at no additional cost. As I'm sure your all aware classic car policies do not cover the policy holder to drive any other vehicle other than the one insured. What a great benefit to have! 

Message sent Howard

Tim W

Fabulous Tim. 

I'd also recommend keeping the cd150's or even swapping to HS4's (I prefer su's) but in regards to the cam if you don't have the cam yet and need to purchase one then I'd consider using the Newman PH2 cam instead. It's a little more frisky than the mk2 gt6 cam but still offers a stable idle and is a very  nice fast road cam. 

On 01/05/2021 at 08:18, Slimboyfat said:

I have done a few of these in my time. Record for putting chrome trims on a late car was a couple of minutes per side (as long as it took to run the factory tool around the seal/trim).

Worst Triumphs for this are MKI Stags which had really narrow gap in the stainless trim into which to insert the tool. Even I struggled with these.

I always use a little bit of lubricant on the seal like washing up liquid so that the tool slides around easily.

 

Didn't realise there was a tool for the mk4/1500 spit and mk3 GT6 trims. That would be a useful tool to have remanufactured

The Madsprout (mk3 GT6) needs it's limited slip 3.27 diff reinstalling following it's rebuild. It had only done 2000 miles since being built first time round but the builder over tightened the pinion bearings and used a scrap crown wheel and pinion to build it so it became very noisy very quickly. The 2 oil changes I did were bright silver with the debris from the pinion bearings. Now rebuilt with an 1850 dolly crownwheel and pinion using timkin bearings throughout and a good pair of halfshafts as the splines on my originals were worn. Then I need to pull the engine to change the thrust washers. The light flywheel makes it kangeroo in very slow moving traffic so needs lots of clutching which in turn has worn the thrusts. 

Finally I've got to sort the gearbox tunnel. My type 9 gearbox requires the tunnel to be lengthened by about 2. 5 inches which I did years ago but I've had to raise the back of the box a little for my new 2.25 inch exhaust to fit which means the cover is a little short again. So remove the front flange of the tunnel and extend another 25mm should see it seal again. 

Belive there were some memory foam sets on Facebook from a guy in Europe that makes them. £99 fir each seat. I'll do my best to try and find the link. 

I didn't get to drive mine as its broken AGAIN! Should be fixed in the next couple of weeks then a few long shake down runs to get the diff run in and make sure it's all OK for 1st October 

25 minutes ago, poppyman said:

You won't get much from our group leader Tim, he's always out testing his car and going on run's.....A touch of envy i think 🙂 Just tried the local group section Tim and nothing works when you tap on the "more".  

Tony.

Yes I know Tone. It's not a section that's been developed yet. There are more important things to finalise and finesse with the site currently. It will be addressed in time and I'm hoping for more features than the last site had to offer so that the groups can communicate with each other more. 

17 minutes ago, That Man said:

Really liking the new website/forum. Top marks to all of those involved. If this doesn't drag people back from FB then nothing will!

It don't see how to post anything in the Local Groups section? Am I missing something or is it on the "to do" list?

Thanks for your kind comments on the new site. I'm the national local groups organiser and about an hour ago I asked the same question amongst others relating to the local groups. As soon as I get a reply I'll let you know 

Setting up for cam timing

Quick update

So we weighed all of the new cou ty pistons with rings, gudgeon pins and circlips today. All 6 within 3 grams of each other. Then we did the same to the rods. 4 were withing 8 grams and 2 were 30 grams lighter! We then discovered that 2 of the rods (these are out of the 2.0L engine that we are using the block to build the 2.5) we're spitfire 1500 that had the holes in them. So luckily we managed to save 2 rods from the original Mk1 pi engine. We don't have a facility to weigh the rods ebe to end so we've had to use the the rods as they are. It's only a road car build so even though the manual said no more than 7 gram difference we have no alternative choice. Short block now built and the cam timed in using 2 DTI gauges and a timing wheel. We only get chance to work on the build one day a week so more progress next Friday or Saturday which should see us install the head and rocker gear then attach to the rebuilt o/d gearbox and get it back in the GT6. OH we are also using the 2.5pi sump and had to put a large relief in to clear the steering rack today. 

10 minutes ago, Ian Perry said:

Just to say... for what little my opinion is worth, I like the look of it and much respect and gratitude to those who're working obviously hard to get it right.

No particular niggles for me as yet, though I am one who would quite like to see a little bit more sub-division of the 'technical' bit. While not suggesting a return to 60+ separate sections, it might be worth breaking out into groups, such as the following?

"Big6 saloons and Stag"

"Small chassis cars"

"Toledo/Dolomite family"

"TRs"

 That aside, all great stuff so far!

I agree but would prefer sections like 

Engine/drivetrain

Chassis/suspension /wheels and tyres

Body and trim. 

17 minutes ago, Ben Hutchings said:

Woah, pick'n'mix then. So I guess you're looking at the Mk2 main figures, and GT6 big-end figures, as it's the threads we're worried about yea? 

Well I'm sure the conrods are pretty much the same across all 2.0L and 2.5L other than some small differences for earlier rods (like the Mk1 for example) and the same as spitfire 1500. I also think the thread sizes are the same for the mains across all 2.5 and 2.0L (excluding early 2.0L of course) so I'm going with the Mk1 PI figures you posted earlier Ben as these are generally within the figures Rob posted. We managed to find a mk1 pi engine for £20 but the block, conrods and pistons was scrap so we are building a 2.5 using the cross drilled crank, his rods from his 2.0l and the mk2 pi block that his current 2.0L is built into. All to go in an early mk3 GT6 

4 minutes ago, vitessesteve said:

https://app.box.com/s/6h4mintc3s2jizy23pt1mhi08hywalbg here is a link to factory workshop manual.

Great help. Thank you Steve

21 minutes ago, RobPearce said:

The BL saloon WSM also makes no distinction between 2000 and 2500 on the torque settings, quoting those same figures for Mk1. However, the conrod bolts in the Mk2 section get three different ranges depending on type:

phosphated      38-45

colour dyed      45-50

washer faced bolt     40-45

It also quotes "bearing cap to block" as 50-65, but the Mk1 spec is bang in the middle of that range so I'd stick with that.

Well that puts the cat amongst the pigeons.. The engine is a late mk2 pi block, Mk1 pi cross drilled crank and 2.0L GT6 conrods with new 2.5 pistons. 

Thanks for the reply Rob