Clive

Typical. The car had tubeless tyres, they can be fitted. In fact ALL spitfire/herald etc wheels are like this, and I wouldn't run tubes in them either.
This seems to be a problem with numpty fitters, go elsewhere.

Besides, you shouldn't fit tubes to tubeless tyres. They usually have ribs on the inside which can damage the tube, so ask if they have tyres that require tubes! On the other hand, just go elsewhere.

Ideally timkin. NTN, SKF and others also good.
Beware the turkish/polish/chinese ones. Jap stuff usually good though.

Ask the seller before purchasing, if they can't be definite, go elsewhere.

I believe Jez has hit the nail on the head(s)
Availability is a big factor, but coil clutches are probably better suited to tractors than cars. The diaphragm type are just better in their action.

Saying that decent diaphragm clutches are getting harder to find, and new coil spring ones do turn up fairly regularly at autojumbles. Probably because so many cars have been converted to diaphragm type.

bead blasting, or possibly vapour?

I thought that or Gareth. TLD has kept a low profile for ages, wonder what has brought him to the surface?

Weren't the original lucas 27amp or something similar?

Have an add up of what you have on the car.
Lights are the big one, if 4x55watts that is 20amps approx, but add heater motor (5amps??) heated rear window (another 5??) plus wipers....
should be OK but not a large margin for a cold,wet dark long run. But in general the old cars are not electricity hungry.

Don't get me wrong, it is a bit of faff but not too bad at all. Re the flanges I believe you can even re-drill the diff/box flanges, the centres are the same to centralise the join (I have a GT6 diff here that a PO has redrilled to fit the small flanges, it is actually the pcd and bolt size that are different)

OD is WELL worth having.

No.
This is further complicated by the mk3 having a small flange on the back of the od unit, though can be swapped with a large one from a vitesse/gt6/spit iv od box.
A 1500 spit propshaft will be the correct length. You can swap a flange on the prop instead of the output flange of the od.
Or use the spit 3 od prop, but that has small flanges each end ...

I think MGF are too wide in a convertible, the extra B post section gets in the way. Same will apply to other modern seats, so MX5 etc will be the safest bet. RX7 suitable too.

Feel free to ask away!

That car looks quite tasty, though on the whole in your position it may well be best to go for something standard. Modifications tend to result in further mods and so it goes on.
Worthwhile getting any car properly inspected, the cost will be outweighed by peace of mind, and locate a good specialist for when it does need something fixing. (and the obvious question, where are you located?)

Plenty of us started with limited knowledge and ability. For some we haven't progressed very much ;D whilst others are now experts. But there are plenty of people such as yourself, who with the support of a local group can undertake a variety of tasks, farming out more complicated work.
So, yes, buy a good car, use it and go along to a local group :)

There was somebody making an adaptor so you can use the delaney heater with the smiths valve. Was a while ago, have a search on here. Or swap to a smiths unit (not as good as the delaney one though)

If you want a decent used clutch, I have a proper B+B one here that was in my vitesse for a few years, but very little wear. Yours for postage.
Otherwise I would see if you can get a NoS ie old b+b or even laycock (may be expensive that last suggestion)

I was talking to a trader at the weekend about poly engine mounts. He reckoned the cheapest way was to get a rubber type, remove the rubber (sounds like a job for some serious fire!) and then remake with polyurethane. Sounds very plauable to me.
Or alternative engine mounts? there must be something half decent out there. I got some new jag e-type oe mounts  from one of the traders. Will be using those on the spitty.

OK, just how many sets of wheels and tyres have you got?? I reckon at least 6 or 7 :)

I believe that is an expression often used by drunk middle-aged blokes in bars ;D

(and yes, have done a fair bit of "resistant materials" teaching, even a whole year part time :P )

They do fit. My project car has 12mm studs and is outside with the steels fitted ;)
Not sure on stud length though.

As an aside, if you intend using the std oval hole wheels with the plastic (or even gt6 alloy) centres, I *think* a set of ford alloy wheel nuts (the genuine ones with spinning washers) will act in exactly the same way as the std spit/gt6 nuts. Will need the lip which retains the spinning washer lathed off (tiny lip so one pass a nut I reckon) and then drill out the plastic centres to suit the nuts. It makes sense when you look at hem, honest! I suspect I may need to cut the studs down the length, I have mgf hubs/studs at the rear, and ford studs in the front.

145 or 155 13.
many would have had crossplies back then, but unless a VERY good reason, they are not a great idea.

on std herald wheels, the 145's are a better fit. Somebody is doing toyo's at about £20 a pop plus fitting. Bargain.
http://www.valuetyres.co.uk/product.php?utm_source=Tyres-online&utm_medium=comparison&utm_campaign=referral&id=80050

There is (or was) I bult one but you need one of the rare early ones that will come part. It has bolts and locking wire. The polybushes I got from Witor. That ended up on my herald estate, still perfect after about 10 years service, and probably still fine (sold 3 or 4 years ago)

New repro std joints are pants, the rubber just doesn't last.

not an issue at all. I have always used the alloy rack mounts, and for the past 10 years a uj type knuckle. No slop, no messing, the steering wheel just feels like it does what it is supposed to

The UJ joints are sold over here as (ford) escort steering joints as well as Triumph parts, so that may make them more available over on your side.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ESCORT-MK1-MK2-GROUP-4-STEERING-COUPLING-KNUCKLE-JOINT-/150874530527?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2320d2a2df

and the forged version which may be a bit too big, but I use one on my spitfire
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GP4-Steering-Joint-Escort-MK1-2-Rally-Race-/251112548414?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a7779683e

over here about the same price from triumphists.

I would trust Bill on this.
I remember seeing a pile of NOS bars at stafford one year, all with the twist. People find it difficult to accept, but I am happy that is the way they are meant to be.

I assume you mean idle at 800 (not 8000!)

But those figures are fine. I think the range is 40-60psi when running. The idle is not too far off either.
Not sure what oil you are using, there are pressure benefits to higher quality oils. If you are concerned (i wouldn't be)

I assume you mean idle at 800 (not 8000!)

But those figures are fine. I think the range is 40-60psi when running. The idle is not too far off either.
Not sure what oil you are using, there are pressure benefits to higher quality oils. If you are concerned (i wouldn't be)

The 063 battery as fitted to lots of cars will fit well. The terminals are at the back (away from the battery clamp) and all cables connect. You will need longer battery clamp J bolts though.
The 075 battery is a bit bigger, and usually a fair bit more expensive, hence my preference for the 063

in the UK they are available from £30 (bosch basic version)
http://www.racshop.co.uk/car-battery/product/bosch-s3-car-battery-063.html

Sorry, but I would want the rear mount dead central. Stuff like that can get critical.

I doubt the blue book has much about 3 point harnesses (doubt they are acceptable) but the top mount should be as close to horizontal as possible, and if that isn't possible wrap it over the roll bar (ie the roll bar needs a horizontal bar at an appropriate height) plus as central as possible. You do not want lop-sided forces when it goes pear-shaped.

MGF, landrover are possibilities for pump.
James, you will probably be fine, but I reckon a small bead/olive is a good idea. Just in case.