Clive

I can't see how you can use the original "upper" mounting as it is offset. (3 point harness here)
it really needs to be high and central to the seat. And yes, with a decent roll bar as you won't be able to duck easily should you roll the car.

Yep, the saloon flywheels are much much heavier anyway. But to reduce inertia it needs to be reduced as far from the centre as possible.  

The weight seems to have been removed over a fair bit of the back rather than round the edges (where it would have a greater effect)

I would stick to a std flywheel, unless is it a race engine (as in used for racing)

On the whole a lighter fly will let the engine rev a little faster, but I suspect that one will see no difference.

Re in-tank pump, there are many fitted to modern cars that could be suitable. I intend using a Golf one in my spitfire. GT6 tank is fairly shallow, but there is bound to be something suitable. Really needs a flat top to the tank over the lowest point, cut a hole, braze/solder a ring and fit with a gasket. I hope.

Cut-off switches very cheap off the bay. I got one for a fiver delivered, can't remember what it was from though. How about this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mgf-fuel-cut-off-switch-/271030637347?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1aaf5323

yep, white wires are ignition controlled 12V. I suspect  the pink/white on the ignition switch is just a normal 12V feed, that can be switched on with the ignition off. Nothing to do with the coil.

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Fuel_System/Fuel_Hose_Clips,b.html

Are the babies, should be available in oz. They really are way better than jubilee types.

As a thought, an olive soldered onto the pipe should do the trick. Not sure I would want to use braided hose though, I like to be able to see the rubber, and I am suspicious of braided stuff. Not sure what fuels you have in oz either, but watch out for the correct rated stuff. R9 and R10 I think are the highest rated ones and OK with ethanol-enhanced fuels.

There is a big upside to the  ballasted system. The coil will get approx 8 volts (it should run on 6) when cranking, so will give a nice fat spark when it needs it most.
The 12V coil will also get 8V at cranking, so a reduced spark.

However, the extra grief can outweigh the advantage, and leccy ingnition usually needs a 12V supply too. Hence the popularity of dumping the ballast resistor/wire.

Modern cars use rubber in the fuel line, and the fuel filters have a bead on them. I reckon a small flare on the end of the pipe should do the trick with a decent hose clip In fact that is what I intend using.
I have also seen people cut small gooves to help the rubber grip the pipe, but not so keen on that idea.

Spit/herald.
Cant remember if that is early or late though, I think there are a couple of variations...........

Ours is in the post. Honest. :)

I would be inclined to change spindles, butterflies and jets. Needle valves too if they are ridged.
And as above, don't bother with the bushes, if the carb bodies are that worn, get a better set.

the carbs with the spiral return springs wear far less than the earlier types, so worth getting those if possible.

As long as it is definitely the electric type with plastic insulated wires
http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-brand/brands-j-to-l/kenlowe/kenklm2150.html

I can see no reason why extending the wires would be harmful. After all, it is all adjustable, so any change is resistance of wires can easily be taken into account. ie you just turn the knob until the fan comes on at the required water temp.

As above though, IF a thin copper tube, do not cut.

Some cowls have rubber flaps so that air can flow out easier when moving, but shut when the fan is on, best of both worlds :)

"S2 engine came with a pair of HS6 carbs.

Keep the "s" head as a spare, or sell it as they seem to fetch a premium.

"unknown" engine with ancillaries, probably

Doesn't really matter, I thought it was about 110bhp though.
What is important is that it has the very soft "caravanner's" grind of cam, and the head is pretty low CR. And smallish valves to boot.
I ran one in my vitesse for about 8 years before I fitted a TR6 bottom end (identical except the cam) and a late GT6 head to get better CR. Quicker certainly
So the actual engine is pretty irrelevant, they can all be played with to get whatever spec you want, and the parts are not expensive either. Only thing really is the cost a a cam and replacing worn components/machining.

I am certain there are a few stags with alternative engines down under. Plenty to choose from. How about a lexus V8, not sure how difficult that would be. Bound to be plenty of ford/holden stuff that is cheap too, just find something suitably sized.

All this assumes it is difficult to find at a economic cost a triumph engine.......

id is the chassis. Rest can be replaced.

EP 80, 90 or 80/90 BUT make sure it is GL4 spec oil.

FR is 3.63 ratio. (Assuming nobody has swapped CWP after it left the factory)
3.89 are FH KD HC FD
3.27 KC

no idea at all, just passing on what the company uses.

I have always just used clean engine oil, and cam lube if a new cam is fitted (came with the cam)

Ahem. Fit a better seat. Rover 45 sem to fit (even the rears) and do turn up in levver.
I have fitted MGF front seats, £10 a pair. Need to weld bracket extensions to avoid drilling new holes, but very comfy.

Keep it clean!
double check everything (torques etc) at least 3 times. And check for tight spots as you go.
There, that was helpful wasn't it!
BTW the local engineering shop uses gear oil as assembly lube. Maybe because it withstand higher pressures? Oh, and before startup spin he oilpump with a drill to get oil pressure up. And don't let the engine idle for the first 10 (or is it 20) minutes, keep it at 2000rpm.ish.

Which car? thinking about it all the herald ones are a nightmare, and expensive if replaced with new. Refinishing may well be rather difficult as they are made of mazak or whatever it is called.

80/90 gl4 is ideal. Been using the comma version for 20 years in all my Triumphs.
Or any 80 or 90 gl4 stuff. Avoid GL5 and all will be well with the world.

the thinner anti roll bar is also fitted to earlier GT6's and all heralds and early spitfires.