Clive

Yep, loosen off the nut which hold the hose tight in the bracket, and also the nut on the actual brake pipe. Just a little.
Then you can twist the hose to a better angle , tighten into the bracket, then the pipe nut. May not need to re-bleed, but wouldn't take more than a pump or two to clear any air that may have got in.

Now, which battery have they supplied? The one in the pic above isn't "correct" but looks like an 075 or 063 type, far easier to find than the original 038/015 batteries (063 is bigger and often cheaper, bosch 3yr ones £30delivered from the RAC website)

Also the original batteries had the terminals at the front next to the clamp, where the larger ones locate them at the back as above, better (as less likely to short across the clamp)

I think the issue is with the head, and that the shallow early 2 litre head just has a better shape.
The domed top pistons were really a fudge so that the 2 litre and 2.5 engines all used identical heads, so to get the compression back up in the 2litre needed the dome.
From a simplistic point of view it seems "wrong" as you want the force from the combustion to push down, and the dome would seem to deflect that away. Of course, that is simplistic, but somehow dished pistons would seem a better idea (not possible on our cars though)

Anyway, somebody should be able to point you to a real world difference. Andy Thompson?

^^^
I think I would agree about most of that. With such an installation it is all about getting the detail right.
I am happy to be corrected, but isn't there a serious flaw in the GT6 weber manifolds to do with the linkage? All to do with the 3 manifolds being stepped to clear the bonnet.
As I mentioned earlier, do the research (and that doesn't mean just ask one of the suppliers, find people who have managed to sort them correctly. Leon Guyot, now in the USA and sometimes on here, has a set on his vitesse. May well be worth hunting him down.

Probably a bit of wear on the engine (rings) allowing a bit of crankcase pressure. they have done the obvious thing to get it to run better.

A good idea to run the pipe into a bottle/catch tank so oil doesn't get dropped on the road (can cause nasty accidents, especially for bikers, and sometimes cars)

If you really must fit them (and that in itself is a can of worms, do your research properly before starting, or it will end in tears and an empty bank account)
The usual way is to use the takeoff near the rear of the head. I think it is a pretty std thread, and I have seen iron plumbing fittings used. Think there may be a fitting off the TR6 that can be used as well. Needed to get a bit of clearance. But rest assured, heater valve is the least of your issues!

depends on the diff. dave has it about right, the later 4.11 diffs have the larger shafts with the small flanges and will swap into a 1500 diff. Please do not ask me the numbers, it has been a good evening out :)

indeed. I run a set of winter tyres (175 65 14) on maestro/montego/mgf spare steel wheels. Seem to sit more inward than std wheels though, but I doubt that would be an issue.

indeed. I run a set of winter tyres (175 65 14) on maestro/montego/mgf spare steel wheels. Seem to sit more inward than std wheels though, but I doubt that would be an issue.

Yes, if the correct offset and PCD

Nice idea on the uprights. However, I have wondered if the existing holes (or just one) on the legs at the bottom could not be welded up and redrilled. Would be easier and the lower wishbone/shock could all be on the same bolt. Not sure how it would affect the supension, and it may need careful modelling. But your idea of cutting off and bolting a fabricated section top and bottom should work well.

As to the lower wishbone, why such huge ali tube? I would use CDS steel, as used on the kitcars. Possibly steal marcus's design/layout too, or something similar. He has cracked the no camber change issue.

Use the ones with the springs around the spindles. They cause MUCH less wear on the spindles/carb body. I guess because they are twisting the spindle in the right direction, rather that crudely pulling the whole spindle/linkage up linearly.

In fact, having just read^^^ I am in total agreement. (Really must read threads rather than latest posts)

Very wise!

Very wise!

Hugh, I would follow thye advice given. I ran my 2.5 vitesse (on SU's) with all std cam etc and it was superb.
When I obtained a recon short TR6 engine, I put in the piper "warm" cam and although it probably went better at the very top end, it was never as pleasant to drive. That is the engine now in MikeyB's PI saloon, and doesn't appear to work well on PI either.

The above chappies have been there done it etc etc, my experience is tiny in comparison, but I would go for a factory spec cam. Do not be tempted, you will end up regretting it. Honest.
Besides, I expect the seller is wanting rid of it as he is fed up! Won't admit to it, but I reckon that is the reason.

Hugh, I would follow thye advice given. I ran my 2.5 vitesse (on SU's) with all std cam etc and it was superb.
When I obtained a recon short TR6 engine, I put in the piper "warm" cam and although it probably went better at the very top end, it was never as pleasant to drive. That is the engine now in MikeyB's PI saloon, and doesn't appear to work well on PI either.

The above chappies have been there done it etc etc, my experience is tiny in comparison, but I would go for a factory spec cam. Do not be tempted, you will end up regretting it. Honest.
Besides, I expect the seller is wanting rid of it as he is fed up! Won't admit to it, but I reckon that is the reason.

Oh yes. Gill is excited already :)

Mk3 spit is same profile as Mk2 vitesse/GT6.
I thought canleys supplied the TR5 profile cams?

The adjustable push rods don't appear over here (unless retro-fitted)
Check the slave cylinder is moving properly, will need the gearbox tunnel out to see though. That should tell you if it hydraulics or actual clutch itself. I suspect hydraulics playing up.....

Delco. Need to find the number, but D200 rings a bell, needs checking (could be 202 or even 204, but I am tired, and it has been a long while since I had a delco....)

is the dizzy body alloy or pressed steel painted black? Cap on delco is flatish, the lucas is domed.
Markings on both, but you have to look very carefully!

Worth checking you have a spark at the plugs. If not, check you have spark at the coil king lead. Should help narrow it down a bit.
If no spark from coil, it is likely to be the coil breaking down.
If spark at the coil, not at the plugs, could be rotor arm (good chance especially if it has been replaced recently) dizzy cap, or leads. In fact do not discount the king lead (coil to dizzy)

Report back......

very simple. Undo all the  bolts, (once you have undone/removed the output quarter shafts, needs a quality allen key and 3 shredded wheat)
Clean the diff inside, scrape and clean old gasket remains off the mating faces.
Smear of sealant on both mounting faces. Must be thin though.
Gasket in, bolts in and torque up,

However leaks here are rare, usually the seals on the input/output shafts that go.

But buy quality, not "budget" stuff.
tyreshopper has some fair priced stuff (national tyres online) and can be a good bartering point when dealing with local sellers.

Could get a set for £120, but wouldn't put them on a car.
The avon cr322 were a good tyre, used on the caterham racing series as the only tyre they could use. They are available for £160 a set.
http://www.valuetyres.co.uk/product.php?utm_source=Tyres-online&utm_medium=comparison&utm_campaign=referral&id=33294
use TY05 for 5% off....

not at all. The diff in my zetec spit was like that, still is and going into the new build.
It is the washers in some part of he diff that set the backlash, but a pain to replace. Not harmful either.