Clive

175/70/13

7" wide is too much really, the tyres will look stretched and  unstable, especially as these old wheels go not have the beads fitted as modern wheels do.

If you do go ahead measure the things that could get in your way, arch, shocks, tie rods.

I remember that. I think they widened the bonnet or tub or something? I have also seen a vitesse V6, that worked well.

However, these days you may as well use a more powerful, smaller, more fuel efficient 4 cylinder engine, plenty to choose from  :)

Hang on a moment.
I initially ran a 3.27 in my 2.5  vitesse, but after I broke the third one i fitted a 3.63, which lasted with no issues. In fact that diff went into my Zetec spitfire, and is bolted into the chassis of the current project.
The 3.27is a bit more relaxed, but not good for longevity if you have a heavy right foot 8)

My gears man sorted a gt6 box into his spit himself.
Chopped the input shaft, drilled/pinned and then welded the input shaft from a spit. He also machined some phosphor bronze bearings and generally improved the box. 14 years later still sweet.

however, if somebody were to produce a run of shafts it would be more cost effective. Should be stronger too, but the "homemade" version is lasting very well.

Saw some down at the Mini run in brighton. A std roll (25feet??) was £17 I think.
or fleabay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=kunifer+brake+pipe

Agree with Alec, 3/8 is way too big for car brakes.

Definately fit a thermostat. Too cold an oil temp is bad news.

Pete, I used hammerite many many years ago on my Vitesse callipers (it was OK paint back then) and it lasted really well. ie never got repainted in 15 years. So not convinced you need anything very special.
However, there are calliper paint kits about, have a nose though ebay. I know you are a tart so probably want lurid Kawasaki green or Pimp red  ;)

I bought a kit to space my callipers from Canleys. It came with new (longer) bolts and seals, so the bolts/seals are available. Not sure what spec the bolts were, but I didn't notice anything about them, so I suspect they are just high tensile?
Canleys should have the stuff you need, and no doubt many other place too.

However, I have overhauled several sets of callipers in my time, and the spacing episode was the first time I had split them.
I have found compressed air only works if the pistons can move OK anyway, connecting to a master cylinder is rather more effective.

There was somebody (who rallied a 2000 IIRC) who suffered high underbonnet temps, and he fitted a small 4" fan from a boat i think. He reckoned it helped, so may be a wise idea. After all, when stationary there is nowhere for the heat to go if there is no manual fan stirring up the airflow. And a fan blowing air out the side may just work.

Read a bit in the TSSC mag where Hugh Glossip wrote an article about vented discs and stuff. He mentioned original TRE's being larger than modern ones. Indeed, this seems to be the case. However, a couple of mm off the back of the hub is a true belt and braces solution :)

Bradley, I will be testing teh capri/mgf setup when my car is built. However, I suspect bias will need adjusting so the fronts do a little more than the rears. Alternatively use different callipers on the front.
I have also picked up that other rover rear callipers may be the same as the mgf ones, but have smaller pistons. That would be handy, but I have not been able to confirm the info.

Capri discs do fit under 13" wheels, just done it.
The subaru conversion should be quite easy once the details have been sorted, it will bolt into the existing chassis, just need shafts etc doing. Fitting MGF brakes to rotoflex uprights not too bad, I made my adapters from 6mm steel.
however, all the things you intend doing require a reasonable bit of knowledge/experience. You need to play with cars a fair bit to gain enough of a chance to pull this off.

Or subaru, though that is all a bit experimental at the moment. I suspect a few definitive answers will be emerging over the next few months though :)
Front brakes simple, speak to marcus or GT6s about the xantia discs.

However, from what you have said, you have nearly 8 years to get it all on the road, as at 25 insurance will be possible ;)

Hmm, 3 1/2 hr drive, but very tempting......may be in the toledo again though the way things are going.
Will check with the boss and report back.

Dave Pearson, the chief honcho/owner......
Easily bribed with a packet of pork scratchings. Apparently.

I suspect that table is referring to the rotoflex mk2-3 models, and has ignored the late swing-spring version. I believe that had the main leaf extra thick? not sure about the other leafs.

Buy the best parts you can, it will be a much better bet and less grief long term.
I reckon about £150ish in parts, and if the oil pump was OK, I would just fettle it a little. I have never replaced an oil pump.
You never know, bargains do turn up, there were a few sets of bearings and rings (I suspect mainly 4 cylinder) at the TSSC show in Leatherhead today, and worth looking at ebay. Otherwise try the various suppliers.

What do you want to do during the rebuild?
I would be inclined to fit new big ends and mains, plus thrusts (you may be able to squeeze an extra 5 or 10 thou in too, worth a try)
Hone the bores, new rings.
Use a payen gasket set if possible. Check the oil pump, it may respond well to a little work to remove scoring and so on.
And a good clean inside :)

Rob, Bill's place is in the country. A few neighbours, plenty of space everywhere though.
Nice and warm in the summer too 8) and a snowplough for the winter. What more could you want?

And it sounds pretty OK. Well, seemed to on the video. Marvellous news :)

Propshaft will ned changing if it is the single rail box. A vitesse non-od should do the trick. However, it will need a change of prop flange at the diff end. OR fit your existing gearbox, but that needs either your existing flywheel redrilling (easy enough at home) OR use the 1500 flywheel and the "adaptor" clutch plate. Talking of which, not sure which starter you use with the MG engine, but I suspect the same as the herald?
However, I would suggest it really needs an overdrive or a swap to a longer diff to make use of the 1500 torque. My old herald was a 1500 od with the std diff, I liked that como. Currently a toledo with 1500 and od plus 4.11 diff. There is a pattern.....
without the od (or 3.63 diff) it will be unhappy on the motorway.

BTW I would, for simplicity, fit the herald exhaust manifold and system, save any grief.

I suspect the way forward (and being cheap) is to get friendly with a local tyre place. nab a set of quality, but worn tyres when they come off a customers car. In fact they may be rather pleased as it is costly to dispose of tyres. (but joe public can take a few to the local tip :) )

Any news on the finals yet? May need to re-arrange the paper round Sunday morning ;)

Tim, I only have to worry about one of them ;D ;D

I am very tempted to bring a frying pan and start a hot-dog stall ;)