rolallan
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Is it worth mentioning to have the heater switch fully out? If it's a fully dry system, it might be an idea to raise the front of the car to give the air a reason to exit the system.
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For reference, it's a right hander alternator rotated by 90 degrees to get to the top bracket. For further reference, if you take the front bit off when you spin it around be very careful when putting it back in as it will snap the now exposed brushes clean off. Either push the brushes back into the housing or take them out, turns out that is very easy. Luckily the brushes on the old alternator were good enough to transfer over.
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I may take the cowards way out and pop down to a local garage and see if they can whizz it off for me. Every time I try fear something may break. That something might be me. I'd love a compressor but simply don't have the space, at this time. One day perhaps.
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Thanks for the idea. I'll have another crack at it tonight, otherwise i'll have to resort to replacing the pulley and fan as I'm off to Wales for along weekend in a week and I really had hoped this five minute job was the last preparation work I would need to do. Cheers.
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Evening all. Today I received my lovely shiny new recon alternator, but without fan and pulley. Not a problem, thinks I, that'll be a five minute job, no worries. It's not a five minute job. So, an hour later, after I sat In the garage having a bit of a cry I thought I'd ask the experts. How the blazes do you get the nut off without the fan spinning. That thing is locked solid. I tried shoving a heavy duty screwdriver through the fan blades, but the fan started bending so i stopped that. I tried clamping it in a vice. I tried hitting it. I nearly tried by kicking the car but thought better of it as I couldn't see how that would help and it's not really the car's fault. What am I missing. Please tell me it's something obvious cos I'm flummoxed. Oh, it's a Lucas A115/45 and Google tells me to use impact wrenches or air tools, neither of which I possess and I still can't see why it won't just spin around. Cheers.
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Hmmmm....does it work like that? Oddly enough though, I have an LED lamp for my electric fan so I know when it's kicked in via the thermostat. At around 60mph, the air rotation of the fan is sufficient to power the LED. This caused me no end of grief when trying to calibrate the thermostat as I couldn't figure out why the light was on when I was driving steadily but went off when I was idling at junctions, when logically the temperature was going up. I was much happier when the light dawned, as it were. Anyway, recon alternator on order, horribly rattly noise to be banished. Then I'll look at getting mine reconditioned as a spare, in case i need one. In another 44 years.
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Hi all, I've got a terrible rumbling noise from my alternator so i'm looking at a replacement. My question is, left or right handed? Mk2 Vitesse, from the front, facing the car, the allternator is on the right of the engine, with the main bolt on the left, so I'm guessing a left handed alternator. Can anyone confirm before I part with my hard earned? Cheers
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I've got MX-5 in mine, much more comfortable and good back support. I bought cloth, but always keep an eye out for leather having been quoted stupid mother to re-cover them. MX-5 series one are a fairly straightforward fit, get a set with runners and then it's just a set of new holes for the bolts, big bolts. They fold forward nicely and have speakers in the headrest which is also a bonus. As a point of interest, you can also get an MX-5 wind deflector that slips over the seats and is quite effective for not a huge amount of money although not, perhaps, the most stylish.
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I spent some time at the weekend reading about and watching any video I could find to do with carbs. As a result, I replaced the diaphragms and set the idle back to basics then went through a simple balancing process with two feet of garden house. As a result my car now idles nicely and accelerates when I expect her to. The hesitation has gone and I feel like she's responding to the throttle again. I still think a colortune is in order, but she's a lot happier now and ready for the sun and I've learned a great deal about carburettors. Thanks for the advice, always appreciated.
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Ok, I've put relevant holes in the gasket and it's made no difference, so not that then. I have some spare diaphragms, so I shall replace them next although the current ones look fine but are about 3 years old. I'm trying not to make too many changes at once to try and understand where the fault might be. Essentially I can cruise happily at 50 or 60 in 4th and overdrive, put my foot down and she'll stutter a bit so I ease off the acceleration and she's fine again. Gentle acceleration doesn't cause a problem it's the heavy acceleration that causes the stutter. Same problem occurs in other gears as well on heavy footedness, but not on steady acceleration. I always use engine oil in the dampers and they are fully topped up and don;t lose too much over time. Timing is 14 BTDC but I will try and set it back to 13 BTDC and I use Shell Nitro V+ whenever possible or it's equivalent. I have some time tomorrow so will try and do little things and test.
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Thanks Pete, I might just punch the hole to see if it makes any difference to the stuttering under acceleration, although my Strombergs are CD 150 units, so from what you are saying it suggests not, it may still be mixture. I think it could be time for a colourtune.
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OK, I accept this may be a stupid question, but I feel I should ask. Whilst tinkering with the car last night, I had the air box off. when I came to refit it, I noticed the gasket seemed to be missing a hole, my air box, air filters and carbs have three holes on one side of the larger hole and two on the other, one each of these being for the bolt, the gasket only has two holes (1st photo). I checked my stash of gaskets and they were all the same. I checked my parts manual and it believes the gasket should have three holes, like the second photo. i did some research and it appears the same part number, 148006, appears to have two configurations as a two hole or three hole version depending which Triumph specialist you go to, so somewhere I've picked up the wrong one and not realised. So, given I have one hole on each carb covered, does this matter? I assume the answer is yes, is there a laymans reason why as I have only begun to scratch the surface on understanding carburettors. As an aside I have ordered some alternate gaskets from another well known Midlands dealer so I'm intrigued to see if they are different.
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I also agree with GaryF, that's how I used to do it, rotating the fan along with lifting the rad allowed the bottom hose connection to pass through. I did used to lose quite a lot of knuckle on the radiator fins, though.
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I've also got to do this job on my Vitesse, is there a good gasket sealant to use? It will be the first time I've attempted a rocker cover gasket replacement and I'd like to get it right. Cheers.