Topic63

It’s good to have a debate......everyone has an opinion, it’s good to bash it out 😂🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

Not arguing with your comments and I will undoubtedly have to invest in the upgraded versions at a later date, what we shouldn’t accept is a product that is of a questionable quality. ’Some’ do take advantage of the classic car market and do charge what I would call silly money, you can easily see this when you compare similar parts that are readily available for other marquees at a reasonable cost and question why they then attract a premium for classics? I’ve come across this a few times (drop links being one such item) for example, a very similar if not virtually identical link for a BMW was retailing at £12 so you have to question why £52 for a Triumph - It’s not as if someone has had to reinvent the wheel, a difference in length and possibly imperial threads rather than metric, the machinery and initial investment has already been covered. All of these parts have been around for many, many years and I accept that as cars get older and rarer the demand drops off, cost do increase for smaller production runs however, in the case of Powertune, they seem to be the only manufacturer of this certain item and sell it on to ALL the distributors we tend to now use, so their client base is huge. Another pointer is the likes of Rimmers, they have bought out other smaller retailers so they can monopolies the market and do charge over the odds for spares that are (in some cases) sub-standard, this is a case of profiteering rather than looking after the marquee or it’s customers.

Regarding a recent issue with the quality of Drop links, I’ve had replies from most of the suppliers and sadly all so far have said their parts come from Powertune in Turkey. I discussed the issue with TD Fitchetts who are also supplied by the same company, sadly there appears to be no alternatives these days, it seems we are stuck with these sub-standard parts!? Does anyone know of a different supplier that can offer a quality part? In future I may consider the upgraded double ball joint version but at £52 a pair, it’s a little steep 🤷‍♂️

Just sent you a message Pete 👍

Similar here, always come in handy 👍

I would add that the new drop links came from Powertune and I’m not impressed with the LH drop link, just doesn’t look right after fitting 🤔🤔 They are definitely not made to the same standard or quality as the old units. I’ll see how they perform and possibly upgrade them to the double ball joint version at a later date.

I have just replaced all the front end with DuraFlex Poly bushes, all fitted perfectly 👍 My only concern were the ARB bushes but these are now fitting a lot better after some added grease.

Mine actually sit just a touch higher within the frame but still only about half onto the top door seal? the quarter light frame is also almost tight onto the pillars due to the 2 screws that attach the top hinge so no further adjustment there, likewise the glass on the other side (door pillar) is also touching at the uppermost corner. As above mine was also totally renovated not that long ago so I’ll keep an eye on the next Mk3 I see and compare 🤷‍♂️

Same item but from different supplier, all good now. some grease on the clamp brackets made a world of difference. One job I’m glad I carried out.....Found one lower wishbone bracket loose and 2 shot drop links!! At least least all the front end is now finally poly bushed 👍👍

I’ve just replaced all the front bushes on my MK3 GT6 to poly and have a question regarding the ARB bushes. I have the original clamping kit/U bolt. As I tighten the U-bolt to get the clamp to sit on the chassis the Poly bush distorts more than I would like?? Should these poly bushes distort or is it a case of tightening the clamp just enough to keep its shape (Torque setting is only 4lb/ft) This would mean the clamp would not sit flat onto the chassis rail, alternatively is there a dedicated poly bush clamping kit.....🤷‍♂️ There has to be loads of you boys that have replaced these for poly......Thanks in advance 👍

Entertaining that....Ant certainly dislikes TR7’s 😂😆

On Quest now.....rebuilding a TR7

Adjusting Stromberg carburettors: https://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-a-stromberg-carburettor GT6 Rebuild, start to finish: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6 TOC.html GT6/Vitesse manual: https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Triumph Vitesse GT6 workshop manual.pdf Factory Stromberg/Zenith training manual: https://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/uploads/3/0/4/2/3042952/_zenith_stromberg_factory_tuning_manual_-_complete.pdf Some torque settings and drawing:

Just need to ask, when the windows are closed fully on both driver and passenger doors the glass does not seem to be fully up onto the top seal? The glass on both doors stop at the top of the frame and look in a good position, the door gaps are or seem to be spot on but the top (unframed portion where the glass meets the pillars) catch marking the pillars, they also only sit about half way onto the top seal of the door leaving a gap of about 8 to 10mm. Is there a way of lifting the whole frame and glass up so that the windows close fully onto the seal at the top and not catch the pillars?

I’m a massive fan of Avon tyres, fitted them to various cars (classic & new) they’re quiet, economical and last, even when compared to the premium brands they’re better on all ratings......but that’s just me, love em 👍

Thanks, it’s what I hoped 👍

Not ever having to replace the bushes on the front torsion bar before, is this under any tension? I'm fitting poly bushes to the front end which consists of upper/lower wishbones, steering rack & torsion bar - Any top tips appreciated 👍

R9 hoses 👍 Look up Car builder solutions on line, there are various other suppliers.

Shame, gutted for you......I know how it feels :-(