Tim Hunt

mikew wrote:Tim, I think the 4a doors are similar to those on my 5. if so there may be a gasket between the hinge and the door - removal should give you a few thou, secondly the hinges into the A posts do have caged captive nuts which allow adjustment Thanks Mike. I had looked at that but unfortunately there are no shims between hinges and door leading edge. I guess I have to look for some forward movement in the attachment to the 'A' post. Tim

mikew wrote:Tim, I think the 4a doors are similar to those on my 5. if so there may be a gasket between the hinge and the door - removal should give you a few thou, secondly the hinges into the A posts do have caged captive nuts which allow adjustment Thanks Mike. I had looked at that but unfortunately there are no shims between hinges and door leading edge. I guess I have to look for some forward movement in the attachment to the 'A' post. Tim

I have a small problem on my car. The rear edge of the driver’s door is slightly fouling the restraint device on the 'B' post. I have nice even door gaps which would not really be compromised if I could just move the door forward by, say, 1/16”. I can see that doing this would not create a foul condition between the front wing and the door leading edge. My question – Is there provision for adjustment of the door hinges on the ‘A’ post? If so, and this is currently all taken up. can I simply slightly enlarge the holes in the ‘A’ post to give me a fraction more forward adjustment for the door? Tim

I have a small problem on my car. The rear edge of the driver’s door is slightly fouling the restraint device on the 'B' post. I have nice even door gaps which would not really be compromised if I could just move the door forward by, say, 1/16”. I can see that doing this would not create a foul condition between the front wing and the door leading edge. My question – Is there provision for adjustment of the door hinges on the ‘A’ post? If so, and this is currently all taken up. can I simply slightly enlarge the holes in the ‘A’ post to give me a fraction more forward adjustment for the door? Tim

Sorry, I omitted pic from 1st post.

I'm posting on here since I am sure more will read than in TR2-6 section and I am sure same section is used on Spitfire/GT6. I am annoyingly missing a tiny bit of the chromed beading finisher from the glazing rubber on the backlight of my 4A. It's some sort of T section and is 8mm in width. Does anyone have an old length hanging around from which they could spare me an inch? Sorry to mix metric and imperial measures. Tim

Not only that but wouldn't it be a bummer if we did as suggested and then had the screen go and tghen had to buy two more! :'( Tim

Car 49, Tim Hunt/Pat Barber TR4A. I brimmed the tank some time before the start and again on returning home. Fuel consumption was 292.66 litres for 2,124 recorded miles. Correcting for a known odometer error of +1.5% gives a TRUE overall consumption of 32.5 mpg. The tank was brimmed at several points on the route and this allowed calculation of intermediate consumptions, none of which were below 30mpg. Allowing for all stops, which we timed, I calculated our running average speed (corrected as above) as 50.6mph. We certainly were not hanging about and I was very pleased with the consumption, significantly better than that reported in any period road tests of the 4A. We were running with the hard top fitted, giving best aerodynamics and the electronic ignition (123 distributor)and Kenlowe fan must help a bit I guess. Tim Hunt

339 wrote:That would be Roy in his Mk1 and me in my Mk3 you saw in convoy with the TR4 over the bridge 8) 8) 8) Actually my 4A I think Tim. Having had a short burst of enthusiasm at around 4,800 rpm in o/d top I slowed in compliance with the posted 50mph limit on the Avon bridge whereupon you and Roy promptly passed me and preceded me into Gordano. Tim

I will be 67 in three weeks time and can honestly say that I felt just as good at the end of my 19th RBRR as I did after the first as a spring chicken of 29. I don't mind admitting that I had a good ten hours sleep on the Sunday night but tiredness during the actual run wasn't an issue. Tim

Car 49  Tim Hunt/Pat Barber TR4A Arriving at the start we noticed a distinct smell of burnt rubber. My immediate though was "This is pants", which proved remarkably prescient. On operning the bonnet (hood, Pat) I soon spotted an errant pair of Calvin Kleins having made intimate contact with the lower part of the car's exhaust manifold. In case you are wondering I waste nothing and when the waist bands eventualy go I demote old pants as excellent cleaning/polishing cloths for the garage. I must have left them on the engine somewhere and not spotted them when I did my final check. It took the first hundred miles or so finally to lose the burning rubber smell. As for actual snagging I am pleased to report that Dave Langrick's page 57 of the road book remains blank. Once again I completed an RBRR without opening my tool kit. We had only two slight issues, an intermittent cutting out on the approach to Otterburn, quickly diagnosed as a loose LT lead on the coil and a slight coolant leak from the rad core spotted at the Ashburton stop, promptly sorted by the addition of Bar's Leaks and substitition of a lower pressure (4psi) rad cap courtesy of Alex Chandler, Car 34. Roll on 2014 and, DV, my 20th RBRR start in the same car. Tim Hunt

I am scratching my head over this one, hopefully someone has the answer. As part of my minimal RBRR preparation I finally got around to fitting a relay for my fog lamps. I fitted the relay in the engine compartment near the battery. I connected terminal 30 on the relay direct to the battery positive incorporating an in-line 15A fuse. Terminal 87 was connected to the fog lights, both of which I earthed to the body.  These connections were made with heavy duty 44/030 cable. I used an illuminated switch for the fogs with three terminals. The terminal marked ACC I connected to terminal 86 on the relay and I connected the one marked Supply/Power to the side light circuit. The third terminal on the switch was earthed, as was terminal 85 of the relay. I checked my work and the fogs worked fine when the side lights were on. I took the car out this evening to set up the aim of the fog lights and I was amazed to note that when I switched on the fog lights my ammeter needle moved quite slowly to register a CHARGE of somewhere between 5 and 10 amps. How on earth can this be? I wouldn't expect any reading on the ammeter, since by wiring the relay direct from the battery the ammeter is by-passed, and certainly not a CHARGE!! Someone please explain, I am baffled! Tim Hunt