Richard B

Jon, the seal is in the diff where it meets the nose piece. 137346

Separate the diff from the nose piece by the 4 bolts to access the seal (BJ606111) Personally I prefer to drop the whole rear end as a unit and then dismantle on the ground. You can take the diff off separately but you then need to take the nose-piece off afterwards to change the bearing.

Carefull of the springs if you taking the dampers off the trailing arms, as the dampers keep the springs under tension.

The bearing is in the nose piece and is greased (sealed for life) 134466.

If its knocking I suspect the bearing is shot.


(Pictures courtesy of Standard Triumph & Rimmers)

Jon the bearing is in the nose piece, only takes 20 mins to change the bearing. (circlip out, drift out drift in, circlip in)

The seal is more of a pain to change, I find you have to beat it and lever it out.

Once you get the diff & nose piece off the car, allow 1-1/2 hours to swap the two parts.



Of course, if you have a lot of backlash, you might want to speak to Marcus about an exchange diff...

I have always used Chris Witor for these, he sells the OE leather pinion seals.

Probably has washed the oil out of the bearing.

Quoted from cliftyhanger

I really can't think of any other reason.

and dampen transmission vibration? 🤔

Quoted from TedTaylor

While you could drill out and tap the holes in your oil filter adapter personally I would fit a new correct 'oil filter' spec. one.  Your non oil filter one should be not to difficult to sell through the Forum.  

The difference between the "Oil Cooler" version and the "Standard" version is not just the drilling and tapping of the takeoffs. You also have to blank off an existing oilway.

Much better to get a correct one to start with.

Have a look at the Think Automotive site (purveyor of MoCol etc)


http://www.thinkauto.com/

http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/Catalogue_Request.html

Quoted from BiTurbo228

I also gather there's no gasket between the head and the exhaust header which is a bloody stupid idea. Easily rectified though.

Same as the Stag, although the TR7 has gaskets.

I was told years ago of a Stag with an LT77 5 speed.

The Stag manual box is the same casting as the saloon one. Just a longer input shaft, so should be do-able.

Quoted from Dogsbody47uk

it is 6 stud, as it should be, probably from an early mk iv spit before they went to swing spring

All Spitfire MkIV's were swing spring.

Same ratio, and AFAIK no difference in strength.

(Willing to be proven wrong)

Its an option  

Diff can come off in situ leaving the subframe. Supposed to be 40 mins by the book.


3.45, slower off the mark. But you big ends will be gratefull! 😀

Whichever you use fit a new leather seal.


or compromise, look for a 3.7 from a late Auto 2000  

No the price is not for a pair, I just looked.

There are two wings (a pair) for £375 each.

Quoted from oil_on_the_carpet

Early PI's had them too.

and GT6's

Thanks Alec that explains it, I have an 3/8 NPT (18 tpi) tap here which I have used for diffs.

I then acquired a 3/8 (19 tpi) tap and did not know what it was.

Plenty thick there to fit a sump plug. I have done it. I prefer a 3/8" NPT x 18 (or is it 19). This is then the same as all the other Triumph plugs.

That boss is there for such a fitment, presumably dropped on cost grounds as not neccesary in production use.

Learn something new everyday! 😎

I think its the little lever at the rear of 915633 & 915634


The earlier cars Spitfire MkI-III have a bolt that pushes a lever on the mechanism.


Spitfire Graveyard may be able to supply some S/H parts

I think its the little lever at the rear of 915633 & 915634


The earlier cars Spitfire MkI-III have a bolt that pushes a lever on the mechanism.


Spitfire Graveyard may be able to supply some S/H parts

Should just be

Just the two big screws in the rest through to the door, one pin (sod to get out) in the winder mechanism.

One row of spring clips all the way around the edge of the trim. Try levering the trim away from the door from the bottom first. The top row by the wood is probably tighter.

As others say on a MkII the wood is held in be screws behind the trim.



nb. On MkI's the wood screws are exposed and there is another pin holding the door handle.

I think they are also similar to Land-Rover Series II light switches

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/luca.....9RM38P#ht_2126wt_721

and a broken one costs about £150 to be recovered  

As Ted say's with a PI spraying petrol at a 110psi an inertia switch is highly disirable.

John, I had the same problem in my Spitfire, the pump was tripped out on the way to SEM and I had totally forgotten about the inertia switch  

nb. Big car diff should only be a choice of 4.11, 3.7, 3.45.

Should be a 3.45, but yes count the turns.

Could have been swapped for a 3.70 or a 4.11 (but unlikely)

Suppliers vary, but some do the manifold nuts deeper than the normal steel nuts. About 1/2" or 5/8" long (deep).

As they are brass this;

a) lessens the load on the threads (and risk of stripping)
b) protects the whole stud thread from corrosion